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Post by thebigk on Dec 29, 2014 16:56:54 GMT -5
An old scooter dealer was getting rid of a few broken scooters so I took them, one has a bad throttle, one has a bad engine (not sure exactly what), one is a Sporty 150 (too small for me) Can't start/idle
The Racer 150... it has 3 miles on it, and never really been ridden. I have read the old thread on the other boards about necessary upgrades. This thing has all original fuel lines, vacuum lines, I replaced the fuel filter.
I would like to eventually upgrade this to handle myself (230 lbs) and my girlfriend(140 lbs) around the hilly areas. Right now I can't even ride it to the DMV to register it!
So if I spray some carb cleaner, it'll fire up for about a few strokes and die. I was able a few times to get it to start, and idle while putting a rag in the air intake after removing the filter.
Lastly, I replaced the carb with a carb from amazon for about $30. I have tweaked with the air/fuel adjustment screw to no avail (probably made it worse) I also am considering re-jetting it to something bigger as per suggestions on several threads.
Eventually I'd like to at least do some simple upgrades, and perhaps later on consider BB, CVT, and camshaft upgrades
Besides that happy Holidays everyone! We just moved to a new area that is scooter friendly so I'd like to at least get two of these guys working...hopefully maybe all 4 eventually!
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 29, 2014 19:16:40 GMT -5
First thing, check the compression. If you don't have a gauge, just put your thumb over the hole and press the starter, if it blows your thumb off you're good. Check the plug and be sure it isn't gummed up and the gap is right.
Next, check the valves. The number one cause of hard starting on gy6 motors is valves out of adjustment. Set them both to .004, or the intake to .004 and exhaust to .005 (exhaust can use a bit more room, after all the gas has expanded).
While checking your valves, give your intake manifold a real good look over. Tiny cracks can cause air leaks that will give you all kinds of headaches.
Let us know if this all checks out.
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Post by thebigk on Dec 30, 2014 18:50:13 GMT -5
I put an NGK plug in, I checked the valves.... completely and absolutely tight! Adjusted, and it's starting great now! I am wondering if my other scooter has the same issue. I guess now I am already looking at upgrades, but I think I should ride around with my girlfriend before I decide which upgrades are necessary. I saw some nice upgrades like the cdi, coil, exhaust, intake, and larger carb, eventually to build up to the Big bore kit. Thank you for the advice!
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Post by JerryScript on Dec 30, 2014 21:49:38 GMT -5
Glad to hear you got her going! If you do upgrade to a BBK, be sure and inspect those valves, they probably could use lapping after being super tight (too tight allows burning/deposits on the edges), or you could get a performance head along with the BBK (highly recommended). Performance coils are hit/miss. I used one for less than a year before it failed on me, put the stock back on and it's still going strong. A uni air intake and free flow exhaust will help, but you will also need to rejet your carb to compensate for the increased air flow. A larger carb is only needed if you get the BBK or do both the uni air intake and free flow exhaust. It's really only necessary if you do all three, do any one of them and your stock carb will be fine. Racing CDIs are not much of a boost. If you go with a BBK, then you might want an advancing (not advanced) angle CDI, tvnacman sells them and several members including myself swear by them. They don't advance at startup, which keeps you from suffering kickback (hard to start, and hard on the motor). They advance as the RPMs increase, which is what you want. If you will be riding mostly with your wife, you will want to fine tune your CVT weights accordingly, most likely go down a gram. This will allow the engine to get to a slightly higher RPM before engaging the CVT, meaning a bit more torque to take advantage of with your double rider situation. However.... In order to have good throttle response with you and your wife, I would definitely suggest a BBK. After installing the BBK, you can then fine tune the CVT weights to get the response you like. Remember, there is no replacement for displacement!
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Post by thebigk on Dec 31, 2014 0:06:28 GMT -5
Hi Jerry, thanks for the detailed response. I will message tvnacman about the CDI, as far as BBK's are concerned, should I go as big as I can or stray away from milling casing? I have seen a number of BBK all over the web, any rule of thumb, when it comes to deciding what to get? The one I am really keeping an eye on is a kit with performance cams. I'm worried whether they will work for me though I have the XY-157qmj, I'm not sure if it matters but I either have the long case or extra long case, variator or clutch upgrades necessary
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Post by jerseyboy on Dec 31, 2014 0:16:53 GMT -5
Compression,Fuel Delivery,Air,Strong Spark=Running GY6
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 31, 2014 0:42:40 GMT -5
Tried to find the advancing angle CDI on his store but only saw a fixed CDI.
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Post by tvnacman on Dec 31, 2014 7:13:58 GMT -5
This is what Jerry is talking about the NYCSP0007 you will need to select from the drop down menu ac or dc . John
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 31, 2014 12:25:56 GMT -5
Crap. That was a pain to figure out last time --- all mixed messages (headlight wrong, etc.) Alley finally told me to look for some sort of voltage at the CDI to finally figure it out. Will have to see if I still have those notes ...
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Post by alleyoop on Dec 31, 2014 13:07:50 GMT -5
TURN THE KEY TO ON and Test the BOTTOM wire on the 2 plug on the CDI, if it registers 12v it is a DC CDI if not it is a AC CDI. If you use a LIGHT TESTER if it lights up it is a DC CDI. Alleyoop
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 31, 2014 19:53:19 GMT -5
Thanks, Alley!
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Post by rcq92130 on Dec 31, 2014 19:56:45 GMT -5
Thanks, tvnacman. Just ordered the DC unit.
Just to double check --- the OEM unit has the following stamped on it:
top: Zhongr1 D111-hycdi 121225
Bottom: XDZ ZN150T-7-04
That a DC unit?>
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Post by thebigk on Jan 2, 2015 12:21:46 GMT -5
Hey guys as far as BB kits are concerned, I'm stuck between looking at 4 valve heads and 2 valve heads...does it really matter THAT much...if I don't intend on actually racing it? I saw some big valve 2 valve heads that I thought would work well, I want to steer away from milling the crankcase, or purchase a pre-milled crankcase unless you think a local automotive machine shop could handle it easily. (Do these things come with good instructions?)
Has anyone actually replaced the crankshaft for a performance one and felt it was a worthwhile upgrade. ($150) for the added displacement?
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Post by thebigk on Jan 2, 2015 13:58:53 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that this is a XY-157QMJ , researching more, the 2 bolt valve cover might make most of the upgrades a deal breaker! I have an extra long case, so the crankshaft upgrades are a no go I will have to measure the heads and see if the BB is actually upgradeable, maybe I'll just upgrade the smaller scooter with a regular length case, and 4 bolt case. Might as well make my ladies scooter very fast
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Post by alleyoop on Jan 2, 2015 14:46:29 GMT -5
I forgot to mention that this is a XY-157QMJ , researching more, the 2 bolt valve cover might make most of the upgrades a deal breaker! I have an extra long case, so the crankshaft upgrades are a no go I will have to measure the heads and see if the BB is actually upgradeable, maybe I'll just upgrade the smaller scooter with a regular length case, and 4 bolt case. Might as well make my ladies scooter very fast Now the motors that have a two bolt valve cover, some of these have a different cylinder, So take the valve cover off and measure the cylinder bolts diagonally, if they are 3" then the stock 157QMJ parts apply, if it is 3.25, then that is a different cylinder and parts are harder to find. Alleyoop
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