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Post by geh3333 on Jan 11, 2015 14:13:49 GMT -5
You are good to go, if the back side even the sparkplug hole are completely dry then you have a 100% air tight seal. It's a simple, easy and very correct way to know. That new head I mentioned was so bad the WD-40 would pour through it. Never again.
JR
Completely dry,,no sign of oil anywhere..100% ready to rip roar... Thanks again JR. Tom I usually park it all winter but I wanted to ride it as much as I could this winter . Your ready to go !!
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Post by lain on Jan 11, 2015 15:55:22 GMT -5
Mine was idling a little faster than that Geh around 1800,,I like it where you have it,,nice and low sounds mean.. If that thing ran this long and as good as it does,,you must have done something right I'm really happy with how she's treated me . I did run into some small issues this season but nothing too serious . at least not yet . I'm expecting to be near 20,000 miles by the end of the. Cold season Want to get an insane amount of miles like I did? Get a delivery job on ur scoot lol, it's a LOT of fun and you get a lot of good tips when customers realize ur delivering the cool way. Though maybe wanna wait for the warmer seasons.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 11, 2015 16:31:47 GMT -5
I'm really happy with how she's treated me . I did run into some small issues this season but nothing too serious . at least not yet . I'm expecting to be near 20,000 miles by the end of the. Cold season Want to get an insane amount of miles like I did? Get a delivery job on ur scoot lol, it's a LOT of fun and you get a lot of good tips when customers realize ur delivering the cool way. Though maybe wanna wait for the warmer seasons. That would be a quick way to add many miles . I've delivered food for a few yr when I was a little younger and you def put the miles on !! Right now my odometer reads a little over 12,700 miles . with my speedo cable breaking at the beginning of summer I may be closer to 20,000 then I first thought , considering I average 6,000 miles every summer and fall season of riding. I wish I knew for sure what the reall miles are . I'm thinking the highest it could be would be around 19,000 and the lowest would be more like 17,000 . either way I'll be well over 20,000 by the end of winter .
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 17:55:31 GMT -5
Alright so today it felt better out, so I attempted to crank my scoot and get it to idle. Mission Accomplished. It kept stuttering/jerking like it just wanted to take off. I think I just need to change the oil even though its like clear, but it was a little low. Help? Headlights and tail light still don't work when cranked. I put a new rectifier on but I guess it was DOA. Going to get a bigger one just in case. Help? Managed to break off the head cover valve Then managed to break off one of the exhaust bolts. Looking for a couple of stainless steel replacements. Scoot is really loud now even with the copper gasket on... Suggestions? Still no breaks so I'm going to order a 125mm drum break. (long case) Suggestions? Rode it around the yard and it bogs like crazy. Even put the stock air filter on, but same results. Thinking I need to set the pin in the carb? (125 main jet) O, and I put new pwr and ground, battery cables on and a 20 amp fuse. Is it too many amps? Is it the reason my headlights are not working and battery not charging? JR, alleyoop, Doug, JerryScript, skuttadawg, lain geh3333
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 11, 2015 18:20:30 GMT -5
Alright so today it felt better out, so I attempted to crank my scoot and get it to idle. Mission Accomplished. It kept stuttering/jerking like it just wanted to take off. I think I just need to change the oil even though its like clear, but it was a little low. Help? Headlights and tail light still don't work when cranked. I put a new rectifier on but I guess it was DOA. Going to get a bigger one just in case. Help? Managed to break off the head cover valve Then managed to break off one of the exhaust bolts. Looking for a couple of stainless steel replacements. Scoot is really loud now even with the copper gasket on... Suggestions? Still no breaks so I'm going to order a 125mm drum break. (long case) Suggestions? Rode it around the yard and it bogs like crazy. Even put the stock air filter on, but same results. Thinking I need to set the pin in the carb? (125 main jet) O, and I put new pwr and ground, battery cables on and a 20 amp fuse. Is it too many amps? Is it the reason my headlights are not working and battery not charging? JR, alleyoop, Doug, JerryScript, skuttadawg, lain geh3333 You broke of the head cover valve ?,do u mean the valve cover vent valve ? If so how did u do that ? Lol . not really funny just puzzling . when it comes to the brakes , do you not have brake pads or do u think they are just wore out ? If u think they are wore out did u adjust the brake lever arm at the back of the scoot ? You can normally adjust the brakes with the nut but after it tightens all the way you have to adjust the arm . I found that the brakes last for over 10,000 miles pretty easy " at least mine did" I kept readjusting the arm and each time I'd have to adjust the nut untill I couldn't go any further then after the arm adjustment back to adjusting the nut again . when I first got my scoot used , I was told it needed brakes . so I bought new brakes and put them in . I noticed the old ones had a lot of pad left. I had those new brakes in until this summer " so I'm guessing they lasted for 13,000 or so " and they still had at least 1/4 pad left on them .
