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Joined: Jun 1, 2014 19:23:28 GMT -5
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Post by genseeker on Jun 25, 2014 17:53:17 GMT -5
Rear brakes no longer working on Tank 250. Throttle stuck a while back & my son rode it home anyways instead of calling me in the middle of the night to look at it. He rode the rear brakes the whole way home & they were locked by the time he got home, luckily it was less than a 1 mile ride. Next morning, rear brakes were no longer frozen but now he has no rear brakes. Can't see any damage to the cables, caliper looks good on visual, plenty fluid in cylinder reservoir.
Fast forward to last night, he rode it with still only front brakes to a nearby store. Left it parked for several hours while he caught a ride to a friend's house in a different town. Got ready to come home & it wouldn't start. Got someone to bring him home & brought the battery, took less than 2 hrs for full charge.
*Already chewed him out over riding with only front brakes.
So my questions:
1. How likely is it he has ruined the brake setup on the rear? I found a new assembly (lever to caliper) on Ebay if needed. 2. How hard is it to replace the rear brake assembly? 3. Is it possible the starting problem is related to the rear brake hardware problems? The left lever is broken so is very short, wondering if maybe it's just in the lever assembly preventing it from starting. 4. Any videos available on replacing the rear brake assembly complete?
Although I'm female I'm fairly handy with a wrench and prefer to do as much of my own work as possible. Would need to know sizes for fasteners since all I really have is SAE tools, getting a metric socket set as soon as it is back in stock @ Lowes. It has both deep and shallow 10mm & 12mm-18mm sockets. Already planning on getting an 8mm as well.
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Post by jerseyboy on Jun 25, 2014 17:56:12 GMT -5
Only 1 mile,,ahhh the shoes and drums are prolly just glazed over,,especially the shoes,,just take it apart and get some 150 grit sand paper and ruff the shoe pads back,,then hit the drum a little,,you should be good to go after that
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Post by urbanmadness on Jun 25, 2014 19:53:24 GMT -5
if it's a 250, it's most likely a disk brake in the back... but yes, he probably glazed the pads. You will need to unbolt the caliper, (12 mm's I think), take note turn the caliper upside down, note the position of the pads, maybe even take a picture and then try to rough them up with 150 grit sand paper. Do not get grease or oil on the pads. They are also very cheap to replace. Take a picture of them, and then talk to one of the vendors, maybe even send them the pic and they can get you the correct ones or just match them up online.
take a picture of the brake handle, they are pretty cheap to replace (like 10 bucks)... In addition to the sockets, you will want a set of end wrenches as well.
On scooters, I prefer to use 1/4" drive sockets and ratchets. You can't strip things as easily that way. Heck I even pefer to use 1/4 drive tools on my goldwing as well.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jun 25, 2014 21:08:13 GMT -5
I had the rear disk on my Xingyue 150 suddenly do the same thing.
Turns out the pads wore enough so the pistons were extended all the way, but the worn pads still wouldn't grab the disk. The failure was instantaneous, like with yours. Your travel while riding the brake MAY have done the same thing. I replaced the whole caliper, but probably could have just done the pads.
I did find that the CALIPER opened TOO FAR for the thin disk, and the pistons got fully-extended BEFORE the pads were worn out. Again, this MAY be something you're experiencing, but maybe not. These Chinese calipers seem to be "universal" for use on many different applications, and open enough to accommodate a thicker disk, possibly for a motorcycle or ATV. With mine, that meant that even brand-new pads had to travel WAY out to grab the disk, so before the pads wore out, the pistons were "out" as far as they'd go.
I pulled the pads on the new one, and installed one of the old pads (with the lining ground off) as a steel "spacer". THIS made the new pads fit perfectly, and would allow the pads to fully wear out before again having the pistons fully-extended and losing braking.
This was my personal experience, and may or may not be pertinent to your scooter, but it's worth a check...
Hope this helps,
Leo in Texas
PS: Replacing the calipers on these is usually VERY simple, requiring only removal of a couple of bolts.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 26, 2014 4:18:05 GMT -5
If he rode the brake like that he potentially boiled the fluid and has a bubble in the system now. You may get away with flushing the system with fresh brake fluid. Using a vacuume bleeder will make the job easier. In case the pads got cooked too badly you may as well replace them rather than chance them coming unbonded later on,
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