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Post by mojo89 on Nov 17, 2013 13:31:08 GMT -5
10500 km on the bike now, my second (stock) belt just shredded yesterday, but it's ok because I was planning on rebuilding the whole cvt system with performance parts since all the stock parts are worn out to the max. The engine still cranks, starts, and runs great, barring a minor oil leak from the gasket on the rear of the crank case near the oil plug.
Roller weights rattle like crazy when it gets to high rpm's; variator face has a groove in it where the belt sits at high gear, causing it to fail to downshift from time to time; the clutch engages at much too low of an rpm because the pads and springs are worn so badly; combined with the variator problem, this stalls the bike when I come to a stop from top speed (~40 mph) without letting it coast with no throttle for about 20 feet first. It also causes the shift to high gear to occur at about 20 mph instead of 30, robbing me of some vital acceleration and no doubt pissing off a few people on the road. One other symptom is that when idling, the clutch will engage slightly, pulling a little bit and wearing the pads out further.
I'm thinking of purchasing a kevlar belt for 30, an NCY brand cvt kit for about 150, and a small 12v impact wrench so I don't have to use my other tools for things they weren't meant for. Also thinking of some sliding roller weights from Dr. Pulley and some 1500 rpm clutch springs.
I'm posting this for any advice on what to watch out for, what else to check while I'm in there, any tricks or tips about the procedure, and any reviews of products and tools you may have to offer. Also, I will update my progress with pictures and include my own (beginner) review of any products I end up using for everyone's information, since I didn't find any posts yet for this specific project.
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Post by ramblinman on Nov 17, 2013 16:54:24 GMT -5
i recently replaced the clutch, variator, roller weights and belt on my atm50. one of the pads on the old clutch broke in two which left the clutch constantly engaged. i spent the extra money for a gates belt but everything else i got generic parts off of ebay.
before my clutch broke it would top out at 50mph on the speedometer. with the new parts i could only get to about 35mph. i tried 5, 6, 8 gram wieghts and finally put three 6gram, three 8gram. none of the roller weights changed top speed, just my takeoff speed. apparently the clutch springs have a big impact on performance.
i thought about changing the springs from my old clutch but just never got around to it... now that the new parts have some wear on them my top speed is approaching 50mph once again. (probably 43-45 actual, idk) i'm guessing my new clutch torque spring was too stiff.
good luck with your project.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2013 18:00:17 GMT -5
I got a complete clutch and bell from scrappy for about 30 bucks. He has weights etc.
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 17, 2013 18:27:36 GMT -5
What stronger springs do is require higher rpms before they get thrown out to grab the bell. Just like a car with a clutch you push the clutch in and rev the motor and then pop the clutch.
A stronger Contra Spring keeps your belt In the lower variator range longer and drops it down quicker after you go down in speed. Here again it requires more rpms to reach top speed.
Alleyoop
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Post by mojo89 on Nov 17, 2013 21:53:28 GMT -5
 here is the before pic, hope it links correctly. My speedometer reads at about ten mph more than actual when it gets up to 30mph or higher, when it says 45 I'm actually doing 37, when it says 50 I'm doing 40, so I know what you mean. I even replaced the little sensor with the worm gear inside and it still reads that way. Both my contra spring and my actuator springs (is that what they're called?) that hold the arms of the clutch pad in are worn; since it's all worn out, I'm just doing it all at once and seeing how 1500 rpm springs affect my takeoff. I'll use the same weight sliders as the rollers I have now, whatever it happens to be, since it gives plenty of power throughout all rpms (before the parts wore out I was pegging the speedo needle, doing an actual 45-50 mph downhill with the stock parts! Maybe that's why it wore out so quick... for the record, I'm 130 lbs) I've seen scrappy's website, it's basically stock parts, and I actually live fairly close to a physical taotao distribution center that I can buy the same parts at those prices, except for the different weight rollers. I'm going with the more expensive parts because I want to run them harder and replace them less often, that is the hope, please give me a heads up if I'm wrong. Also, I'm replacing my whole variator, clutch pads+bell, and belt, not just the clutch and the bell, and 150 is an average price for the whole kit. I'm doing the air filter while I'm at it, I've done a few other upgrades to the bike already, mostly just replacing stock parts one by one as they rattle to pieces. |
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 17, 2013 22:20:27 GMT -5
The way you ride the only advice I have is get a quality belt Gates or Bando. You pay a little more but they will hold up a lot better and can take a lot of heat. Also once In a while check out the CVT and if dusty clean it out the dust in there also contributes to the heat. If you see the belt is get Frayed on the sides order another one asap.
