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Post by bigtzzy on Sept 8, 2014 22:03:10 GMT -5
I have a 150cc Tank Urban Racer.
I am having some issues with the variator/clutch.
Let me first tell you what I have installed on my scooter.
1. A KOSO performance variator with 10g rollers. (The stock rollers were 13g)
2. Red clutch springs w/red torque spring. (ebay)
3. Uni foam filter with velocity stack.(BPNW)
4. Stock muffler was "hollowed out" some by prior owner.
5. Racing CDI(ebay/amazon)
6. Performance Coil and wire and NGK iridium plug.(ebay/amazon)
7. 130 main jet.
8. A bigger pilot jet (I forget the number)
9. Kevlar drive belt.
Here is the issue I'm having.
Before I installed the new variator and clutch springs and belt, when I would accelerate from a stop the clutch would engage just above 2000 rpm on the tach.
After installing the new variator, clutch springs and belt, from a stop the clutch is engaging just above idle or about 1800rpm on the tach.
It was my understanding that lower weight rollers and the red springs should allow the engine to rev higher rpm before the clutch engaged. Please correct me if I'm wrong.
Also, I have never been able to get my scooter to rev above 5500 rpm with a load on it. On the center stand it will rev to 8000 rpm without any problems.
My performance goals for my scooter was to make it accelerate faster off the line. I am not too concerned with top speed anything above 50 mph is fine with me as most of my riding is in the small town that I live in.
P.S. The "load" that my scooter has to move is my 290lb behind. 
This is the intake I have.
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 8, 2014 22:15:28 GMT -5
First if you have one of the newer koso's that are selling on eBay , the 10 gram weights are to heavy . U will need to drop to 9 gram or even 8 grams . Second something is def wrong if you have a 2000rpm clutch springs and they are engaging that low . They should engage around 3000 to 3700 rpms .
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 8, 2014 22:23:29 GMT -5
First if you have one of the newer koso's that are selling on eBay , the 10 gram weights are to heavy . U will need to drop to 9 gram or even 8 grams . Second something is def wrong if you have a 2000rpm clutch springs and they are engaging that low . They should engage around 3000 to 3700 rpms . these koso's are made a little different and the rear roller plate is also shaped slightly different then my old Koso , this makes the belt start higher up the variator and lower in he clutch . What size belt r u running and 842 or an 835 ? If your running an 835 then the belt may be even further down in the clutch then my 842 which would kill takeoff and will also cause the clutch to engage sooner . I'm concerned with the 130 main jet " is that a stock carb " |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 8, 2014 22:26:13 GMT -5
First thing I notice is the MAIN JET is to big, you should have at the MOST a 115 with what is basically a stock motor. The 150s come with a 24mm carb and will run good with a #35 pilot jet and they usually come with a main jet anywhere from 103-107. So the rule of thumb is if you add a free flow filter you go 2 sizes bigger on the main jet if you then add a free flow muffler then you add another 2 sizes to the main jet. So as you can see your way over fueled the poor thing and loss of power. Just as a reference I have the 157qmj motor bored out to 62mm and a 60mm Stroker crank which brings it up from 149.6cc to 182ccs. I have the 24mm carb with a K&N filter on a velcoity stack, #38 pilot jet and a 122.5 Main Jet and a 125 was to much fuel. I also have all the other performance goodies. Most folks their first mistake is either over carb the setup sticking in a much bigger carb or over jet the carb that they have. A motor can only take so much fuel and air and if to much fuel some will run but will loose a lot of power. Alleyoop Here is my setup, 24mm with a #38 Pilot jet and a 122.5 Main jet:  |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 8, 2014 22:52:27 GMT -5
U never want to use a bigger carb on a stock bore and head . The reason the 125 was to rich is because it's a stock carb and the k&n filter . There is no way a stock carb and that filter will pull enough air to match a 125 main , that's just common sense . A bigger carb and a less restrictive uni will allow for the 125 to work properly and give more horse power at that . Carb 101
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New Rider
Currently Offline
Posts: 4
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Joined: Jun 4, 2014 20:36:36 GMT -5
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Post by bigtzzy on Sept 8, 2014 23:01:59 GMT -5
Here is my Koso variator.
