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Post by crawford on Aug 28, 2015 20:56:20 GMT -5
Looks really nice both of my 2015's red and white have been getting washed with blue coral the waxed hope not to paint it for a long time   |
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Post by flyangler on Aug 31, 2015 7:55:05 GMT -5
Ibtrikin, I have over 25 years in an automotive spray booth, I believe what has happened is the undercoat and the clear you used were incompatible, and the under coat is trying to come through the clear and making it appear cloudy and if this is the case and I think it is then putting more clear on will only add to the problem, it needs to be stripped down and repainted from scratch.  . |
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Post by beenriding on Aug 31, 2015 10:05:10 GMT -5
Ibtrikin, I have over 25 years in an automotive spray booth, I believe what has happened is the undercoat and the clear you used were incompatible, and the under coat is trying to come through the clear and making it appear cloudy and if this is the case and I think it is then putting more clear on will only add to the problem, it needs to be stripped down and repainted from scratch. . No one want's to accept that fact! I've been repainting my scoot for the last two weeks, sanding off a bad paint job from the last time. I don't have a ton of experience just a little knowledge. Sometimes everything works the way you want and other times it's a do-over. I've had to sand and paint my headlight cover three times because of the curves and angles it's really hard to see how it will look dry till it is. And it's like the hood of a car, the most visible part so I want it to look good. Had it looking just right, very small run on one side that I could live with, then the next morning I came out and most of it had bubbled/wrinkled up don't think I let the primer dry enough (that patience thing). Spent a couple hours sanding that off yesterday and will finish it up today then try once again. It's my last piece then I'm done. Wish me luck, I'll do the same for you.   |
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Post by ibtrikin on Sept 2, 2015 11:30:50 GMT -5
Ibtrikin, I have over 25 years in an automotive spray booth, I believe what has happened is the undercoat and the clear you used were incompatible, and the under coat is trying to come through the clear and making it appear cloudy and if this is the case and I think it is then putting more clear on will only add to the problem, it needs to be stripped down and repainted from scratch. . I agree. The parts I cleared with rustoleum clear(automotive) are fine. The clear I got from autozone is the one that clouded up. It's pretty much just the rear fenders, so it'll be a quick redo. |
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Post by gjb1969 on Aug 31, 2018 19:48:38 GMT -5
way to go its nice my icebear needs some paint to
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Post by oldchopperguy on Sept 1, 2018 9:59:48 GMT -5
And, since ibtrikin aint posted since sep last year, we may never know how the paint job held up. My bad guys. I've had back surgery and all sorts of stuff going on. Didn't mean to be away so long. The paint is holding up just fine, however, I'm going to wet sand and reclear it. The automotive clear coat I got at autozone turned milky :mad: I should've stuck with the rustoleum clear.
You really DO need to stick with a clear-coat that's compatible with your red... Rustoleum makes BOTH enamel AND lacquer these days. You can use enamel over most anything, but lacquer will craze and damage the paint underneath UNLESS it's also lacquer. Years ago, I stuck with automotive lacquer, lots of coats finally wet-sanded and rubbed-out, then polished. Looked great but today's enamel clear can give a beautiful finish without sanding or rubbing out. However, it MUST be TOTALLY hard and dry if any sanding or polishing IS needed (like sanding out a "run")… Rustoleum clear enamel may take WEEKS of seasoning in the outdoor sun before it will sand without turning to gum. Lacquer is fast-drying and forgiving, and when rubbed-out and polished it looks "factory". However, if you're careful to avoid dust and runs, enamel, OR lacquer, clear-coated with enamel can be spectacular, appearing almost "wet". Either paint can look fabulous... Just remember in general, "Enamel-over-lacquer" is OK. Lacquer-over-enamel usually is a disaster.
Also, "flyangler" offered some good advice. I've had that pesky primer-bleed-up-through phenomenon myself. Not common, but it DOES happen. I'd try careful sanding of the offending surfaces to see IF the milky condition can be sanded off. If not, and it goes all the way through the red, you will need to re-do, with totally-compatible primer, color and clear. If the milky look CAN be sanded off, I'd then clear-coat with enamel, which should not trigger the bleed-through.
Ride safe, and enjoy that slick trike!Leo in Texas |
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