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Post by kevfra on Sept 22, 2013 11:22:43 GMT -5
300 miles on a new Znen BMS 150.
At about 200 miles it developed an oil leak from engine, not final drive. Cleaned and tracked - it's from the case half, gasket, not from end seals. About one-tenth ounce per ride, maybe less, not too bad - yet.
My question is this ... Is this just something we live with on these engines? Should I even try to get warranty relief or just accept these thing drip oil?
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 22, 2013 17:59:57 GMT -5
I meticulously rebuilt the top end of a Znen 150 at 1000 miles and it still has a drip after pulling the engine 3 times and re-sealing it. I gave up and learned to live with it.
You'll have to decide if pursuing the warranty is a viable option depending on where and how you bought it. You may just be able to re-torque the case bolts to get it to stop. Or maybe not.
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Post by rockynv on Sept 22, 2013 21:09:28 GMT -5
I went through that with my Znen 150 and found that the leak was due to micro cracks in the timing chain area of the head. I stopped guessing and pressurized the crankcase with a few psi of air pressure via the valve cover vent spraying it down with soapy water after removing the cooling shroud so the air bubbles would reveal the leaks and not one gasket or seal that I suspected was actually leaking. The air bubbles were foaming up in the middle of the timing chain area away from any seams or gaskets.
Lance warned me when I called them that this was a common issue with the Znen 150 and that you had to go light and greatly reduce the torque specs on the 2 bolts on the outside of the head and just snug them to prevent the head from cracking there when it heated up. Light use of white rvt sealant in that area on both sides of the gasket was recommeded.
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Post by pmatulew on Sept 23, 2013 7:25:44 GMT -5
Yep, my leak is around the timing chain seam. Oh trust me, by attempt #3 I stoned all the mating surfaces and have as much RTV on there as I dared without having it clog up the oil passages. Maybe it is micro cracks in the casting. It isn't losing much oil. Just enough to be messy and collect dirt.
The original poster believes he has a leak lower down in the case halves. That's much less common and would be a bigger chore to separate and re-seal.
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Post by frankn on Sept 23, 2013 8:39:26 GMT -5
i have a tao tao 150 ,after a ride i have a , drop or 2 at bottom of the case at the oil drain plug ,i dip a paper towel in gas and wipe the case down end of story,ive was told they all weep  |
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Post by scootnwinn on Sept 23, 2013 10:41:54 GMT -5
If I had a bike under warranty leaking oil I would be on the phone immediately. Why on earth would you just accept it?? Make them fix it.
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Post by kevfra on Sept 23, 2013 14:47:28 GMT -5
If I had a bike under warranty leaking oil I would be on the phone immediately. Why on earth would you just accept it?? Make them fix it. Because it takes all but a lawsuit to get warranty performance. And if this is a common thing that likely means a new or reworked case is just going to leak so why bother? It may be a chronic problem and no sense beating my head against the wall because of it. |
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Post by scootnwinn on Sept 23, 2013 15:43:51 GMT -5
Wow! One of the reasons I actually sold my Chinese scoot is because it leaked oil. Oil leaks on 2 wheeled vehicles are far more serious of an issue than on a car. Even more so on a scooter. You are basically leaking oil directly on to your rear tire. Last I heard it was the rear tire's job to grip the road. You would think being coated in an oz. of oil every 1000 miles would hinder this.
If you haven't called yet how do you know it won't work. It seems like your particular case is not common your life should be worth at least one try. If I bought a new vehicle that developed an oil leak at 200 miles I would pilot it into the ear of the person who sold it to me if they didn't fix it immediately.
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