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Post by blarboose on Jul 22, 2014 17:26:20 GMT -5
I dont have a scale that can measure in grams, and if I took the weights out I would have no way of getting to the nearest post office since I wouldnt be able to ride the scoot.
I did some looking around and a few different sources seem to confirm that chinese GY6 clones like mine normally come with 14 gram weights. Im going to go ahead and order lighter ones. Im thinking of going with 10 gram ones. Should I do that, or 11 gram?
And Im going to go shoot that video right now, Alley.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 22, 2014 18:05:25 GMT -5
Video!
The first rev, I just quickly twisted the throttle all the way, then let it slow to a stop on its own. Same with the second rev.
The third rev, I twisted it quickly to WOT, and held it there for a second. For some reason, the stumble at WOT is back, but still not as bad as original.
The last rev, I twisted it to WOT more gradually, rather than all at once. After that, the idle RPMs went up a bit and the wheel just kept going.
Also, I never noticed that rattle before. It sounds like something is loose or knocking against something. : (
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 22, 2014 18:50:04 GMT -5
I wouldn't go any lower than 12 to be honest..12 on mine screams! I have 13g sliders and tach 7K on the straights..
That thing is making a heck of a racket,,jesh!!! Sounds like you have more than one issue,,CVT was noisy as well as the engine and exhaust..
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 22, 2014 19:04:27 GMT -5
It is TO LEAN the RPMS hang high then start to drop slow which means it needs more FUEL, Also it stumbled on one of your revving it up.
So try Richen up the Fuel Ratio Mixture screw, 1/4 turns Counter Clockwise Follow my procedure on how to adjust the mixture on carbs in the tips and trick section. What your want is when adjusting the mixture you want to get the HIGHEST IDLE out of it when your done, then lower the idle using the IDLE SPEED screw so that the REAR wheel is NOT spinning.
Yea that rattling I think is coming from inside the muffler baffles are broke inside.
Alleyoop
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Post by blarboose on Jul 22, 2014 19:45:45 GMT -5
It is TO LEAN the RPMS hang high then start to drop slow which means it needs more FUEL, Also it stumbled on one of your revving it up. So try Richen up the Fuel Ratio Mixture screw, 1/4 turns Counter Clockwise Follow my procedure on how to adjust the mixture on carbs in the tips and trick section. What your want is when adjusting the mixture you want to get the HIGHEST IDLE out of it when your done, then lower the idle using the IDLE SPEED screw so that the REAR wheel is NOT spinning. I dont think thats possible. And if it IS true that its too lean... thats kinda scary. O___O Right now, the fuel mixture screw is a full 1260 degrees from being all the way shut. Like, if you turned the screw as far as it would go clockwise, till it was 'all the way' lean, and then turned it 3 and a half full turns. In other words, I would have to do a 1/4 turn FOURTEEN TIMES to get it as rich as it is. The mixture is (quite nearly) as rich as it can possibly ever get. I can barely turn it any further counter clockwise. It cant GET much richer..... and that is still somehow TOO LEAN? Thats kind of worrysome, isnt it? I mean when the maximum amount of richness is "too lean"... theres something wrong there, isnt there? I dont mean to sound like Im telling you you're wrong. Im just saying, if the maximum richness is still too lean, then theres gotta be a much bigger problem here, doesnt there? |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 22, 2014 20:16:51 GMT -5
UPDATE: I tried richening the mixture like you said, Alley. No effect whatsoever. In the end I ended up turning it 3 and a half full turns, and it still stumbles exactly as much at WOT, and the RPMs didnt change. :/ If the issue was indeed the fuel mixture, there would HAVE to have been SOME difference after three and a half full turns. Technically, ANY increase in the fuel mixture should have SOME effect, even if it doesnt totally solve the problem. I mean, I could understand if there wasnt a noticeable difference after 1/4 turn or 1/2 turn or so. But if, after 3 and 1/2 turns, theres NO change what so ever? The mixture cant possibly be the cause. Its gotta be something else. : (
( P.S. I really hate these smileys. -_- Normal text emoticons are so much better. )
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 22, 2014 20:32:28 GMT -5
You just said the magic words bud, no change turning the fuel ratio mixture screw. What that means is your pilot jet is clogged and or passage and or the tiny pilot jet outlets by the butterfly. Here is how to clean it out: Alleyoop Take the carb off or loosen the Clamps and rotate it and take the carb bowl off. Then take Carb Cleaner they come with a thin straw and STICK IT IN the PILOT JET hole and SPRAY. Spray should then come out by the Pilot Jet outlets in PIC #2. Also Spray into the MAIN JET and Spray from there will come out by PIC #3. Alleyoop PIC #1:  PIC #2: When you spray into the PILOT JET SPRAY WILL COME OUT FROM THE PILOT JET FUEL OUTLETS BY THE BUTTERFLY:  PIC #3: When you spray into the MAIN JET SPRAY WILL COME OUT BY THE NEEDLE AND NEEDLE GUIDE: THE MAIN JET IS:  |
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 23, 2014 10:04:39 GMT -5
Thats exactly what I was going to say next,,you need to concentrate on the little holes in the pilot out pic as well,,make sure your carb cleaner squirts out real nice when you spray it from the pilot jet port at the top of the float bowl.
