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Post by JR on Dec 5, 2013 13:02:20 GMT -5
Just to let you know others including myself know what this engine's stator will and will not do:
www.thescooterprofessor.proboards.com/thread/3202/jonway-yy250t-charging
40W = 3.33 amps, without complete LED change out and fan upgrade, it's not happening. Again this fan draws 6+ amps. and can be changed to a better 3 amp draw fan, with this the 40W system will be a wash.
Also the poster in that thread which I made a PDF out of if you'll read can only run one HID headlight for any distance before they lose ground and he's the one who got the Oregon Cycle R/R going for folks a good time back.
Other options are rewinding the stator to put out more, been there done that too. Again this stator doesn't stack up to the 18 pole stator that's in the linhai.
JR
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Post by spandi on Dec 5, 2013 13:13:55 GMT -5
Oh I agree with you, (I myself did the all LED switch-out and fan upgrade) But I was thinking along with that, (sorry if I left it unsaid) if you could get a low wattage system with good sound (and waterproof to boot) why not? As for the R/R, unit I still just use standard headlight bulbs with it. Unfortunately (for Honda clone scoots) the Linhai stator is bigger and able to through out more amps
P.S. I read the pdf, and it says he loved the R/R unit from OMP, but it seems his stator didn't have enough juice to keep up? (did he not also state that he believed he was running with a bad battery, and then a low amp unit at the time of his power drop?)
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 5, 2013 16:53:27 GMT -5
is it possible to upgrade? They do have an 18pole on scrappydawgs web site for the cf250. Can the stator be changed out or would the bike need to be rewired at that point. I would of thought the charging system on the 250's would of been a bit more robust. I guess I know what to do with the hole in the kneeboard where the stereo "head unit" is currently installed. I'll get a gauge pod and install an amp gauge....
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Post by spandi on Dec 5, 2013 17:00:23 GMT -5
Boy if someone started marketing a 244cc stator upgrade they'd sell out in a week. BTW in reading the pdf it looks like they took the guts out of the lower amp fan unit, shaved the blades off and stuffed it into the Chinese housing? I figured something was up as the diameter of the upgraded fan was over 8 inches.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 5, 2013 17:22:53 GMT -5
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Post by spandi on Dec 5, 2013 17:44:42 GMT -5
Hmm, looks like your seller has a good feedback rating and at just 20 watts won't tax the system, you just have to find some nice speakers to match.  |
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 5, 2013 18:09:52 GMT -5
It's a chinese bike.... it gets a chinese amp... LOL... it's fused at 2 amps, which is about the same as the stock one. For now, I'll just use the stock speakers.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 5, 2013 21:06:30 GMT -5
Can I do the happy dance yet? Put the meter on the red wire coming out of the RR and to the neg term of the batt. With the engine off, no volts... with it running 13 volts, which is what I have at the battery right now. I'm not under load right now, as the nose if off the bike, so no headlight/tail lights. The fan did kick on, and no, noticable volt drop. Maybe .1 volts at most? The thing that worries me, is I don't see voltage moving up when revved but I don't see any dropping either. didn't try jumping the blocking diode yet. She's still a little cold blooded... probably needs a valve adjustment or the enricher isn't working or maybe a little richer on the A/F. Once warm she runs good. Nice to know the fan is working...  one less thing to worry about. |
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Post by spandi on Dec 5, 2013 21:58:10 GMT -5
Are you gonna do the LED's? That should help keep you in the margin of safety.
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Post by JR on Dec 5, 2013 21:59:03 GMT -5
Oh I agree with you, (I myself did the all LED switch-out and fan upgrade) But I was thinking along with that, (sorry if I left it unsaid) if you could get a low wattage system with good sound (and waterproof to boot) why not? As for the R/R, unit I still just use standard headlight bulbs with it. Unfortunately (for Honda clone scoots) the Linhai stator is bigger and able to through out more amps P.S. I read the pdf, and it says he loved the R/R unit from OMP, but it seems his stator didn't have enough juice to keep up? (did he not also state that he believed he was running with a bad battery, and then a low amp unit at the time of his power drop?) Basically the new R/R allowed him to get all the stator would put out. We need to remember rectifier regulator. The OEM regulators are set at a medium as if the voltage climbs so high (if not needed) it shunts the excess to ground and if needed allows more from the stator. By working with the fellow at Oregon cycle he was able to produce a R/R that would have a higher top set point to allow more amps/voltage in the end but again this stator only will put out so much.
Yes Todd did put a better battery on, with this scooter a good 12ah to 14ah battery makes a big difference, myself even with the linhai I use a 14ah jet ski battery, reason? More ah/cca can buy one that will still fit the battery case and a better battery will give you up to 3 good years of service.
After all the smoke cleared he put on a
better R/R better fan replaced diode with relay (gains up to .7amps) better battery all LEDs replaced some wiring with heavier gauge wiring
End result, even with fan running and one HID on he could hold 13.5Vdc charge all day long.
JR
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Post by spandi on Dec 5, 2013 22:39:55 GMT -5
Outstanding. BTW, you wouldn't know just how much of that 12 gauge wire he used in the stator upgrade? Thanks.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 7, 2013 4:08:42 GMT -5
Tonight I did a valve adjustment and replaced the enricher. Seems to start a bit better when cold. I will play with it tomorrow morning to be sure. I'm still not real confident in the charging system. Might loose the stereo system altogether and instead of ordering a new amp for it, order a new knee panel for it instead. The bike is running better and better. I'm still a touch lean on the idle mixture, but it's getting there, probably another 1/4-1/2 turn on the a/f screw and she will be good. A/F adjustments are a real pain on this one, as the AF screw is under the carb and getting to it while the carb is on the bike is a real bugger. I bought a "bent" screwdriver tonight, to see if that will work, but I may have to grind it down a little to make it work.
Fully plumbed in the new petcock. It's still on the wrong side of the bike, but everything seems to be working ok. The new petcock had a vent port, the old one didn't. So since most of the emissions gear was removed from the bike at some point in it's life, I took the vent line from the tank that went to the charcoal canister and just plumbed that to the vent port on the petcock. I think it will work ok at least so far it seem to work alright.
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Post by JR on Dec 8, 2013 12:55:07 GMT -5
Outstanding. BTW, you wouldn't know just how much of that 12 gauge wire he used in the stator upgrade? Thanks. If memory serves me correct he did the R/R output wire to the battery and all the fan wiring and when he put HID's on he used it there also. Even though one doesn't need to use wire that is too big in the science of electricity one thing is always true, it can be too small but never too big.
JR
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Post by spandi on Dec 8, 2013 14:33:19 GMT -5
Thanks JR. I'm in contact with a dealer to get 12 gauge wire as a replacement and I needed to give them an idea of what length.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 11, 2013 22:30:25 GMT -5
well, I have a brake line leaking.... dang it... two steps forward, and one step back...
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