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Post by spandi on May 20, 2014 22:09:01 GMT -5
 the left side has a different looking casing that covers clutch and whaterver else is in there It seems to me as if they have redesigned the CVT with a "sub-cover" (angled part in front) to gain access to the belt/variator without having to remove the whole thing...Smart! (or did they just copy Yamaha again?)  |
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Roar 250 39c
by: oldchopperguy - Jun 27, 2014 0:43:18 GMT -5
Post by oldchopperguy on Jun 27, 2014 0:43:18 GMT -5
That IS a great-looking scoot!
You're going to love the ability to run with traffic faster than in-town!
Ride safe,
Leo in Texas
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Post by miken on Jan 3, 2016 15:09:43 GMT -5
o I just got a 2013 roar 25 t 39c. Did you get the manuals with yours? I have none, if so could you copy them a send me one I will pay for your time.
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Post by spandi on Jan 3, 2016 15:58:15 GMT -5
If it's the 257cc clone use the manual from the Yamaha YP250, if it's the 244cc Honda clone engine you can use the Helix or Elite 250 manual.  |
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Post by miken on Jan 3, 2016 18:04:11 GMT -5
Thanks srandi
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Post by spandi on Jan 3, 2016 20:14:49 GMT -5
You're quite welcome. good luck! |
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Post by miken on Jan 4, 2016 14:58:53 GMT -5
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Post by miken on Jan 4, 2016 15:00:30 GMT -5
It has disc breaks front/rear
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Post by spandi on Jan 4, 2016 15:43:23 GMT -5
Do you mean; gear oil, motor oil, or brake fluid? |
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Roar 250 39c
by: dollartwentyfive - Jan 4, 2016 16:27:37 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 4, 2016 16:27:37 GMT -5
honda also says to use regular engine oil in the final drive, and like you i consider it too thin. i use 80W-85W-  gear oil in my final drive. do this on the center stand. my final drive was made in such a way that by putting the front wheel on the ground allowed all the fluid to drain out. putting the back tire on the ground allowed about 10% more fluid to be added. i also recommend replacing the tire valve stems, or at least keep an eye on them for cracking use antifreeze approved for aluminum engines in the radiator. i used premixed, but you can mix it yourself. use distilled water for mixing. (and for the battery) also, the sight glass on the master cylinders seem to be questionable, so keep an eye on them too. speaking of which, it might not be a bad idea to at least bleed your brakes. keep brake fluid off the plastic panels and immediately wipe up any spills, brake fluid will damage the plastics. change the oil, get rid of that stuff that shipped in your engine. i use 10W-40 engine oil, but a severe environment type oil would be preferable. change your oil regularly, these engines take a pounding, i changed mine once a month. keep your tire pressure at recommended PSI, low air pressure will cause premature tire wear. you will no doubt need to adjust your valves at least once. get a full face helmet, and wear it. gloves, boots, and jacket. if you plan on doing any cold weather riding, then get a rainsuit. you would not believe the difference a rubberized rainsuit makes. even 50 degree weather will freeze you to the bone at 60MPH. also, don't drink and ride, not even one beer. no, i'm not joking. |
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Post by miken on Jan 4, 2016 17:53:32 GMT -5
Plate says 15w 40 engine oil/ gear oil yp 250 manual says 10w40 but don't know what is correct. I think it has 90w gear oil in it . It is real thick. People say it's a 257cc and use the yp 250 manual.Any help would be appreciated .like I stated I and bran new to scooters.thanks everybody
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Roar 250 39c
by: dollartwentyfive - Jan 4, 2016 18:46:28 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 4, 2016 18:46:28 GMT -5
.like I stated I and bran new to scooters.thanks everybody be sure to read my thread on safety issues in the general scooter board. |
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Roar 250 39c
by: dollartwentyfive - Jan 5, 2016 10:30:25 GMT -5
Post by dollartwentyfive on Jan 5, 2016 10:30:25 GMT -5
Plate says 15w 40 engine oil/ gear oil yp 250 manual says 10w40 but don't know what is correct. the oiling system used in the final drive is splash. this means the various parts get their oil from other rotating parts slinging oil all over the place. the oil passages in these drives are small, and the clearance between the bearing and the case is even smaller. this requires a relatively thin oil, especially in cool to cold weather. heat from the engine will eventually thin the oil. i guess the weight you mentioned could be correct because gear oil is used mainly in "open faced" applications, gear boxes and differentials. these components do not have the small clearances of scooter final drives, and they use a relatively large amount of oil. yamaha has probably made a great service manual for the 257cc used in your scoot, i would follow their recommendations. |
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Post by miken on Jan 5, 2016 11:03:52 GMT -5
When you say final drive do you mean back by the rear wheel? Guess I am using car talk. So use what the yp250 manual says?there is only 3100 miles on it,trying to Chang out every fluid in it to make sure it is right. Next will be coolant thanks again for your help miken
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Post by rockynv on Jan 5, 2016 13:12:41 GMT -5
The important number is the second number which is 40. The first number is how thick the oil gets when its cold. If you are in a colder climate then go with the 10W40 for easier cold weather starting and if your in the South then the 15W40 should be fine. Note that the Yamaha manual is written for the engines built by them to their tighter tolerances so the Yamaha manufactured engine would need a motor oil that did not thicken as much when cold as would a varient of their engine made by another manufacturer using loser tolerances.
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gear oil in my final drive.