Alleyoop
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Post by mojo89 on Nov 18, 2013 21:32:57 GMT -5
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Post by alleyoop on Nov 18, 2013 22:25:28 GMT -5
Well the only one I would not have gotten is the 12v impact wrench if your battery is not fully charged it will effect the impact wrench. I would have gotten the 120v plug in house socket one.
As far as the CVT kit one only says it is compatible with the KYMCO Agility 50 while the other list many scoots, including the KYMCO Agility 50?? So either they are playing games or there is a difference someplace and the only difference would be the size of the shaft and number of splines. As far as the springs are concerned they do charge you more if they put in stronger clutch pad springs.
I would either call them or email them for an explanation.
Alleyoop
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Post by JerryScript on Nov 18, 2013 23:51:22 GMT -5
Well the only one I would not have gotten is the 12v impact wrench if your battery is not fully charged it will effect the impact wrench. I would have gotten the 120v plug in house socket one. I'm very happy with my 12v impact wrench. It only takes 2-3 hits and the nut is loose, so it really doesn't take much juice from the battery. I carry it under my seat with a socket set, and a spare belt strapped to the frame, so I know I will never be stranded on the side of the road by a belt failure. |
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Post by mojo89 on Dec 8, 2013 16:52:57 GMT -5
So I got my bike running more smoothly than it was brand new, as expected for paying that much for the parts. Having trouble uploading photos, but here are some problems that I encountered and what their solutions were:
1. In order to take apart my rear clutch assembly after I removed it from the bike (using my electric impact wrench), I used a 1 3/4" adjustable wrench. There's a youtube video that shows the technique, basically you put your big ol wrench on the nut that holds the contra spring in place and whack it on the ground while holding the assembly with your hands to loosen it. Hey, it works. Wish I'd gotten a large enough socket so I could use my impact wrench for it though.
2. At first I didn't replace my rear clutch pulleys, because I didn't want to damage anything while attempting to take off the spring seat, but I had to since it ripped my brand new belt to shreds within a mile of running it. Thus I had to buy another new belt and a new stock clutch assembly since my upgrade kit only came with the moving pulley face, no retaining pins or stationary pulley face. Once I got that together it all ran quite well, smooth and quiet.
3. My spring seat was stuck on the back of the moving pulley face due to the grease inside it wearing out, so I couldn't remove it until I pried it off with a few screwdrivers. This exposed the retaining pins, which were so worn down that it allowed a lot of wiggling and was the cause of the rattle that I had been hearing since I replaced my first belt, also the cause of my second and third belts slipping and being shredded.
Altogether, I learned a lot about my bike, and now have a few extra parts and all the tools I need to replace its transmission. And the experience was fun.
SUCCESS!!!!
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Post by larry001964 on Dec 8, 2013 18:42:35 GMT -5
Well the only one I would not have gotten is the 12v impact wrench if your battery is not fully charged it will effect the impact wrench. I would have gotten the 120v plug in house socket one. I'm very happy with my 12v impact wrench. It only takes 2-3 hits and the nut is loose, so it really doesn't take much juice from the battery. I carry it under my seat with a socket set, and a spare belt strapped to the frame, so I know I will never be stranded on the side of the road by a belt failure. Well I agree, I'm very happy with my 12V Impact.. Last time I actually used it, I was doing a complete top end rebuild on Fawke's new engine.. I used it on just about every bolt. When I was done, did a compression check, put the engine back in the scooter, dropped the same battery i used to power the impact, hit the button and the engine fired right up.. So based on that I don't believe they use that much power.. |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
