Post by oldchopperguy on Aug 18, 2013 12:58:49 GMT -5
Here's a simple "how-to" with pix on connecting an LED headlight using the factory "dip-switch" and a "bridge-rectifier". It allows simple switching from factory "low-beam" 12VAC dims, to 12VDC LED headlight simply by using the factory rocker "dip-switch" as usual.
This covers only the connection and testing of the finished setup. I have not yet decided HOW or WHERE to mount the light... Also, my scooter is a 6-year-old Xingyue Eagle 150. Other scooters may use different color wires, but the concept should work on any model using 12VAC headlights.
First, remove enough screws to allow access to the high-low headlight "dip-switch" and the wires plugged into it.
screencast
Now, unplug the headlight wires from the switch so you can make the simple mods. On mine, BROWN is the POWER TO the switch, WHITE is the POWER FROM the switch to the low-beams, and BLUE is the POWER FROM the switch to the high-beams. THIS is the wire to insert the rectifier into, to convert to DC voltage.
program for screenshots for windows
Next, cut the wire to the factory high-beams (this is to allow inserting the 12VAC in, 12VDC out rectifier).
snagit
Just for reference, here is a photo showing the various wires before cutting the high-beam lead... YOUR scooter may use DIFFERENT color wires. You can check for power with a simple "probe" 12V auto test-light.
print screen
Here's the hookup: Connect the cut high-beam (blue) wire FROM the dip-switch, to one of the AC-IN wires on the RECTIFIER. (I used the white wire, but being AC it should work either way). Then, connect the other AC-IN wire on the rectifier to a ground. (I used a GREEN wire already in the scooter wiring). Now, the RED positive and BLACK negative 12VDC wires FROM the rectifier will connect to the matching wires on your LED headlight. I used automotive plugs crimped to the wires to allow easier removal if changes or repairs are needed.
image hosting picasa
I started the engine, and checked the output from the rectifier with a multi-meter. When I engaged the high-beam, it connected as it should, and provided a steady voltage of just under 10VDC at any rpm. This is a budget rectifier, and not the best quality. It loses 2 volts in the conversion process, BUT anything over 9VDC will light these LED's like the sun.
The LED shown in the test photo is the typical eBay 27 watt round one. I also have a 20 watt oval one, and either one gives GREAT light. I haven't decided on which one I'll finally use.
image hosting youtube
Here, I tested the headlight. I idled the engine for 15 minutes with the light on to check for overheating (of the new ELECTRICS... not the engine... LOL!). Neither the light, nor the rectifier got more than mildly warm. THAT was a relief, as I wondered about that massive aluminum heat-sink headlight housing! Throughout my test, the headlight remains sitting loose on the scooter seat. I have NO idea yet where, or how I'll mount it.
free image hosting
Here are pix of the scooter idling, showing the operation of the lights. On "low-beam" the stock AC headlights and running lights are on as usual.
Switching to "high-beam" the AC low-beams go out, and the AC running lights remain on, while the new DC LED light comes on. Everything works seamlessly just like before, but now the high-beam is DC voltage. That bright orange "light" in the right-hand pic is just the side-reflector... That LED makes all sorts of light, and the reflector lit up bright in the photo.
photo hosting software
I hand-held the LED roughly in driving position, and there's just NO comparison with the feeble factory lights. The 27 watt LED is at least 4-times brighter than both the pair of 35 watt bulbs I'm running in the stock headlights.
The round 27 watt light is the "flood" version, not the "pencil-spot" version. It does flood the road well. That feature should allow it to be aimed considerably to the "right" and thereby not at all blinding to oncoming traffic.
I also tried the 20 watt oval light, and it nearly duplicates the factory low-beam pattern, BUT is still nearly as bright as the 27 watt round one.
Which one I'll use is still up for grabs... And mounting either one without making it look pretty bad will take some major "creative engineering"... LOL! Both lights, when hand-held, seemed to work best mounted high up above the handlebars, so they can be aimed more "down" on the road. I'll probably fab up a mount between the VERY solid mirror mounts, and inset the light into the chrome instrument shade.
There have been numerous posts about hooking up an LED headlight, and this is one way to do it with as little fuss, and as little drain on the charging system as possible. It keeps the headlights running off the factory AC system as before, and allows switching between the AC dims, and DC LED brights (actually now "proper" dims...) with the standard dimmer switch as before. No controls change from original factory setup. The new LED draws less current than the old bulbs, so charging should not be compromised at all.
Hope this may help others! Please note, the rectifier I used is a cheapie, and only good for 3 amps. The 27 watt LED draws 2.7 amps so it's ALL that can be run on it. If you want more DC power for extra driving lights, phone-charging, etc. you'll need to get a heavier-duty bridge-rectifier. I've seen them on eBay made by Polaris and good for 40 amps, but they're pricey. I'm sure Radio Shack or other electronics suppliers have many available at reasonable prices.
