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Post by urbanmadness on Nov 29, 2013 0:53:37 GMT -5
I am thinking a blue metal-flake (rustoluem), with white and yellow, real flame (air brushed). Let me know how the clear goes. I love rustoluem. I actually have a k-5 blazer I did a roller paint job on using rustoluem... If done right, you can actually get a smooth finish with a roller...  We won't talk about wet sanding between coats on that beast! I got to where I could do the whole truck in about 4hours. On my bike, I'm not looking for perfection, just nice. I've started painting the black plastics (floor boards and center hump, along with dash.... I might re-do it tho, I used gloss and I think it would look better flat or satin. I'm doing a few red-neck carbon fiber pieces (got a roll of 3m "carbon fiber" vinyl coming, already have "carbon fiber" mirrors and just did my cramp buster for kicks and giggles with some scraps I had laying around. |
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Post by yelloscoot on Nov 29, 2013 1:29:54 GMT -5
I just can't imagine using a roller.  Yes to the vinyl "fiber",... all the black on my panels is the 4D Carbon Fiber from E-Bay. Very easy to lay and stretch with a heat lamp or summer sun too. Do you airbrush now?...Real Flames are a tough skill to master. I'm not even close to that level yet.  |
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Post by urbanmadness on Nov 30, 2013 5:12:40 GMT -5
Got her to fire up tonight. Found out it also has a bad starter solenoid. I've got juice on the start wire, but no crank... It does run, and seem to run pretty well. Ordering two brake switches and a starter solenoid tomorrow. I bet the remote start will even work then.
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Post by JR on Dec 1, 2013 8:12:54 GMT -5
Awesome.... Thanks JR.... I figured it didn't matter because it was 3 phase... now I have to figure out my meter... It's vintage, and cool.... but harder to use.... I know how to use it for DC... but never fooled with it on anything AC. Tell ya what... I can put up a better video of stator testing if you want.... Now that I know what to do..... Now if I could just find the hazard and kill switches for this bike.... I hate to referb the dash on it and used faded switches... The bike is a little different config. The switches at Scrappy are marked differently... The one they have for the kill switch is actually my hazard flashers... the one for the Aux, on my is the kill switch.... I'm gonna have 60 bucks just tied up in switches. I'm replacing both brake switches as well, one is completely bad the other is intermittent. Still trying to figure out what I want to do for paint.... Would love to see a better and (correct) way of testing a 3 phase stator video on your scooter, remember to set your meter to at least 200Vac or better.
JR
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 2, 2013 0:57:08 GMT -5
Yup.... don't want to blow up my vintage meter... Also, how do you test the voltage regulator? It's new but it still wasn't charging. I was "told" it could be a connection to the ignition switch. Also, the blocking diode is good. |
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Post by JR on Dec 2, 2013 16:32:18 GMT -5
Yup.... don't want to blow up my vintage meter... Also, how do you test the voltage regulator? It's new but it still wasn't charging. I was "told" it could be a connection to the ignition switch. Also, the blocking diode is good. You never said if you tested the stator and the output results? Bad stator = no charge even with good R/R. Simply test to see if blocking diode is good, jump it and start the scooter and check for charge at the battery, oh BTW when you jump it the headlights will come on, don't panic. If stator is good and R/R and jumping the blocking diode gives you charging voltage then you'll know what's going on.
JR
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 2, 2013 20:21:22 GMT -5
Well what I've done, is I've tested all the legs of the stator with the engine idling. I'm getting juice but it ran out of fuel before I could bring the RPM's up and test voltage. I'm not charging at the battery. The blocking diode has been checked with a meter. Continuity one way, none the other....
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 2, 2013 23:46:52 GMT -5
Ok, tonight, I tested all the legs and reved it.... Voltage is good... about 40v when Idling, and it goes up to 100 or so when rev'ed. All three legs are the same.... I'm thinking a bad RR even tho it's new. I'll jump the blocking diode tomorrow night and see what it does... I'm thinking that part is ok, cuase we did a continity check on it and it was blocking one way.... and made continuity the other way. It would be nice if it was just a bad RR
The laundry list continues..... it has a bad valve stem as well... guess I'll be busting down rims sometime next weekend. Gonna replace front and back valve stems, and paint the exhaust system. Along with a starter solenoid and brake switches....
I did a stator test video tonight, but I'm not happy with it... I need to get one of my friends over to hold the camera.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 3, 2013 1:25:37 GMT -5
More video..... You can actually see my old vintage meter in the back... |
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Post by JR on Dec 3, 2013 12:25:07 GMT -5
Good news on the stator and while you got her stripped and have plans for a stereo/amp upgrade you'll need to make sure you do some things to allow enough voltage/amp savings to accommodate it.
LED's all through the system and a possible fan upgrade along with getting rid of the blocking diode. Why? The stator on this engine is just not as strong as the sister linhai 250.
If you know how to test for amp draw then check the fan with a good hot battery, if it's the OEM fan then it'll pull from 5 to 6 amps. One can replace it with a just as efficient fan that pulls half the amps, a big thing if you ever decide to put HID's on it. We have a long thread at Professor on the electrical system upgrades and it does help.
Testing the R/R is simple, since you know the stator is good take a reading on the red wire of the R/R with it running and that will tell ya what you need to, know.