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 18:27:35 GMT -5
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Post by lain on Jan 11, 2015 18:28:43 GMT -5
Alright so today it felt better out, so I attempted to crank my scoot and get it to idle. Mission Accomplished. It kept stuttering/jerking like it just wanted to take off. I think I just need to change the oil even though its like clear, but it was a little low. Help? Headlights and tail light still don't work when cranked. I put a new rectifier on but I guess it was DOA. Going to get a bigger one just in case. Help? Managed to break off the head cover valve Then managed to break off one of the exhaust bolts. Looking for a couple of stainless steel replacements. Scoot is really loud now even with the copper gasket on... Suggestions? Still no breaks so I'm going to order a 125mm drum break. (long case) Suggestions? Rode it around the yard and it bogs like crazy. Even put the stock air filter on, but same results. Thinking I need to set the pin in the carb? (125 main jet) O, and I put new pwr and ground, battery cables on and a 20 amp fuse. Is it too many amps? Is it the reason my headlights are not working and battery not charging? JR, alleyoop, Doug, JerryScript, skuttadawg, lain geh3333 A lot of stuff to process in your post here. Feeling like it might take off could just be a high idle, try adjusting the idle speed screw that is on the throttle wheel on top of the carburetor to see if you can lower it to a good point. To lower the idle speed twist the idle speed screw counter clockwise a quarter turn, wait 10 seconds, and keep going until it feels like it might stall out, then screw it in (clockwise) a quarter turn or two to where it feels just right. Since it bogs while you are using the throttle I would say try adjusting the fuel mix screw while you are working on the carb anyways. Does it bog at lower or higher RPMs, on accel or decel, or at idle? Provide as much details as you can. How many times have you used the same gaskets? Have you been reusing the head gasket? I remember seeing your head gasket in one of your earlier posts in this thread, I even used your image as a reference in my own thread, it looks like your head gasket had tears in the red lining, like mine do. I'm pretty sure my head gasket is causing a leak due to reusing it whenever I crack open the engine, and I've been working in the cold, and below freezing, like you and I have seen damage to the head gasket grow each time I opened it. It's safe to say that the condition of this gasket seems to be the most important, and reusing it seems to be a huge risk in damaging your engine as I feel I have realized through experiencing it. As far as the scoot being loud, that should be expected with a broken exhaust stud. Replace the exhaust stud now, don't even idle it, don't mess with it, replace the exhaust stud first. Did the stud itself come out, did it bring the threads out with it, or did the stud just break off the end of it? Depending on the level of damage you may want to just replace the head and save some time and prevent any damage. Take it from me, I rode it with a broken exhaust stud for a month and I've been sitting around for a few weeks now trying to get my arse back on the road... It may have been only a small thing, but it destroyed my exhaust valve, and I don't wanna see it happen to you too. I have successfully installed a 50cc rectifier on a 150cc scooter, both were AC powered from stators with batteries for starting only. To this day my friend says it still works for him, so it may not be a question of size, maybe bad wire or ground somewhere? I once had the same problem, I traced all my wires and found a connection point down the line had become corroded from the weather and sand/salt from the streets. Try doing an ohmz test to see that the wires indeed are all connected from end to end and that they are not losing current somewhere. Try testing the wires that are not supposed to be connected to each other as well to make sure there are no crossed wires. 20 amp fuse is a little big, there's nothing on your scoot that should demand 20 amps, a 15amp fuse is still too large I would say but a lot of scoots come with 15amp fuses. The main point of the fuse is to burn up before the wires can burn up to prevent the wires and components past the fuse from becoming damaged. If the rating of the fuse is too high it will be useless to prevent any damage. I have seen them burn up from using the starter constantly for more than 5 seconds repetitively, I have seen them burn up from a loose ground causing arcing, and they can just become old and loose and break easily too. The fuse has nothing to do with your lights when the engine is running, only to do with the passing light that runs off the battery. You should look for loose or wrong lighting wires. If you use the passing light button, does the light on the dash and the headlight lit up? If both the lights aren't working and the battery isn't charging I would suspect your stator/magneto wires are not connected or maybe they are loose or bad. Both the running lights and the charging system runs off of the stator/magneto. As far as breaks, do you have front brakes? The back brakes only are about 20-30% of the stopping power. The front brakes are about 70-80% of the stopping power and are also the only ones you should be using in the rain and snow IMO. I would focus on making sure you have working front hydraulic disc brakes before working on the back. I rode around for 6 months without a back brake, and sudden stops were still possible with front brakes only, however I did try riding with only a back brake, and sudden stops are impossible, as well as you have to time your stops and plan them out ahead of time when only using back brakes.