Click the link at the bottom of my original post to see the intake/velocity stack I am using.
I am running a stock carb and the belt is an 842/20/30
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 8, 2014 23:10:14 GMT -5
U never want to use a bigger carb on a stock bore and head . The reason the 125 was to rich is because it's a stock carb and the k&n filter . There is no way a stock carb and that filter will pull enough air to match a 125 main , that's just common sense . A bigger carb and a less restrictive uni will allow for the 125 to work properly and give more horse power at that . Carb 101 Maybe I should put on a 32mm pumper carb, what do you think? Think it will be to much fuel or still not enough? |
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 8, 2014 23:11:43 GMT -5
Here is my Koso variator.
Click the link at the bottom of my original post to see the intake/velocity stack I am using.
I am running a stock carb and the belt is an 842/20/30
I am also running a KOSO VARIATOR with 12gram Dr. Pulley sliders like it better than the Prodigy I had on it. Alleyoop |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 8, 2014 23:28:41 GMT -5
U never want to use a bigger carb on a stock bore and head . The reason the 125 was to rich is because it's a stock carb and the k&n filter . There is no way a stock carb and that filter will pull enough air to match a 125 main , that's just common sense . A bigger carb and a less restrictive uni will allow for the 125 to work properly and give more horse power at that . Carb 101 Maybe I should put on a 32mm pumper carb, what do you think? Think it will be to much fuel or still not enough? That would be perfect except u would have to switch the k&n for a less restrictive uni then may need a 130 due to the 62 bore . But that all depends on the head and the exhaust . You would have to try the 130 and go from there . |
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Post by ital on Sept 8, 2014 23:51:29 GMT -5
alleyoop I have a 130 main jet on my 150 as well, however my pilot jet is stock 32. Do you think I should use a larger pilot jet and a smaller main jet. I do not wish to change my carburator. Thanks
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 8, 2014 23:59:07 GMT -5
U should use a 35 pilot and no bigger than a 115 main , no need to get a bigger carb without a bigger head and a high performance exhaust .
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 9, 2014 0:00:36 GMT -5
First thing I notice is the MAIN JET is to big, you should have at the MOST a 115 with what is basically a stock motor. The 150s come with a 24mm carb and will run good with a #35 pilot jet and they usually come with a main jet anywhere from 103-107. So the rule of thumb is if you add a free flow filter you go 2 sizes bigger on the main jet if you then add a free flow muffler then you add another 2 sizes to the main jet. So as you can see your way over fueled the poor thing and loss of power. Just as a reference I have the 157qmj motor bored out to 62mm and a 60mm Stroker crank which brings it up from 149.6cc to 182ccs. I have the 24mm carb with a K&N filter on a velcoity stack, #38 pilot jet and a 122.5 Main Jet and a 125 was to much fuel. I also have all the other performance goodies. Most folks their first mistake is either over carb the setup sticking in a much bigger carb or over jet the carb that they have. A motor can only take so much fuel and air and if to much fuel some will run but will loose a lot of power. Alleyoop Here is my setup, 24mm with a #38 Pilot jet and a 122.5 Main jet: That is what I would do #35 pilot and a #115 Main jet. Alleyoop |
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Post by geh3333 on Sept 9, 2014 0:30:26 GMT -5
After you get the jets figured out we are gonna have to figure out your clutch issue . If your rpm gauge is right then your 2000 rpm clutch springs may be to long causing the clutch to engage to soon .
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 9, 2014 2:50:31 GMT -5
The springs are either to long or one or two of the spring ends came out of their slot having a clutch pad or two with no tension and flopping freely.
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
