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Post by JerryScript on Jan 27, 2015 0:42:44 GMT -5
I've posted this before , but the first time I checked my speedo yrs ago I drove next to a car with GPS , as they hit 50 I was right at 50 and the top speed was 67 on the gps" is there room for error , yes " from then on I went by radar signs, most times the speedo matched the signs " and im sure the speedo was off as the tires wore down to threads. When it comes down to it my speedo seems more accurate then ever " is it that the radar signs have been calibrated ? " and even with the bigger tires I'm reaching 67+ on straight runs on the speedo. I did have to drop in roller weights with the new koso " same time I replaced the tires" . there are a lot of different variables when it comes to tunning the CVT with bigger tires and a different variator . when it comes to the speedo accuracy from the results I've had its more then likely I'm at a point where the speedo is at this point 100% correct , even if the earlier results were 1 or 2 mph off the new tires brought that back to dead accurate. How many years ago did you have such bad results? GPS has become much more accurate over the years thanks to the government easing restrictions on it's accuracy, and the launch of a new generation of satellites over the past decade. Significant improvements were authorized for civilian use as recently as 2009, before that 2005 saw the first modernized GPS satellites launched marking a huge improvement for military and civilian use, and in 2000 selective availability was essentially discontinued meaning civilians could receive non-degraded signals worldwide.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 27, 2015 1:02:17 GMT -5
I ment the process of yelling out the window the GPS reading and possible 1 to 2 mph fluctuation while doing so . I'm just saying it leaves room for someone to say it could be flawed. The flaw would be in the speedo to GPS accuracy , however at top end even if the speedo happened to be off a mph or 2 I was still riding beside a GPS varified 67 mph which I have always claimed. I have also claimed the accurate speedo and posted threads about the road side radar signs and accuracy issues on some. and considering I did the GPS speedo tests on the wore out stock tires that would also be a flawed system. I like to be as proficient as possible so I'm saying this so that I and others can understand how my speedo is still accurate with the 13/70 tire.I myself expected the speedo to show slightly under 40 mph as the radar read 40mph however it read right at 40 . which indicates there was a flaw of 1 to 2 mph in the methods I used for speedo accuracy. Either way i like having the accurate speedo.
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Post by rdhood on Jan 29, 2015 16:13:50 GMT -5
First, this is the scoot that I have. It comes under the name "Pioneer 150T-7" , but trust me when I say that this is the scooter: YY150QT-7 and here is the 50cc version under the "Primo" brand: Primo . I can't find anything wrong with the actual forks, so I am thinking that it might be the triple tree. How can I know for sure? Also, I cannot find any 150-T7 triple trees. How can I know what fork will work for this bike?
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 29, 2015 16:28:14 GMT -5
Need to take the plastics off the front and it may be that the weld that holds the tree is broke from the frame. Did you run into something straight on to maybe bend the tree up on top or break the weld.
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Post by rdhood on Jan 29, 2015 16:57:30 GMT -5
I bought it used. When I bought it, the steerer bearings were way loose. I tightened them. I don't know if it was ever hit. I know how to take off the front plastic to look at the tree... I'll see if the weld looks broken.
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 29, 2015 17:05:27 GMT -5
Bummer I think you were taken and that is why they sold it. Alleyoop
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Post by rdhood on Jan 29, 2015 19:43:39 GMT -5
I took the plastic off, and here is what I found... the steerer bearings had loosened up again! The two things I noticed: - When I try to tighten the top nut that is supposed to lock the set nut, the whole thing turns. I am going to have to get someone else to hold the to nut while I tighten the set nut against it.
- The other thing is that the left fork leg is 1/8" longer than the right fork leg. the right fork leg is flush with the top of the triple tree and measures 18 5/16" from the top of the tree to the bottom of the fork leg. The right leg is about 1/8" from the top of the tree, thus making it 18 7/16" from the top of the tree to the bottom of the fork leg... 1/8" longer. I think this is what is causing it to wear off-center (see the pic).
