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Post by carpespasm on Mar 15, 2014 12:15:21 GMT -5
Like the title says, I just picked up a scooter with a bunch of miles on the frame and engine. Body plastics are busted up but present, the carb, belt, rollers, rear tire, and spark plug are all new. The main issue with it right now is presumably lack of compression as even after a valve adjustment it's barely able to idle, and with that many miles I'm amazed it can try to run at all.
All that said, I've got a new piston waiting for me at the house, a new battery a couple days out, and a mind to rat-rod it up. Before tossing any more money in it (I've got under $200 in it including the 60cc BBK and battery) I'd like to know what all I might expect to need service given the scooter's got a relatively high number of miles on it. I'm familiar with chinascooters, but never had one with that much on the clock. Anyone know lifespan expectations for things like the various bearings, rear gears, etc... assuming they've had decent maintenance? I'd hate to get a decent fraction of a whole new engine's cost into this one if there's not a reasonable amount of life left in the valves, bearings, etc...
Assuming all major gear drive train and brakes are in okay shape once the BBK is in place I'm planning to weld in a center support bar, Putting on different headlight cluster, removing some of the body panels, maybe making a wood floorboard, and new seat frame and seat more in a Ruckus style.
I'll post photos as I go as well.
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Post by PCBGY6 on Mar 15, 2014 13:10:43 GMT -5
I'm not sure if would put a bbk on a scooter with that many kilometers on it. I would personally just a get it running decent the way it is. If anything I would try to build another motor for it as time and money allows that way you have a backup. Putting added stress on something with that much on the clock may not be good on the crank.
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Post by carpespasm on Mar 15, 2014 13:56:56 GMT -5
I share much the same concern about the bottom end's long term viability, especially with the added power, but figure if nothing else this will be a good experiment of how long an old motor with a mild bbk, stock intake, and exhaust holds up. if I'm lucky itll be quite some time and if not I might still be able to keep the cylinder and piston to toss in a new motor.
I'm going to switch the motor and rear gears to synthetic oil, so mayhaps that'll help as well. In related concern, whats the most commn failure mode for the crank case area on these scooters? broken crank? bearings? seals?
oh, and if and when the whole think does take a dump I'll likely do an autopsy on it as well and post it.
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Post by PCBGY6 on Mar 15, 2014 14:47:37 GMT -5
Id be worry about the seals and bearings. You never know how the person ride it.
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 15, 2014 15:29:16 GMT -5
seals are the least of it , if they leak change them . The top ends go long before the lower . If you break a valve and you get pieces in the sump it will kill your crank bearings and oil pump . I would split the case for cleaning out fine pieces from inside the cases and to check the crank bearings .
John
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Post by carpespasm on Mar 15, 2014 18:38:11 GMT -5
seals are the least of it , if they leak change them . The top ends go long before the lower . If you break a valve and you get pieces in the sump it will kill your crank bearings and oil pump . I would split the case for cleaning out fine pieces from inside the cases and to check the crank bearings . John Do you think it would be more effective to just replace the entire head or just the valves?
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Post by JerryScript on Mar 15, 2014 20:06:36 GMT -5
Unless you have the proper tools, changing the valves can be very challenging. It may be cheaper to just do the valves, but it depends on how you value your time. I'm pretty sure you could swap out half a dozen heads in the amount of time it would take to change the valves.
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Post by tvnacman on Mar 15, 2014 20:18:16 GMT -5
Unless you have the proper tools, changing the valves can be very challenging. It may be cheaper to just do the valves, but it depends on how you value your time. I'm pretty sure you could swap out half a dozen heads in the amount of time it would take to change the valves. If the money is very tight change the valves , I would change the head . I'm with Jerry . John
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Post by alleyoop on Mar 15, 2014 21:15:38 GMT -5
Changing the Valves is not hard here is a video to give you an idea how-to. Alleyoop
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Post by carpespasm on Mar 15, 2014 23:24:54 GMT -5
Well, I know a visual inspection isn't everything, but just visually checking everything looks pretty good on the cam and valves. No major scoring or anything to them. I'm replacing the cylinder at the moment, and will give them another clearance adjustment before final reassembly, but I appreciate the advice. Going on Scrappydog's site it's really not a big difference to just buy the head vs just the springs and valves, so if I replace it I'll just do that.
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