Broken belt and broken roller - 5/20 problem resolved !  By  dev150cc (Read 6,989 times)

Just to let u know , lighter weights dosent mean you'll lose top end . To heavy of weights and to light of weights and you will lose top end. Its a tuning process , if you want the max performance u can get at top end and still have good takeoff , u will need to try different variants of weights . You will want to be able to reach between 7,000 and 7500 rpms on a straight stretch without reaching 8000 rpms or redline . I have very good takeoff and I reach my top speed near 7500 rpms , I am running 10 gram sliders . With 9 gram sliders I was redlining at my top speed and with 11 gram sliders I wasn't able to hit the top mph until I hit a slight decline because the belt was rising on the variator at a lower rpm and the engine lacks the power to turn the belt ratio until between 7000 and 7500 rpms . the weight of the rider also comes into play . But if you are looking to get max performance out of the engine u def want to reach max power near 7500 rpms.

I've only had two test rides on the new variator and 12g weights. On the first ride, I was able to get out and quite a bit more before I had the sputtering issue. At that time, I had it at about 60mph indicated, which is faster than the original variator and 17g weights. But it was a slower rise to that point without as much punch to the lower/mid. The issue became more pronounced after a few miles and I feathered it home (my thought at the time was that it was overheating, so I didn't open the throttle more)

This second trip last night, I was within the neighborhood. I brought it up to maybe 3/4 throttle on a longer stretch. I think no matter where on the throttle, if I gave it a twist, would sputter.

My plan for tonight will be to swap new plug, new coil/wire/boot, new CDI and test. I'll pull out my timing light and hook it up so I can see if I'm missing a spark cycle.

If that checks out, I'll put the old variator on with the heaviest combination of weights I have to get it back to what it was previously and see if I have a CVT issue.

I checked the carb out - everything is good there, including installation. I may work with the needle later to fine tune, but it was running well prior to my belt break recently.

I'm focusing back on the variator and possible spark related (thinking not at this point). I'll try to get the CVT back to where it was before the belt break and variator change, then take things from there. Trying to be systematic about things, as well as lube, adjust where needed opportunistically along the way. This is going to be an awesome scooter some day

I weight in at 215.

Ok... do this... go all the way back to stock jet then if it runs like it did, then go to the bigger jet (start with the 110)....

The variator won't cause sputtering, and stuttering.

My money is on one of two things...

The carb round slider isn't moving, (stuck), it's over jetted (115 is a bit big for stock, try the 110), or plug boot (see below). Since you already have the jets, checking these three things won't cost you a dime, just a little time.

If you suspect a spark problem, check the plug boot before you do anything. They do go bad and unclip from the spark plug. Always make sure it's pressed all the way on any time you do a valve adjustment, because that's when you are trying to work in that tight space with them big hands and sometimes you will brush up against it and not even know it getting it just loose enough on the end of the spark plug. As a matter of fact, after I had three different bikes end up with this problem, I decided that when I do the first valve adjustment on a bike (and I work on all my buddies bikes), I change the plug boot with a quality one (about 5bucks from the scooter shop). They just twist onto the plug wire.

To check the carb slide, pull the airbox snorkle off the carb, start the bike, and then see if the slide lifts when you give it a little gas.

Be patiant, one way or another we'll make it an awesome scooter...

Alley, what do you think?

The 107 is better (close to stock), but a 109 or 110 would be buttah! A 115 is a bit on the large size (I thought you had said you had a 115 in it)



also, have you seen Alley's carb tuning doc? It's really good.

itistheride.boards.net/thread/148/alleys-general-carb-adjustment-guide

Well makes a big difference the way you explain a problem. I think the best is to take a VIDEO of it acting up then I can better tell you if its a CARB problem or a CVT problem or a Motor problem. Don't forget you were on it when the belt let loose and the RPMS must of climbed really high.

If this is stock NO BBK, the pilot should be a #35, appears the problem is starting off which has nothing to do with your MAIN JET, that comes on much later when your rpms are up there.

Easy TEST and quick To find out if your pilot jet is wrong do this: Start it up and let it IDLE and let it warm up so the ENRICHER cuts off the extra fuel at least 5 minutes. THEN slowly turn the fuel ratio screw clockwise until it stops. IF THE MOTOR is still running with the fuel ratio all the way in the PILOT JET IS TO BIG(to much fuel).
Alleyoop

HAHAHAHA, now that is also a completely different description. But I know sometimes it is hard to explain that is why I sometimes ask for a VIDEO or PICTURES of the problems. But let me ask this after the belt broke did you take the clutch apart and clean it all out? Pieces of rubber and or material could be in-between the contra spring, or behind the outside pulley and or dust inside the sheave causing it to bind and make it hesitate when the Pulley gets to a certain spot and will not open smoothly.
So I would take it completely apart and clean it all good and a little grease on the pins and pin slide area.
Alleyoop