Now that I have tightened it (again) , I cannot get any interference with the wheel well when bouncing the front end. Also... the welds holding the steerer tube are fine. Nothing is broken. I think I am just having a problem with the steerer bearings loosening up.
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Post by shalomdawg on Jan 29, 2015 21:27:31 GMT -5
howdy, i'll chime in or whine in again as the case may be. i had a kymco grand vista and am a 300 pounder. when i sat down on the seat, the entire front end flexed. i could actually see the handlebars move toward me as i sat down. if the bars move toward you when you sit down, they will move forward when the front brake is agressively applied. when they do this the front wheel WILL move rearward and that could be what is happening. of course the loose front tripple tree bearing will allow that and cause the symptoms you describe.
lotsa miles and smiles to ya ken
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Post by rdhood on Jan 30, 2015 9:39:43 GMT -5
Hopefully I have locked it down this time. I am going to shorten the left fork by 1/8", and give it a spin this weekend.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 30, 2015 11:20:09 GMT -5
The shocks should slide into the tree in a way in which you can feel when they are in place. They have the notches in the tops of the shocks.
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Post by rdhood on Jan 30, 2015 13:03:45 GMT -5
That is good to know. I'm going to work on it tonight so I will know if it is the tree that is not allowing the left side to slide in far enough, or if someone just got sloppy in assembly and didn't slide the left side in far enough.
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Post by rockynv on Jan 30, 2015 13:08:43 GMT -5
A difference in aspect ratio means that the tire is larger in diameter provided the width is the same. In your case. you went from a worn 130/60 to a new 130/70 That means your new tire has taller sidewalls and therefore a larger diameter and circumference than the old one, since they have the same width. Now this should throw your speedo off. We all know that chinese speedos are not very accurate. Do you still have your old tire? If not you can probably get it back from the shop you had it changed at (they have to pay for disposal). Then measure the circumference difference between it and the new. The new one is going to have a larger circumference and diameter than the old. Just do the math. ((130 * 0.70 * 2) - (130 * 0.60 * 2) = 26 * 0.03937007874 = 1.023622 inch difference in diameter.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 30, 2015 16:43:57 GMT -5
A difference in aspect ratio means that the tire is larger in diameter provided the width is the same. In your case. you went from a worn 130/60 to a new 130/70 That means your new tire has taller sidewalls and therefore a larger diameter and circumference than the old one, since they have the same width. Now this should throw your speedo off. We all know that chinese speedos are not very accurate. Do you still have your old tire? If not you can probably get it back from the shop you had it changed at (they have to pay for disposal). Then measure the circumference difference between it and the new. The new one is going to have a larger circumference and diameter than the old. Just do the math. ((130 * 0.70 * 2) - (130 * 0.60 * 2) = 26 * 0.03937007874 = 1.023622 difference in diameter. Yeah the 70 means the side wall height it 70% of 130 . I even posted a pic of my old tires , they were wore down to nothing . I was actually using rubber tube patches to cover the spots on the tires were there was no rubber left ,lol . So by the time I replaced them there was a huge diff in the tire height.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 30, 2015 17:59:10 GMT -5
That is good to know. I'm going to work on it tonight so I will know if it is the tree that is not allowing the left side to slide in far enough, or if someone just got sloppy in assembly and didn't slide the left side in far enough. Lossen the nuts up just enough for the shocks to slide up in and you should be able to feel when they are in all the way .
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Post by rdhood on Jan 31, 2015 16:11:31 GMT -5
I adjusted it, rode it, and here is what I am thinking: The triple tree is bent. But not bent backwards. It is bent to the right. I have looked at this for 30 minutes and I don't think I am imagining it. Here is a pic: opinions? The frame doesn't look bent. p.s. Yes, those are bicycles in the back. And I personally pressed those headsets. I am very familiar with bicycle headsets, forks, headtubes. Changing the triple tree is not a problem for me.
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