JR
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Post by oldchopperguy on Dec 3, 2013 15:04:23 GMT -5
I am thinking a blue metal-flake (rustoluem), with white and yellow, real flame (air brushed). Let me know how the clear goes. I love rustoluem. I actually have a k-5 blazer I did a roller paint job on using rustoluem... If done right, you can actually get a smooth finish with a roller... We won't talk about wet sanding between coats on that beast! I got to where I could do the whole truck in about 4hours. On my bike, I'm not looking for perfection, just nice. I've started painting the black plastics (floor boards and center hump, along with dash.... I might re-do it tho, I used gloss and I think it would look better flat or satin. I'm doing a few red-neck carbon fiber pieces (got a roll of 3m "carbon fiber" vinyl coming, already have "carbon fiber" mirrors and just did my cramp buster for kicks and giggles with some scraps I had laying around. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt! For all the members out there cringing at the thought, trust the old chopper guy; it DOES work! In the fifties, we did several cars that way and the finished product looked as good as the finest sprayed-enamel paint. Wet-sanded and rubbed out between coats, it can rival a professional lacquer job!Also, if you want a sweet, subtle metalflake look that rivals the Chinese factory flake, here's a simple trick I used with GREAT success on a vintage Schwinn fat-tire bike restoration. I used black Rustoleum enamel for the main color (you could use blue, red or whatever you like) and applied super-fine "glitter" available at Wally World in their craft section. (This "glitter" comes in a coarse "kid's toy" grade, AND a super-fine "dust" which is BEAUTIFUL). I mixed several colors together on a creased piece of paper, and gently blew it evenly onto the black enamel while it was still tacky. For any areas requiring more glitter "fill-in" I pinched some between my thumb and finger and sprinkled it from a few feet up, letting it "flutter" down onto the paint. IT'S EASY! A couple of coats of gloss-clear over it and it was perfect! The fine glitter is SO fine that only a few coats of clear smooth the finish with no "gritty" roughness in the clear. That super-fine metalflake is so subtle, you barely notice it until in bright sunlight... Then, it sparkles like diamonds! You must use the super-fine stuff though, not the coarse, or it will take a load of clear to smooth out, and it might look like a cheap greeting card. The super-fine glitter comes in tiny vials on a blister-pack card and it's nearly as fine as talcum-powder. The technique allows you to use ANY kind of base color you like. You're not limited to factory-mixed flake colors.Worth a try! It worked for me!Leo (still washing glitter outta my jeans) in Texas |
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 3, 2013 23:03:17 GMT -5
I am thinking a blue metal-flake (rustoluem), with white and yellow, real flame (air brushed). Let me know how the clear goes. I love rustoluem. I actually have a k-5 blazer I did a roller paint job on using rustoluem... If done right, you can actually get a smooth finish with a roller... We won't talk about wet sanding between coats on that beast! I got to where I could do the whole truck in about 4hours. On my bike, I'm not looking for perfection, just nice. I've started painting the black plastics (floor boards and center hump, along with dash.... I might re-do it tho, I used gloss and I think it would look better flat or satin. I'm doing a few red-neck carbon fiber pieces (got a roll of 3m "carbon fiber" vinyl coming, already have "carbon fiber" mirrors and just did my cramp buster for kicks and giggles with some scraps I had laying around. Been there, done that, got the T-shirt! For all the members out there cringing at the thought, trust the old chopper guy; it DOES work! In the fifties, we did several cars that way and the finished product looked as good as the finest sprayed-enamel paint. Wet-sanded and rubbed out between coats, it can rival a professional lacquer job!Also, if you want a sweet, subtle metalflake look that rivals the Chinese factory flake, here's a simple trick I used with GREAT success on a vintage Schwinn fat-tire bike restoration. I used black Rustoleum enamel for the main color (you could use blue, red or whatever you like) and applied super-fine "glitter" available at Wally World in their craft section. (This "glitter" comes in a coarse "kid's toy" grade, AND a super-fine "dust" which is BEAUTIFUL). I mixed several colors together on a creased piece of paper, and gently blew it evenly onto the black enamel while it was still tacky. For any areas requiring more glitter "fill-in" I pinched some between my thumb and finger and sprinkled it from a few feet up, letting it "flutter" down onto the paint. IT'S EASY! A couple of coats of gloss-clear over it and it was perfect! The fine glitter is SO fine that only a few coats of clear smooth the finish with no "gritty" roughness in the clear. That super-fine metalflake is so subtle, you barely notice it until in bright sunlight... Then, it sparkles like diamonds! You must use the super-fine stuff though, not the coarse, or it will take a load of clear to smooth out, and it might look like a cheap greeting card. The super-fine glitter comes in tiny vials on a blister-pack card and it's nearly as fine as talcum-powder. The technique allows you to use ANY kind of base color you like. You're not limited to factory-mixed flake colors.Worth a try! It worked for me!Leo (still washing glitter outta my jeans) in Texas Leo, what a bunch of cool idea's... I like the metal flake one.... gonna have to try that on something. |
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Post by oldchopperguy on Dec 5, 2013 1:45:57 GMT -5
Urbanmadness,
I can almost guaranty you'll love the super-fine metalflake technique. I tried it since it seemed like a good idea. (Trying to simulate the factory black with flake paint on my Chinese scooter...) Surprisingly, it turned out to actually BE a good idea! REALLY good! LOL! It's CHEAP. It's EASY. You can do it OUTDOORS in a light breeze... Talk about a "win-win" situation! And with some glossy clear, it looks like a high-end factory finish. My old Schwinn resto was done on my porch, in the kitchen, wherever weather and space allowed, and it still came out so good that guys ask me where did I get the paint done! SWEET!
Just my experience, but I used both Rustoleum AND Krylon clear. I found they both gave great finishes, but the Rustoleum took 4-ever to dry... The Krylon only took a lifetime... LOL!
Hope you have great results, whatever you try!
Sincerely,
Leo in Texas
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 5, 2013 9:23:18 GMT -5
For anyone wondering.... what a roller paint job looks like..... yup, it was done with Rusoluem and high density rollers and a lot of elbow grease....
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Post by spandi on Dec 5, 2013 12:13:30 GMT -5
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