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Post by alleyoop on May 24, 2014 16:34:08 GMT -5
When your trying to start it do you see the rear wheel turning?
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on May 24, 2014 16:37:58 GMT -5
No
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Post by alleyoop on May 24, 2014 16:40:19 GMT -5
When it died the last time where was it idling and how many turns out was the fuel ratio screw, we need to get it to at least start. It should start with 2 - 2 1/2 turns out on the fuel screw. Even if you have to up the idle a little but at least to get it to stay running so we can see what the CVT is doing.
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on May 24, 2014 16:42:09 GMT -5
Right now I'm at 2.5 turns of the mixture screw and I almost had it started by turning the idle screw counter clockwise, trying, counter clockwise, try, etc....but the battery died so I'm giving it a minute.
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Post by bille on May 24, 2014 16:44:09 GMT -5
I took the CVT cover off while I'm waiting. I see black dust in there, like from the belt, is that normal?
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Post by alleyoop on May 24, 2014 16:47:05 GMT -5
Yes some belt material will start to come off but there shouldn't be a heck of a lot. right now take a picture of the belt and CVT so I can see where the belt is in the pulleys.
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on May 24, 2014 17:11:26 GMT -5
I can't get it to start for more then 15 or 20 seconds so here is the cvt without the biking running:
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Post by alleyoop on May 24, 2014 17:24:18 GMT -5
Well that doesn't look as bad as I thought it might be the belt is down some on the clutch pulley which would make it turn faster at a lower idle. That belt looks new what size is it?
Alleyoop
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Post by bille on May 24, 2014 17:26:54 GMT -5
The belt is 835 20 30. The whole bike is brand new, it has like 100 miles on it. This whole thing started because it was stalling when hot.
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Post by alleyoop on May 24, 2014 17:44:46 GMT -5
Stalling when hot was just the valves, but you probably could use a 842-20-30 size belt that would raise the belt up on the Clutch pulley and not be turning at such a low rpm. The other thing it could be is one or two springs holding the clutch pads broke or came off causing the pads to be thrown out and grabbing the bell and turning the wheel at such low rpms. Once what is wrong there then the motor will be able to idle at a low rpm and not have the wheel turning and putting a load on it a such low rpms. Do you have the tools to take the Nut off the Clutch and pull it off to check the springs? As soon as you take the NUT off and just pull the BELL off you will be able to see the springs on the pads and see if all is good or not. Alleyoop Notice on this Clutch one of the springs is missing.  |
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Post by bille on May 24, 2014 17:55:03 GMT -5
I tried to get it off with a screw driver and a socket but I wasn't able.
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Post by bille on May 24, 2014 18:12:12 GMT -5
I got it started....for a couple of minutes. I got it on video if you want to see what it's doing:
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Post by alleyoop on May 24, 2014 18:12:46 GMT -5
Bummer, you are going to have to get an IMPACT WRENCH you are going to need it sooner or later to take the Variator off and change the weights anyways. Alleyoop Here is a good one at a very good price plus a Coupon. www.harborfreight.com/12-in-electric-impact-wrench-68099.html20% coupon code 12260182 WHAT DID YOU HAVE TO DO TO GET IT STARTED So we know what it needs the way it currently is sitting? |
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Post by bille on May 24, 2014 18:17:52 GMT -5
To get it started I made sure the mixture screw was at 2.5 and I just kept turning the idle screw clockwise until it started.
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Post by alleyoop on May 24, 2014 18:21:44 GMT -5
Yea that thing is turning the wheel pretty fast. So to get it started you need to have it start at a good click to keep it running because the clutch is also trying to turn the wheel. And at that speed if you take if off the stand and or put on the brakes it will kill the motor.
The problem is in the CVT it should not be spinning the wheel so soon.
Alleyoop
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
