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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 25, 2014 8:15:48 GMT -5
thank you for your continuing support Bashan.
I misread the readings, sorry i was using the 0-10 scale not 0-50. (Multimeter (GMT-312) )
Yellow wire in the connector while grounded to regulator reads about 15 V on idle and around 40 V with throttle
dashlight sockets both read around 5 until given some RPMS then voltage is around 35
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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 23, 2014 16:25:14 GMT -5
Hey all. Checked the electrical today and heres what i got... My meter only reads 1kx ohms so i couldnt get a reading on the R/R ( manual says it should be fractions of a single one) The yellow wire while grounded on the Regulator in AC 50 (it can be 10,50 150 , etc)mode reads about 3, with about half throttle RPMs applied it went to 7+ . The battery in AC reads about 5.5, didnt test with rpms because i only have two hands. 12-13 on DC mode. Took off the front fairing assy and disconnected the headlight. Started it up and tested 2 separate speedo cluster bulb sockets in AC mode, both read around 1 until given some RPMS then voltage output reaches 7+. Same with the Headlight connector. the funny thing is the hi/lo indicator socket also fluctuates dramatically but has never blown. I did a visual inspection of the switches and they are free of rust and corrosion. I'm not sure how to test the open/closed circuit bit. Checked grounds by the R/R they are tight and free of rust. Im a bit stumped here, My more experienced friend says the R/R May be toast.. IDK if this helps your input but i've put in lighter roller weights , a uni air filter, larger jets, replaced the mixture screw, sanded the clutch, and removed the downspout off the exhaust. would you believe theres a 1 inch tube in there that has the id of a dime? The bike runs great other than this electrical issue. Thank you guys  |
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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 17, 2014 10:33:07 GMT -5
Thank you guys, ill go ahead and test that when it stops raining and let you know how things go.
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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 16, 2014 20:54:07 GMT -5
further note... the two Dashlight bulbs i replaced blew again, within 30 minutes of riding.. must be a short somewhere..
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Post by bartmy1992 on Nov 16, 2014 11:31:13 GMT -5
Hello all,
you must be thinking "oh no not another guy asking about his lights"
Well, sorry but yes indeed i am, heres what i know
1996 Honda Elite Ch80
The single 10 amp Fuse is good, All Connections are clean and dry, grounds are tight
The Taillight and blinkers work, when depressing the brake the taillight gets brighter, the High Beam indicator and Blinker indicators work, Fuel gauge work. What doesnt is the Headlight, License Light, and Horn.
The problem began with the Horn not working. A week later the headlight and Dashlights became very dim, until i reached a certain speed, then only working with the switch turned to High Beam. This continued for about a week. It was kind of cool, i could turn my headlight on and off as i please, then one day it gave out completely. Recently i replaced the dashlights because they burnt out, but the Headlight appears fine.
Any help would be appreciated. i have been through the diagram and have it if need be. Im just short of checking the connections with a multimeter now..
Any help would be appreciated , thank you guys.
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