testing the charging system?  By  scootdoggydog (Read 3,554 times)

howdy, you should never-never be reading 17 volts when reading voltage from negative to positive terminals. if you do you will soon be smelling heated tuna fish smell and soon after disaster will strike. you need to get the regulator fixed.

lotsa miles and smiles to ya
ken

(*

[replyingto=scootdoggydog]scootdoggydog[/replyingto]If you continue to doubt all the advice (correct advice I might add) that you have received you will most definitely be purchasing a new battery as well as a new reg/rec to replace the one you just cooked by overcharging at 17 volts. I don't know why you insist on not believing the advice of everyone here, but go ahead and prove it to yourself the hard (and more expensive) way.

As a retired engineer with a BSEE degree I spek to this subject with q fairly good knowledge base. So as my last post on this subject I offer the following:

The output from the stator is AC (alternating current). The RECTIFIER converts the AC into DC (direct current). The higher the RPMs the higher the DC voltage from the RECTIFIER. This now rectified (DC) voltage is regulated to a maximum voltage of approximately 14.1 volts DC by the REGULATOR and applied to the battery.

A normal trickle charge voltage is in the range of 13.50 to 13.62 volts. The MAXIMUM charging voltage from the REGULATOR is in the neighborhood of 14.1 volts DC. Charging voltages in excess of 14.1 volts will result in out gassing and severe overheating of the battery. This overheating can cause shorted cells in the battery because the heat causes distortion of the separators between the lead plates. Shorted cells are one of the primary causes of the death of a battery.

If you need further info I suggest a course in basic DC electricity at your local community college.

And I have to tell you that link you put up THEY ARE WRONG BUD. Shows people that don't know should not be putting up stuff that is bad information.

And again you just said you have a DC SYSTEM.

Ok lets PROVE IT OK?? are you willing to do a quick test for me? Because you are saying you have a DC system and that your scoot runs without a battery(which would have to be a AC SYSTEM).

Give me your answer All you need it either a 12V TEST LIGHT or a VOLT METER set to DC.
Are you willing to do the quick and easy test and that will TELL EVERYONE ON HERE that knows whether yours is a DC SYSTEM or AC SYSTEM.
GIVE ME YOUR ANSWER YEA OR NAY.
Alleyoop

Maybe I can clear up some of the confusion and answer your original question?

First of all I see in your signature you have the 150 Roketa a 07 model and it did not come with an 11 pole stator so I have to presume you did the 11 pole stator with the 7-pin R/R?

What I think the confusion is what is really AC or DC? When I say a scooter is AC I mean the CDI system is AC powered and the scooter will run without the aid of a battery or stator charging as long as the CDI dedicated coil is putting out the necessary AC to the CDI and the pulse coil is good.

DC systems are those that have 12Vdc supplied to the CDI via the battery and will not run with out this DC voltage and if the battery slips to a low range of under 10.5 Vdc the engine will not start or run thus the charging system must work to keep the battery at the voltage necessary to power the CDI.





The 11-coil stator is AC. It has 3 yellow (charging wires), ground, a pulse coil and CDI feed wire. DC powered CDI systems will only 3 charging wires, a ground and a single pulse coil wire going to the CDI. The CDI power comes for the battery.



Now you asked the proper way to test the stator and R/R. Since the 11 pole stator is 3-phase you test it's output which is AC by checking the voltage from one leg to another and in this case the 3 yellow wires. The voltage must be the same on all 3 legs and the test should be like this:

Wire 1 to wire 2
Wire 1 to wire 3
Wire 2 to wire 3

At around 5k RPM the legs should read from 60 to 80Vac.

If the system is properly wired then testing the R/R should be done on the red wire going to the battery and at idle with a full load, (lights, etc.) it should read in the range of 13Vdc. At 5k or better it can and will read 14.5Vdc with a good fully charged battery which leads me to another point.

If the battery is a little on the low side the charging will increase, why? On the 7-pin R/R the black wire to the ignition reads charging demand and if their is a bigger load or the battery is NOT fully charged it will increase voltage output. Remember R/R = REGULATOR/RECTIFIER.

The 11-pole system is a AC output system but is like other scooter startor R/R systems the final result is DC to the battery and accessories. The typical scooter charging system uses a half/wave recticfier while a true DC system uses a different stator and a full wave rectifier.

One can actually do a full stator DC conversion but if you do so then you must use a full wave rectifier.

gallery.trailtech.net/media/instructions/lights/stators/AC-DC_Banshee_Stator_Conversion_Instructions.pdf

www.trailtech.net/regulator-rectifier

Also floating or no floating the ground is not a indication of a DC system. Full wave DC charging systems are not practical or cost effective for scooters or it would have already been done. Even the motorcycle DC conversion kits hit $400+.

Now if you are staying at 14.5 or so at a higher RPM with a amp load on it you'll be OK. I don't know if you use LED's or not but by going back to standard old 1157 bulbs you can add some amp load back to the system and help with over charging if that's what you have.

Also putting the auto choke on the white wire will add more amp load. Heck put you a radio on the scooter. Worse case scenario is go to Radio Shack and get a resistor or two and shunt some of the extra power to ground just like your R/R does.

JR

Does your CDI look like this?
Alleyoop

Yours may not have TWO GREEN GROUND wires just one.

But take your volt meter SET IT TO DC, TURN THE KEY ON DO NOT START THE SCOOTER and Ground the black wire on the VOLT METER and STICK the RED PROBE of the VOLT METER in the BOTTOM SLOT IN THE 2 PLUG on the CDI. IN the picture that is the RED AND BLACK WIRE
the power wire. Tell us what the VOLT METER READS.
Alleyoop