|
|
Post by nulldevice on Oct 7, 2015 17:16:43 GMT -5
I'm glad it is living up to Yamaha's performance claims. The S Max may be well suited to somebody like me that only occasionally takes the freeway. Stay out of the throttle and break it in by the book. Here's the right way. www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htmYeh, break it in by the book and you will likely wind up with an oil burning dog. Been there, done that, never did it by the book again. Work that motor, work it hard. Don't flog it, but work it. Full throttle acceleration to cruising speed is a good thing. Full throttle to get up a steep hill is good, a top speed blast for a few seconds is good too. Just don't cruise there at full throttle, and keep up with traffic. |
|
|
|
Post by bandito2 on Oct 7, 2015 20:37:08 GMT -5
Mototune method looks a lot like the break in procedure for a Rotax 503 2 stroke ultralight aircraft engine... The whole break in takes just about an hour and the thing is not babied, but a gradual increase of rpm & duration with several brief bursts of full throttle throughout the procedure that also get increases in duration. And there are periods of brief idle between the up throttle runs. The engine is loaded with a propeller, so it gets cooled by the moving air and the load on the engine is as it would be when flying.
Seems to me that requirements for ring seating would be similar for 4 strokes, so I would think a similar procedure should apply. I have always thought that the newer modern engines were manufactured to much closer tolerances so bearings and gears breaking in to mesh and roll till they were "mated up" seemed to be a bunch of hooey to me as well as the wearing in of those parts. I always thought that a minimum of wearing was the the general idea because I know generally that once wear starts beyond a certain brief time early on that "rough spots are smoothed out", it often only gets worse,
Of course I think the break in procedure for a 4 stroke bike would take longer than an hour, but the variation in rpms with episodes of deceleration and brief idle in principle would be very similar, though of longer duration.
Oh wow! I read more of the article... My thinking on break in was mostly like motoman's method description, (and reasoning) not exact, but pretty darn close. I think that is because of the break in I did for the engine of an ultralight I had once upon a time.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 1 
Likes: 0
Joined: Jun 3, 2016 12:22:05 GMT -5
|
Post by sam042955 on Jun 3, 2016 12:46:11 GMT -5
Congrats on the purchase of the Smax. Great looking bike. (Of course, I'm a bit prejudiced.) I just purchased an Smax but haven't picked it up yet because I'm waiting to complete the MSF safety/certification class -- hopefully by this Sunday -- so I can get my license upgraded on Monday and pick up the scooter on Tuesday. The question I have is this: Does the Smax have an adjustable windscreen? I saw something very similar as an after market product -- with the opening at the bottom and all the hardware on the surface of the screen -- and that one was adjustable (Frustratingly, I can't find a link to that one now.) When I called the dealer and asked the service tech he said it doesn't have an adjustable screen. Any help would be appreciated. Also I'm interested in the riding position of ducking down behind the windscreen to get that full protection. Are you just leaning forward instead of sitting fully upright? (I'm about 5'7"/5'8" and I've read so many differing opinions about windscreens in general that I was curious about how this one works. It would be great if I could get those kind of results without having to go the after market route for a ws.) Finally, I got these two products from Amazon to add a 12v socket on the handlebars so I can use my Garmin GPS (which I'll connect to the windscreen via a suction mount; the 12v socket is directly connected to the engine): www.amazon.com/BikeMaster-Volt-Power-Adapter-Mount/dp/B0068FYMVO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-081-0148-12-Extension-Cable/dp/B002DU3TTO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00When I actually have the bike in my possession I will post photos. |
|
|
|
Post by wheelbender6 on Jun 5, 2016 11:34:58 GMT -5
sam042955...When you get that 12v handle bar socket, do a post about it in the General Discussion sub-forum and let us know how the install went and how well it works.
|
|
|
|
Post by mikestib1 on Jul 9, 2016 10:46:52 GMT -5
I'm close to buying a used one. Just wondering about the maintenance cost. Valve adjustment every 2000 miles? That's as often as an inexpensive 150 Chinese scooter. My Yamaha R3 it's every 26,000. The 2000 mile interval is ridiculous, as is the lack of a proper oil filter, just a screen. Bought a left over Kymco People gt300i for less.
|
|
|
|
Post by tortoise on Jul 9, 2016 11:59:27 GMT -5
The 2016 Scooter Cannonball S Max entry (flyguy2) is performing very well so far.
