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Post by chris9183 on Sept 20, 2013 9:47:18 GMT -5
So not long ago I replaced all the gaskets in my GY6 150cc to fix an oil leak in the oil pan. Well here I am a few months later with an oil leak again, coming from almost the same place. I'm not using an oil thats too thin either, but I am using synthetic.
Anyway, this thing shouldn't be leaking like this. I'm planning to replace the gaskets again, but I wanted to ask you guys if I should also put a thin layer of gasket maker or some other substance on the edges of the metal along with the new gaskets, or should I just use the gaskets alone again? I've heard a lot of people say just using the gaskets alone isn't good enough, and I'm starting to believe it.
So which should I do: just use the gaskets alone, or coat the gaskets with a gasket maker or some other compound?
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Post by f4milytime on Sept 20, 2013 11:21:07 GMT -5
If gaskets alone failed you before, it couldn't hurt to try and use some type of rtv sealant. Me personally on my scoot, I've never used any sealant on any of my gaskets, but I do rub a little bit of oil on them. Luckily I've hadn't had any problems YET, with gasket leaks (knock on wood) LOL !!! Aloha !!!
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Post by alleyoop on Sept 20, 2013 11:32:41 GMT -5
Where exactly is the leak,
On the plate behind the stator? or between the casing? It could also be leaking from the Crank Oil seal.
Synthetic oils are very fine and they will find any tiny outlet. You can try adding 1 OZ of gasket sealer in your oil and see if it seals it. Get the gasket sealer that is liquid just like your oil do not buy the gasket sealers that have a consistency of syrup.
Alleyoop
Alleyoop
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Post by chris9183 on Sept 20, 2013 14:39:20 GMT -5
The oil leak is pretty considerable...letting the engine idle for 10 mins from a cold start produces 3+ large drops of oil.
I'm gonna try some gasket sealer first to see if I can save myself the trouble of taking the engine out and replacing the gaskets again...it's such a pain on my particular scooter.
Oh and the leak is between the casing.
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Post by chris9183 on Sept 20, 2013 14:54:54 GMT -5
Hey I was wondering, is gasket sealer a long-term solution or does it kinda wear off after awhile?
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Post by sailracer on Sept 20, 2013 15:07:51 GMT -5
It's better(IMO) to use the gaskets dry. some gasket sealer/cements actually attack the gasket material.(especially on base gaskets, where you compress them.A light coat of oil and torque to spec, and most gaskets are fine without any help from cements.
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Post by spandi on Sept 20, 2013 15:11:05 GMT -5
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Post by sailracer on Sept 20, 2013 15:57:30 GMT -5
says its for use with no solid gasket
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Post by rockynv on Sept 21, 2013 7:04:02 GMT -5
Oil leaks can be deceiving and may not be comming from where you think. On the GY6 I chase them down by putting an airline on the valve cover vent and pressurise the crankcase to a few (1 to 3) psi so that when sprayed with some soapy water the exact location of the leak will be revealed where the bubbles form. I know this is old timey but my Dad taught me this method for revealing leaks 50 years ago and it still works for me.
Many times it is not a seal or gasket but a hairline crack or pourous area in the side of the head where the timing chain is. That area is very thin and if the two bolts on the lip that are bolted to the cylinder are over tightened the thin casting can start to craze and seep oil which will be moved around by the cooling fan and drip at misleading locations.
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Post by chris9183 on Sept 21, 2013 7:17:33 GMT -5
Thanks for the replies so far.
I've definitely tracked this oil leak to the oilpan, I can let it idle from a cold start and lay under it and watch the oil begin to form from that casing split and drop from there...I've felt up the side of the case to make sure it's not streaming from somewhere like the head, it's definitely not, there's no residue.
I bought some gasket sealer (not syrupy, has the consistency of my oil) and put slightly over 1oz of it in my oil last night. It says it takes 300ish miles to take effect though, so I guess for now I'll just be riding like normal. Hope it works! I dread the thought of taking the engine back out and replacing the gaskets again, I just did it a few months ago. If it doesn't work after 300 miles, I'm gonna try switching to regular dino oil instead of synthetic to see if it stops leaking (as well as adding another 1oz of that sealer to it).
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Post by sailracer on Sept 21, 2013 19:38:07 GMT -5
Oil leaks can be deceiving and may not be comming from where you think. On the GY6 I chase them down by putting an airline on the valve cover vent and pressurise the crankcase to a few (1 to 3) psi so that when sprayed with some soapy water the exact location of the leak will be revealed where the bubbles form. I know this is old timey but my Dad taught me this method for revealing leaks 50 years ago and it still works for me. Many times it is not a seal or gasket but a hairline crack or pourous area in the side of the head where the timing chain is. That area is very thin and if the two bolts on the lip that are bolted to the cylinder are over tightened the thin casting can start to craze and seep oil which will be moved around by the cooling fan and drip at misleading locations. That's ingeneous! Shows you how valuable "OLD SCHOOL" is. Sometimes all the technology in the world cannot replace good old common sense |
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..BAD TO THE BONE..
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