Burgman 400 CVT issue  By  danno (Read 8,313 times)

He may have been a creeper or used a little throttle to hold position instead of the brake when on an uphill stop. If he did a lot of u-turns or slow maneuvering he would also have been on the throttle while holding the rear brake to stay in the friction zone.

After giving this some thought you do need to pull the bell to remove the clutch from the spindle and if the shoes check out Ok you need to at least wipe down the clutch shaft and apply fresh grease to the needle bearings inside the clutch that ride on the clutch shaft also putting a light film on the shaft itself. Even if you decide to go with a new clutch you need to be sure to grease the needle bearings and shaft to ensure smooth idling and engagement along with long life of the bearings and clutch shaft. Many people even mechanics overlook this and put them together dry.

If you replace the clutch you should also verify the condition and thickness of the bell replacing it if its scored, thin or too heat damaged.

Any good quality high speed bearing grease should do. Be careful not to select a chassis grease specifically formulated for ball joints and tie rod ends as it will not be up to the needs of a high speed needle/roller bearing.

You can use an impact wrench to get things off without collateral damage if you know what your doing and keep a firm grip on things so the impacts are not transferred to crank shaft and gearbox components. You will still need the correct tools to torque the nuts back on to specification. Consider the value of a Burgman and what you'll put at risk by cheating on the re-assembly process. I found Buzzetti made an economical set of holding tools for my bike and it was $50 well spent balanced against the cost of prematurely replacing parts that should last 50,000 to 80,000 miles or having other collateral damage.