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Post by murkyapricot on Jan 14, 2015 11:50:32 GMT -5
Ok so my 150cc taotao is at around 4500km
For about the last 500km it has been idling very low during startup, to the point that it will cut out sometimes.
It takes about 5-10 min of riding it to get to the point that when I stop it doesn't cut off, but still idles very low, about 800-1.2k rpm
So I read online after it's warmed up to adjust the idle screw, which I did. This seems to keep it at around 1800 rpm half of the time, but the other half of the time, say I'm on the highway and hit a red light, it won't drop below 2800-3200 rpm, and I have to hold the brake or it's trying to roll away, while other times it will drop to 1800 and idle perfect.
So with more trials of light idle screw adjustments I can't seem to find a good setting bc the idle isnt consistent everytime i slowdown or stop.
After some research I have read about how the stock belt should be replaced right away, could this be the root if the issue or am I overlooking something?
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Post by lain on Jan 14, 2015 11:58:34 GMT -5
The belt wouldn't cause your RPMs to be high at stops, thats more of an idle enricher problem. When your RPMs are high is it after you adjust the idle speed higher? Did it happen before you started adjusting the idle screw?
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Post by murkyapricot on Jan 14, 2015 13:47:17 GMT -5
Before I adjusted the idle, it would always idle too low, after warming up it would idle around 1200
After adjusting the screw it will sometimes idle at 1800, then other times idle a little over 3000, seemingly randomly no matter how fast I had just been going
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Post by scootdoggydog on Jan 14, 2015 14:15:33 GMT -5
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 14, 2015 15:25:14 GMT -5
I think you said you JB Welded the enricher so it was kaput (smart if you did so!).
However, what you are describing are the classic "failing enricher" symptoms.
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 14, 2015 15:26:11 GMT -5
Check your air intake manifold for cracks, a very common problem. If there are cracks, it will allow more air in when it's cold giving you a rough low idle. Once it warms up, the material expands closing the cracks, and thanks to your adjustment to a/f due to the low idle, when the cracks close the idle rises. Could be other air leaks as well, but the intake manifold is the first thing to check.
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Post by murkyapricot on Jan 14, 2015 15:58:29 GMT -5
Thanks! I think that is most likely the issue where the hose attaches is cracked pretty good
So then how should I go about fixing that? Some sort of epoxy or ?
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 14, 2015 16:42:04 GMT -5
These things are so cheap - just get a new one. BTW: what's a "murky apricot"  ?? |
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Post by murkyapricot on Jan 14, 2015 17:32:09 GMT -5
Well the problem is it's not attached to the air box (?) by a clamp or anything it's like attached right to it, and that's where the crack is, wouldn't I have to replace the whole thing.
And for the apricot thing, i kind of just made it up
I have large stretched ears and people used to call me marky africa (my name is mark) and so I just made up something that sounded similar
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 14, 2015 17:33:55 GMT -5
OOOOOO !!!!!!!!
Not speaking about the same thing.
The manifold is NOT the connection from the carb to the airbox.
You need to look for cracks in the REAL manifold - which is the short curved "duct" that connects the ENGINE to the carb
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 14, 2015 17:57:42 GMT -5
Is it the hose that attaches to the intake manifold, or the little tube nipple that the hose attaches to? This is an intake manfiold:  |
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Post by murkyapricot on Jan 14, 2015 19:08:43 GMT -5
I haven't checked that yet, here is a pic of the hose that is cracked, you can see where I tried to fix the crack with epoxy a few months ago   So you're saying it's probably not that? |
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Post by rcq92130 on Jan 14, 2015 19:26:58 GMT -5
That is UPSTREAM of the carburetor and will not affect the a/f mixture in any meaningful way.
The manifold - which is DOWNSTREAM (i.e., after) the carb - if leaking will let in air that is not mixed with gas since that air didn't go thru the carb.
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 14, 2015 19:38:44 GMT -5
That is UPSTREAM of the carburetor and will not affect the a/f mixture in any meaningful way. The manifold - which is DOWNSTREAM (i.e., after) the carb - if leaking will let in air that is not mixed with gas since that air didn't go thru the carb. That is not true it will effect the Air to Fuel ratio it will suck in extra air and make it run LEAN which by the way it appears to be doing. A bouncing IDLE is a LEAN condition you either have the Carbs Air Fuel Mixture adjusted to lean or you have an AIR LEAK. Check out the TIPS AND TRICKS section I have written many fixs for just about everything you may run into. I got tired of typing the same things over and over so I wrote them up and posted them for people to go and learn how to do some of the adjustments and or fixs. You will actually find one for BOUNCING IDLES. Alleyoop |
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Post by JerryScript on Jan 14, 2015 19:51:34 GMT -5
Do a google search for airbox tape, you can find it at most auto parts and many hardware stores. Several wraps will seal it, and be less likely to leak in the future than epoxy or other hard solutions which will tend to crack again.
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..BAD TO THE BONE..