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Post by scoots on Sept 25, 2013 10:24:44 GMT -5
whats the best way to tune the CVT with the diffrent springs
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Post by ltdhpp on Sept 25, 2013 11:13:44 GMT -5
Buy different ones, try them, and see what you like.
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 25, 2013 11:22:29 GMT -5
They have Contra Springs rated at 1000, 1500 and 2000. Just remember it will require more rpms to get to top end speed and also when the scoot starts to move. Example: If currently your scoot starts to move at 2500 rpms: 1. 1000 rated Contra Spring = 3500 rpms 2. 1500 rated Contra Spring = 4000 rpms 3. 2000 rated Contra Spring = 4500 rpms Same applies to your 3 Clutch Arm Springs. Alleyoop
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Post by f4milytime on Sept 25, 2013 13:24:52 GMT -5
Use one 1 red, 1 white, 1 blue. ;p Nah !! I'm just messing around, try different ones out.
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Post by phssthpok on Sept 25, 2013 14:51:50 GMT -5
They have Contra Springs rated at 1000, 1500 and 2000. Just remember it will require more rpms to get to top end speed and also when the scoot starts to move. Example: If currently your scoot starts to move at 2500 rpms: 1. 1000 rated Contra Spring = 3500 rpms 2. 1500 rated Contra Spring = 4000 rpms 3. 2000 rated Contra Spring = 4500 rpms Same applies to your 3 Clutch Arm Springs. Alleyoop I'll confess to still being on a learning curve as to the functioning of the typical CVT found on scooters, but.... this doesn't quite mesh with my understanding. To start, I'm presuming that the Contra-spring in question is the single large coil spring that presses the two halves of the REAR pulley together. (If this is wrong then the rest of this post can pretty much be ignored) I've seen the function of this spring explained as causing the rear pulley to remain in the 'closed' position longer, preventing the belt from forcing it 'open' (in direct opposition to the efforts of the three weights in the variator to do just that), resulting not only in an extended time in a 'lower gear', but also improving 'downshift' when coming 'off throttle'. As I understand it, the point at which your scoot begins to move will be when power is applied to the drive wheel via the clutch-bell as the three clutch arms swing out to engage it. These three clutch arms are 'held back' by three smaller double-hooked coil-springs until sufficient RPM-induced centrifugal force causes them to swing out and engage said clutch bell. As I stated before, I'm still learning how these things work, so if I'm 'off' in my understanding...be gentle!
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 25, 2013 15:14:27 GMT -5
That's is correct, but in either case MORE RPMS are required. If a stronger Contra spring is put in then MORE RPMS are required to open the Clutch pulley to pull the belt down the pullein. The Clutch Arm springs same MORE RPMS are required to have the arms swing out and grab the bell to actually turn the wheel. Alleyoop
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Post by phssthpok on Sept 25, 2013 15:48:49 GMT -5
I realize that no matter what the spring's function is in the clutch, higher spring rates will require higher RPM for them to actually perform that function. My question was regarding the specific statement "...and also when the scoot starts to move."
I know this may seem overly pedantic and perhaps a little argumentative, but I'm really just trying to make sure I'm grokking this correctly.
It seems to me that if you put the strongest contra spring (the red one IIRC) in the clutch, but retained the stock clutch-arm springs...then the scoot would still not 'start to move' at a higher RPM, since the clutch arms would engage the bell (and pass power through to the wheel) at the same RPM as before.
The difference of having the stronger contra spring would lie in how long the front/rear pulley ratio would remain in 'low' gear, with the contra spring resisting the variator's attempt to close and pull the belt deeper into the rear pulley (by forcing it open), and how quickly it 'downshifts' as RPM drops.
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 25, 2013 16:09:23 GMT -5
No even with the a Stronger contra Spring it will require MORE RPMS before the scoot starts to move. I have done it all, clutch springs, contra springs, weights up the gazzo, longer belt even cut down the BOSS. Also tried different performance Variators and even Different Clutchs. Same with CDIs I finally found what I needed, a CDI that advances around 3000 rpms and not at low rpms. In addition to taller gears in the tranny. So I am not talking out of my rear I am talking from actual experience and trial and error to fine how I wanted my Trike to run. My Trike you can ease up on the throttle and it will start to move at right around 2300 rpms. I put in a 1000 rated Contra and it started to move at 3500 rpms. My Clutch is a NCY Performance Clutch with extra longer pads on it. I changed out the Springs to OEM did not like the higher rpms required for my use to cruise around 35-40 with the motor just purring at low rpms 4-4.5K. At 50mph it will run at 5100-5200 at 60 it will run at 6100-6200, at 65 it runs right around 6800-6900 had it up to 70 at right around 7300 but that is a little to fast for me on the trike.
So around here just 50-60 to keep up with traffic is all I really need and I still have some left over if needed. If it was a heavy harley no problem. Alleyoop
I just sold a DV2 Variator that I bought
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Post by phssthpok on Sept 26, 2013 18:35:31 GMT -5
Sorry...I'm still not grokking how that could be. *) Could you maybe explain the mechanics of it?
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 26, 2013 20:01:13 GMT -5
70 at 7300 rpm! Seriously?! Even Chinometer 70? Mine is doing over 8000 at Chinometer 50! I've got work to do... D8
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