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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 16, 2014 11:31:13 GMT -5
Hello all,
you must be thinking "oh no not another guy asking about his lights"
Well, sorry but yes indeed i am, heres what i know
1996 Honda Elite Ch80
The single 10 amp Fuse is good, All Connections are clean and dry, grounds are tight
The Taillight and blinkers work, when depressing the brake the taillight gets brighter, the High Beam indicator and Blinker indicators work, Fuel gauge work. What doesnt is the Headlight, License Light, and Horn.
The problem began with the Horn not working. A week later the headlight and Dashlights became very dim, until i reached a certain speed, then only working with the switch turned to High Beam. This continued for about a week. It was kind of cool, i could turn my headlight on and off as i please, then one day it gave out completely. Recently i replaced the dashlights because they burnt out, but the Headlight appears fine.
Any help would be appreciated. i have been through the diagram and have it if need be. Im just short of checking the connections with a multimeter now..
Any help would be appreciated , thank you guys.
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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 16, 2014 20:54:07 GMT -5
further note... the two Dashlight bulbs i replaced blew again, within 30 minutes of riding.. must be a short somewhere..
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 16, 2014 21:12:04 GMT -5
First thing check if the R/R is over charging, start it up and put connect the multi meter to the battery and rev it up and see what it registers. If the R/R is bad it will effect your lights and charging and may cause things to blow. Same with a bad ground check all the green wires. The horn check the hot wire and see if it getting 12volts at the horn. If not then you can trace it back to the horn button and see if juice is getting to the switch.
Alleyoop
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Post by bashan on Nov 16, 2014 22:53:24 GMT -5
Oddly Alley, the wiring diagram on this bike appears to show the horn, license light, and headlight are all off of the yellow AC wire. I know the license and horn are usually DC so this is atypical. Bart, Alley is correct, you need to do some multi testing. Put your multi to AC and test the yellow wire while hooked up to the R/R and see what you get. Ground one probe and touch the other to a bare connector on the yellow wire. Anywhere on the yellow will work, it's all regulated. You should get around 12v AC with a few RPMs.
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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 17, 2014 10:33:07 GMT -5
Thank you guys, ill go ahead and test that when it stops raining and let you know how things go.
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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 23, 2014 16:25:14 GMT -5
Hey all. Checked the electrical today and heres what i got... My meter only reads 1kx ohms so i couldnt get a reading on the R/R ( manual says it should be fractions of a single one) The yellow wire while grounded on the Regulator in AC 50 (it can be 10,50 150 , etc)mode reads about 3, with about half throttle RPMs applied it went to 7+ . The battery in AC reads about 5.5, didnt test with rpms because i only have two hands. 12-13 on DC mode. Took off the front fairing assy and disconnected the headlight. Started it up and tested 2 separate speedo cluster bulb sockets in AC mode, both read around 1 until given some RPMS then voltage output reaches 7+. Same with the Headlight connector. the funny thing is the hi/lo indicator socket also fluctuates dramatically but has never blown. I did a visual inspection of the switches and they are free of rust and corrosion. I'm not sure how to test the open/closed circuit bit. Checked grounds by the R/R they are tight and free of rust. Im a bit stumped here, My more experienced friend says the R/R May be toast.. IDK if this helps your input but i've put in lighter roller weights , a uni air filter, larger jets, replaced the mixture screw, sanded the clutch, and removed the downspout off the exhaust. would you believe theres a 1 inch tube in there that has the id of a dime? The bike runs great other than this electrical issue. Thank you guys  |
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Post by bashan on Nov 24, 2014 23:08:12 GMT -5
The battery is always DC, if set to AC the multi reads half of what is going on because it is trying to read an oscillating wave form. Your battery voltage while the bike is running should be around 13.5 to 14 DC with some RPM so that is OK I think. Now the yellow wire voltages are pathetic. It's either the stator or the R/R. So unhook the stator and test the wires for voltage. You should get around 30-40v AC on the white and 15 to 20v AC on the yellow. If those are OK it's probably the R/R.
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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 25, 2014 8:15:48 GMT -5
thank you for your continuing support Bashan.
I misread the readings, sorry i was using the 0-10 scale not 0-50. (Multimeter (GMT-312) )
Yellow wire in the connector while grounded to regulator reads about 15 V on idle and around 40 V with throttle
dashlight sockets both read around 5 until given some RPMS then voltage is around 35
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Post by bashan on Nov 26, 2014 19:04:58 GMT -5
Your voltages are all over the place plus you're blowing bulbs, I'd say it's your R/R. The stator would have to be generating mega voltages that the R/R couldn't handle and that's very rare. Shorts typically will not produce consistently high voltages like you're getting, they simply pop the fuse. A bad R/R will generally blow bulbs first and then pop the fuse if it gets bad enough. My money would be on the R/R.
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