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 19:02:46 GMT -5
Ok, I currently have the carb taken apart. I sprayed the carb cleaner spray as you said, but the spray is NOT coming out of the pilot jet outlets like in your picture! When I spray it in the main jet, it comes out near the needle like you said.
I have given the pilot jet maybe a dozen good sprays and its still not coming out. I even unscrewed the pilot jet and took it out, and tried spraying into the hole beneath, and there is STILL no spray coming out of the pilot jet outlets.
Thoughts?
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 23, 2014 19:31:37 GMT -5
Take a needle or a pin and poke the tiny holes by the butterfly
Alleyoop
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 20:11:28 GMT -5
Take a needle or a pin and poke the tiny holes by the butterfly Alleyoop I managed to get it to spray through. I also replaced the diaphragm. Put everything back together, and tried to start it. It took a few tries, and some starter fluid, but I got it running. I got it to run at 7000 RPMs on the center stand, and that wasnt quite at WOT. If I took it to WOT, I would lose some RPMs like the problem before. BUT! Now its having a different problem! The throttle seems to be having the OPPOSITE effect it should! meaning, when I get it started, lets say for example its idling at 3000 RPMs (Im going to adjust the idle screw and all that after I get this solved) and if I twist the throttle, the RPMs DROP! If I hold the throttle for more than a second or two the engine will full out DIE! Also, If I start it (which right now requires starter fluid every time) and just let it run, it will stall out after a few seconds. Also, it seems like sometimes the throttle acts normally, but most of the time it acts like an anti-throttle and slows the engine/lowers the RPMs. HELP! Im kinda panicking because I have to ride my bike to work tomorrow and I cant do that if it isnt running. Please tell me what to do! |
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 23, 2014 20:26:34 GMT -5
Ok, Turn the fuel ratio screw closed and open it up 2 1/2 turns that should be good for it to start and run pretty good. Now since you took the carb off the throttle cable may not be set right. When you took the carb off did you touch the IDLE SPEED screw if not that is good. So check where the throttle cable is and see if the Idle speed screw is touching the IDLE SPEED STOP PLATE. Or is it like this:  |
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 23, 2014 20:30:43 GMT -5
The Idle speed screw should be touching the stop plate on the throttle control wheel like this:  |
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Post by blarboose on Jul 23, 2014 20:35:27 GMT -5
Ok, Turn the fuel ratio screw closed and open it up 2 1/2 turns that should be good for it to start and run pretty good. Now since you took the carb off the throttle cable may not be set right. When you took the carb off did you touch the IDLE SPEED screw if not that is good. So check where the throttle cable is and see if the Idle speed screw is touching the IDLE SPEED STOP PLATE. Or is it like this: I turned the idle screw to all the way open when I was spraying the carb cleaner (So I could see past the butterfly to see if the spray was coming out the pilot jet outlets) but I am 100% sure I twisted it back before putting the carb back in. I tried turning the idle screw a bit when it wouldnt run right, but Ill double check the cable and all that. So you're thinking that the mixture is too rich now? After I put everything back together, I twisted the micture screw all the way to closed, then twisted it 3 full turns before trying to start. Ill try some leaner mixtures and see if that helps. BRB. |
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Post by alleyoop on Jul 23, 2014 20:47:48 GMT -5
You mean you turned the IDLE SPEED CLOCKWISE to open the butterfly RIGHT, you did not have to do that you just turn the CONTROL WHEEL WITH YOUR HAND LIKE I DID IN THE PICTURE. That means the butterfly is not set right and may be to open or to closed. If you can take some pictures like I put up that would help.
I can tell you how to set it correctly if you want to do that.
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..BAD TO THE BONE..