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 11, 2015 18:29:28 GMT -5
In the video , was it already warmed up or was the autochoke still running ? My clutch is very close to engaging when the autochoke has first engaged . you will sometimes get the jerking from the clutch slightly grabbing the bell. Also did it stall out or did you shut it off ?
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 11, 2015 18:30:59 GMT -5
Yeah I meant the valve cover, vent valve... after the video Yeah I guess this is not that low. i57.tinypic.com/1198mrm.jpgYeah , you have a ton of pad left on those brakes ! All u need to do is an arm adjustment .
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 11, 2015 18:34:47 GMT -5
This is the arm u need to adjust . you take the bolt out holding it on " well first remove the brake line from the arm " the after you have it off u will want to re position the arm a little clockwise on the splines , then re assemble .
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Post by geh3333 on Jan 11, 2015 18:36:18 GMT -5
Yeah u have a ton of pad left on them , all u need is to adjust the arm.
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 19:28:09 GMT -5
I did adjust the idle screw to the point where I thought it wouldn't stall. I'm going to adjust the A/F mixture screw like that when I go back out tomorrow. It only bogs out on acceleration at high rpm's. Like, I can only go low rpm's right now and when I accelerate for higher rpm's, it bogs until I go back to lower rpm's. I haven't been using the same gaskets, The new head and cylinder/piston kit came with both new gaskets plus a few O rings and exhaust. Yes I plan on replacing the exhaust studs asap (ordering tonight). As I was tightening them on (not too tight), one just popped off and is in the exhaust nut. I guess it had something to do with the temps. They were Chinese studs anyway. I have the right tools to carefully get the bolt out the head and out the nut. Plus it's a little exposed coming from the head because the muffler header space it took up, so I'm going to try pliers first. I found out yesterday that I had a DC gy6 so I don't know if that effects the rectifier... I haven't checked my wires like that before but it's a very good idea to do so. Thanks Yeah I thought the fuse was too big, need to replace with a 10 or 15 amp fuse. I redone the headlights and replaced the bulbs. Tail light is LED and seem to be alright just don't work continuously, only as I brake. All four turning signals seem to be fine, and it shows in the dash. The headlight don't light up at all when crank, not even on the dash. (high and low beam) I thought as long as the spark plug sparks, your stator is fine? I suspected it to be the problem in the first place... When I got the scoot used, it didn't have a front break lever. It had everything else though for the front. I can squeeze the back breaks all the way. Going to do what geh3333 said to fix it. I have no idea what the auto choke was doing in the video. It was already warmed up, had been running for about 10min before I started recording and its was like 47 degrees out, not too cold... I had to rig the en-richer cable to stay on the plug because it was corroded and exposed when I got the scoot. It stalled out a few times on me. That's why I didn't want to tune it quite yet until it clears out. Ill do my best to adjust the arm, but I might need a video demonstration... lain
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Post by jerseyboy on Jan 11, 2015 19:45:33 GMT -5
Wonder why the motor is surging in the video??
Is the exhaust leaking around the head?
How clean was the pilot jet/ports and are there any air leaks?
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Post by ksaun123 on Jan 11, 2015 19:53:17 GMT -5
I cleaned the carb before but I forgot when. wouldnt hurt to do again. Shouldn't be any air leaks but I do need to zip tie the rest of the vacuum hose.
I don't really know if the valves are leaking. I'm going to liquid test them when I take the head off to fix the exhaust studs.
Does scrappy dogg scoots sell stainless steel exhaust studs?
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Post by lain on Jan 11, 2015 20:01:56 GMT -5
If you have DC fired gy6 then you must use a DC rectifier/regulator. If you try to use an AC rectifier it will be like not having one at all and none of your running lights/signals would work.
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