Doesn't look too complicated . . appears to have the simpler screw-type adjusters, as compared to shims.
|
|
|
|
Post by wheelbender6 on Jul 10, 2016 19:42:29 GMT -5
"Valve adjustment every 2000 miles?"
Its because the SMAX is a high revving engine. My Buddy 125 valve adjustment interval is 3,750 miles, but it does not rev as high and has lighter valve springs than the hot rod SMAX. The valve gear wears faster on a high revving, high performance mill, requiring more frequent adjustment. I would maintain SMAX engine by the book. Otherwise, engine repairs could be very expensive.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 2 
Likes: 0
Joined: Oct 7, 2015 12:59:37 GMT -5
|
Post by meowtown on Jul 12, 2016 22:45:58 GMT -5
I have not adjusted my screen or anything. I did notice that the wind screen is screwed in with plastic screws. I went down to homedepot with one of them and found matching metal metric screws and replaced all 4 of the plastic ones. Only cost about $1.50
|
|
|
|
Post by mikestib1 on Feb 19, 2017 15:11:43 GMT -5
Found a leftover 2016 for $3800 on the road. No used ones to be found and didn't want an overpriced used PCX 150. I'm going to use Amsoil full synthetic metric 10w 40. Most Mobil 1 oils call themselves synthetic based on advertising loop holes. Anyhow while the S Max is redlined at 9500 rpm, mine will rarely be run flat out. Won't be much different than running my Genuine Buddy 170i at 6000 to 7000 rpm. After the first 1000 miles, I figure to do it every 3600. Superior lubricants and lower rpm should allow it. We shall see.
In my experience, most of the time I've checked valve clearances on ohc engines they have been very close to spec. Use synthetic oil, don't run at redline for long periods, and use Shell V power gas to reduce deposits on the valve edges and the cylinder head valve seats.Since I get over 75 mpg I buy the best fuel.
|
|
|
|
Post by cyborg55 on Feb 20, 2017 10:58:33 GMT -5
Found a leftover 2016 for $3800 on the road. No used ones to be found and didn't want an overpriced used PCX 150. I'm going to use Amsoil full synthetic metric 10w 40. Most Mobil 1 oils call themselves synthetic based on advertising loop holes. Anyhow while the S Max is redlined at 9500 rpm, mine will rarely be run flat out. Won't be much different than running my Genuine Buddy 170i at 6000 to 7000 rpm. After the first 1000 miles, I figure to do it every 3600. Superior lubricants and lower rpm should allow it. We shall see. In my experience, most of the time I've checked valve clearances on ohc engines they have been very close to spec. Use synthetic oil, don't run at redline for long periods, and use Shell V power gas to reduce deposits on the valve edges and the cylinder head valve seats.Since I get over 75 mpg I buy the best fuel. [. Good score!!!!!! |
|
|
|
Post by mikestib1 on Feb 23, 2017 16:14:48 GMT -5
One things for sure, I won't spend the first 600 miles at less than 5800 rpm, as the manual suggests. That's about 37 mph. Also I'm replacing the stock rollers with 20x12 10.5g Dr Pulley sliders. They sure woke up my Buddy 170i. Figure I'll do the first 100 miles in the city to vary the rpm, never use wide open throttle, never drone along at the same speed, and go for a lot of short rides for heating and cooling cycles. The next 200 miles I may use 3/4 throttle. Change the engine oil at 300 miles. And then consider it broken in. Will use Amsoil 10w40 full synthetic in the motor and 10w30 in the transmission as the 10w30 Amsoil is also rated GL1 for gear lube use. May do a Malossi full exhaust and maybe their variator and clutch spring. Got about 20 miles on it now as the sun finally came out. Yep, I need to mess with every bike I buy,
|
|
