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Post by alleyoop on Jun 12, 2014 23:24:13 GMT -5
Just use that one on the top and you have the ground to the frame right there i see green wire and probably the battery ground piece of cake.
Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 12, 2014 23:27:29 GMT -5
Here you go just have some slack on the wire.  |
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Post by alaskus on Jun 14, 2014 13:56:16 GMT -5
Update: What i have done: found the engine ground above the fan, grounded to the frame with the regulator. Re-grounded those wires, sanded down paint for better contact. And added another large 8 gauge wire for test. (did the same thing to the maxima - hence the 8 gauge) no start. Cleaned the carb | Changed the oil. | Drained and filled with all new gas | Alternated a new plug. All same issue. Then as I read on one of these boards to drop some fuel in the vacuum line on the intake manifold imagei did that and still no turning over on electric start. Then tried a kick start and - it turned over! ...and then died. I managed to make this occur twice. So my assumption (usually wrong) would be the carb is not delivering fuel? Now I'm here, a sponge looking to soak up some wisdom. |
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Post by JerryScript on Jun 15, 2014 7:58:45 GMT -5
The carb may not be delivering enough, or too much fuel. Does it cough or spit out the carb when it attempts to kick over (an indication of too much fuel)? Have you tried adjusting your air/fuel mixture screw?
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 15, 2014 8:46:33 GMT -5
If it sputtered when you put fuel in the vac line then it is a fuel delivery or carb problem . To see if you can get it to electric start connect booster cables to the car NOT RUNNING ! and see if it will electric start . You can put somemore fuel in the vac line while trying to get it started .
John
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Post by alaskus on Jun 15, 2014 9:36:47 GMT -5
Thanks guys really appreciate everything.
I'm think the electric start should be fine once enough fuel gets in.
Setting air/fuel mixture should be all the way to the right (clockwise) then 2.5 rotations of the screw (900 degrees) to the left. After that slight adjustments might be needed, but this is the ball park correct? That is where I currently have it set.
Additionally, I noticed when cleaning the carb the fuel drain port on the bottom of the carb - the screw is is missing from the hose, as well as, the screw in the carb itself is completely closed off. I'll search and learn about this though.
John, I saw in a different thread you've had Prodigy's and that is what I am working on if you have any special advice for it.
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 15, 2014 12:08:52 GMT -5
have you set the valves yet , stock carb , what have you done ? What year ?
John
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Post by alaskus on Jun 15, 2014 16:51:06 GMT -5
The scooter is an 2008.
Have done this in the last few days:
Re-grounded the engine wires, sanded down paint for better contact.
Cleaned the stock carb.
Changed the oil.
Drained and filled with all new gas.
Alternated a new plug.
New plug wire (Tested on engine for spark).
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 15, 2014 17:32:40 GMT -5
Ok so we know it could be TWO things and that is:
1. THE EXHAUST valve is not sealing and your loosing compression
2. Fuel delivery problem
So the first thing you want to do is ADJUST the valves otherwise you may be trying to compensate for the tight valves by trying to adjust the carb.
So Adjust BOTH VALVES to .004 inchs
Then 2 to 2 1/2 turns on the Fuel Mixture from the closed position and it should fire right up UNLESS there is a problem with the Pilot Jet and its passage being clogged.
If still little trouble then we can attack the carb.
Alleyoop
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 15, 2014 17:58:37 GMT -5
The stock carb was trouble from o miles it drove me nuts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I had to prime the fuel system every 24 hours (fuel in the vac line) . the dealer sent me another carb it was good for a week same crap with priming . I switched to keihin carb it was like a double shot of expresso day and night . I have made several changes along the way .
rear disk or drum brake ?
Where do you live , what is the temp ?
John
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Post by alaskus on Jun 15, 2014 18:03:17 GMT -5
AllyOop - Ill tighten the bottom one up.
Rear Disk - I had one of each but sold the drum.
Im in Tampa and its hot and humid. Always.
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Post by tvnacman on Jun 15, 2014 18:30:31 GMT -5
The carbs from the factory are too lean .
John
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Post by alaskus on Jun 15, 2014 19:25:51 GMT -5
Just in general? the main jet is a 105
re did the valves to .004 each. did the air to fuel screw to 2.5 turns.
still not getting fuel.
on the intake-prime it fired with the kick start and died out.
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Post by alleyoop on Jun 15, 2014 19:35:27 GMT -5
Main Jets have nothing to do with starting its the Pilot Jet and how much the butterfly is open that will make them start within 1 or 2 hits of the start button. The 24mm carbs usually come with main jets anywhere from 103 to 107 or so main jets and a #35 Pilot Jet.
Alleyoop
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Post by alaskus on Jun 15, 2014 20:44:58 GMT -5
got it - thank you  So should I just spend a couple bucks on a rebuild kit or a grab a new carb and call it a day? these are what i have found on ebay: rebuild | Carb A | Carb B | Carb CI'm really into a territory here in replacing this stuff where I'll easily admit I'm ignorant to not waste your time. Ive bought parts for this scooter previously and since it is a GY6 B everything seems to not fit it. |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
