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Post by alleyoop on May 4, 2014 19:17:14 GMT -5
Here is a better picture of just about how it should be put in there. Now to do this you have to take the two screws out from under the black controler and it comes apart in two halfs then rotate the grip in the right position. Alleyoop
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Post by bille on May 4, 2014 20:09:55 GMT -5
Here is a better picture of just about how it should be put in there. Now to do this you have to take the two screws out from under the black controler and it comes apart in two halfs then rotate the grip in the right position. Alleyoop Yes, you are correct, it was on the bottom, not the top.
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Post by alleyoop on May 4, 2014 20:35:53 GMT -5
DAMN AM I GOOD OR WHAT How did that fuel mixture adjustment go any luck on that? Alleyoop
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Post by bille on May 4, 2014 21:07:55 GMT -5
fuel mixture not going so well. I did a 1/4 turn counter clockwise, I thought it sounded like the engine sped up, so I did another 1/4 turn counter clockwise and it stalled and now it won't start, even after moving the screw back 1/4 clockwise.
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Post by alleyoop on May 4, 2014 21:14:58 GMT -5
Turn the screw clockwise until it stops and count the number of turns it took to stop. Then turn it out 1/2 turn less and see if that helps it. Did you fix the throttle cable? If you twist it away from you it should give slack and not pull. Alleyoop
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Post by bille on May 4, 2014 21:18:52 GMT -5
Turn the screw clockwise until it stops and count the number of turns it took to stop. Then turn it out 1/2 turn less and see if that helps it. Did you fix the throttle cable? If you twist it away from you it should give slack and not pull. Alleyoop It starts up for a second then stalls out. I haven't fixed the throttle cable yet, I want to get some lube for it before I mess with it.
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Post by alleyoop on May 4, 2014 21:29:29 GMT -5
How many turns is the screw out from the closed position? Or how many turns was it out before. It sure is acting like it runs out of fuel when it dies. The Vacuum line going to the PETCOCK does it go straight to it or does it go to a "T" or a "Y then another piece of hose goes to the PETCOCK on the tank. Alleyoop
Never mind about the Vacuum Line I went back and saw the video again it goes to a "T" off the "T" to the carbs ACV valve and a straight shot to the PETCOCK on the gas tank.
Get a spray bottle of water or if you have carb cleaner and when you get it running again Remember you mentioned something about a gap at the bottom of the INTAKE MANIFOLD Spray some water or carb cleaner around there and see if the IDLE CHANGES when sprayed around there.
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Post by bille on May 4, 2014 21:48:53 GMT -5
How many turns is the screw out from the closed position? Or how many turns was it out before. It sure is acting like it runs out of fuel when it dies. The Vacuum line going to the PETCOCK does it go straight to it or does it go to a "T" or a "Y then another piece of hose goes to the PETCOCK on the tank. Alleyoop It was 2.5 turns so I brought it back out between 2 and 2.25 turns. The vacuum line from the petcock goes to a T, which then splits between the carb and the manifold.
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Post by alleyoop on May 4, 2014 21:52:02 GMT -5
We were typing at the same time, Re-Read my post just before yours. Alleyoop
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Post by bille on May 4, 2014 21:53:45 GMT -5
I do have carb cleaner, just picked some up today in case you wanted me to take apart the carb I will try that now, or as soon as it will start..
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Post by bille on May 4, 2014 21:58:38 GMT -5
I didn't notice a difference, it's sort of surging slightly right now anyway, the back wheel spins on idle. It stalled and now it's doing the thing were it starts for a second then dies.
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Post by alleyoop on May 4, 2014 22:07:17 GMT -5
Good man, the carb seems to be fine because it acts on the fuel ratio mixture screw. If you turned that in either direction and it would not change anything then it would be that it was clogged but it changes the mixture so all that is good.
You do have a lot of emissions on that thing and those can cause those problems with valves not opening or vacuum lines leaking etc..
We could start taking some of them off. The easy one is the TANK VENTING system. That one you just take the vent hose coming from the tank and where ever it goes to take it off and add a fuel filter to the hose and zip tie it to something little higher than the outlet from the tank( if you don't have a spare fuel filter for now you can do without one). And there should be a hose from the canister to the Air Box or tubing pull that off the airbox or tubing and block the connector on the air box or tubing. Now the vacuum line going to the canister take that off and block the vacuum line you can bend it over and zip tie it shut or block it off at its ORIGIN. Then you can take everything out canister and all the hoses attached to it. Alleyoop
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Post by alleyoop on May 4, 2014 22:08:33 GMT -5
Ok surging it needs more fuel, turn the fuel screw counter clockwise, try 1/8 at a time. Alleyoop
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Post by bille on May 4, 2014 23:01:08 GMT -5
I like the idea of removing things I don't need on here! For the tank venting system, it has 2 lines (3 really but two go to the same place). One line goes to this thing that I don't know what its called: The other hose goes to a T connection that splits between the manifold and another black plastic vacuum thing. So do I remove it from the T connection and cap off that thing in the picture above?
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Post by alleyoop on May 4, 2014 23:11:23 GMT -5
Yea , all you want is one hose coming off the top of the TANK and zip that sucker little higher than the tank. the rest just take off and cap the VACUUM line you do not want any VACUUM line open. A hose will be going to the air box or tubing going to the carb pull the hoses off there and plug the connectors on the airbox or air tubing going to the carb. That thing your holding is a gas return worthless piece of crap. Alleyoop
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