Anyway, ride safe... AND, ride well-lit!
Leo (shedding some new light) in Texas
This covers only the connection and testing of the finished setup. I have not yet decided HOW or WHERE to mount the light... Also, my scooter is a 6-year-old Xingyue Eagle 150. Other scooters may use different color wires, but the concept should work on any model using 12VAC headlights.
First, remove enough screws to allow access to the high-low headlight "dip-switch" and the wires plugged into it.
screencast
Now, unplug the headlight wires from the switch so you can make the simple mods. On mine, BROWN is the POWER TO the switch, WHITE is the POWER FROM the switch to the low-beams, and BLUE is the POWER FROM the switch to the high-beams. THIS is the wire to insert the rectifier into, to convert to DC voltage.
program for screenshots for windows
Next, cut the wire to the factory high-beams (this is to allow inserting the 12VAC in, 12VDC out rectifier).
snagit
Just for reference, here is a photo showing the various wires before cutting the high-beam lead... YOUR scooter may use DIFFERENT color wires. You can check for power with a simple "probe" 12V auto test-light.
print screen
Here's the hookup: Connect the cut high-beam (blue) wire FROM the dip-switch, to one of the AC-IN wires on the RECTIFIER. (I used the white wire, but being AC it should work either way). Then, connect the other AC-IN wire on the rectifier to a ground. (I used a GREEN wire already in the scooter wiring). Now, the RED positive and BLACK negative 12VDC wires FROM the rectifier will connect to the matching wires on your LED headlight. I used automotive plugs crimped to the wires to allow easier removal if changes or repairs are needed.
image hosting picasa
I started the engine, and checked the output from the rectifier with a multi-meter. When I engaged the high-beam, it connected as it should, and provided a steady voltage of just under 10VDC at any rpm. This is a budget rectifier, and not the best quality. It loses 2 volts in the conversion process, BUT anything over 9VDC will light these LED's like the sun.
The LED shown in the test photo is the typical eBay 27 watt round one. I also have a 20 watt oval one, and either one gives GREAT light. I haven't decided on which one I'll finally use.
image hosting youtube
Here, I tested the headlight. I idled the engine for 15 minutes with the light on to check for overheating (of the new ELECTRICS... not the engine... LOL!). Neither the light, nor the rectifier got more than mildly warm. THAT was a relief, as I wondered about that massive aluminum heat-sink headlight housing! Throughout my test, the headlight remains sitting loose on the scooter seat. I have NO idea yet where, or how I'll mount it.
free image hosting
Here are pix of the scooter idling, showing the operation of the lights. On "low-beam" the stock AC headlights and running lights are on as usual.
Switching to "high-beam" the AC low-beams go out, and the AC running lights remain on, while the new DC LED light comes on. Everything works seamlessly just like before, but now the high-beam is DC voltage. That bright orange "light" in the right-hand pic is just the side-reflector... That LED makes all sorts of light, and the reflector lit up bright in the photo.
photo hosting software
I hand-held the LED roughly in driving position, and there's just NO comparison with the feeble factory lights. The 27 watt LED is at least 4-times brighter than both the pair of 35 watt bulbs I'm running in the stock headlights.
The round 27 watt light is the "flood" version, not the "pencil-spot" version. It does flood the road well. That feature should allow it to be aimed considerably to the "right" and thereby not at all blinding to oncoming traffic.
I also tried the 20 watt oval light, and it nearly duplicates the factory low-beam pattern, BUT is still nearly as bright as the 27 watt round one.
Which one I'll use is still up for grabs... And mounting either one without making it look pretty bad will take some major "creative engineering"... LOL! Both lights, when hand-held, seemed to work best mounted high up above the handlebars, so they can be aimed more "down" on the road. I'll probably fab up a mount between the VERY solid mirror mounts, and inset the light into the chrome instrument shade.
There have been numerous posts about hooking up an LED headlight, and this is one way to do it with as little fuss, and as little drain on the charging system as possible. It keeps the headlights running off the factory AC system as before, and allows switching between the AC dims, and DC LED brights (actually now "proper" dims...) with the standard dimmer switch as before. No controls change from original factory setup. The new LED draws less current than the old bulbs, so charging should not be compromised at all.
Hope this may help others! Please note, the rectifier I used is a cheapie, and only good for 3 amps. The 27 watt LED draws 2.7 amps so it's ALL that can be run on it. If you want more DC power for extra driving lights, phone-charging, etc. you'll need to get a heavier-duty bridge-rectifier. I've seen them on eBay made by Polaris and good for 40 amps, but they're pricey. I'm sure Radio Shack or other electronics suppliers have many available at reasonable prices.
Anyway, ride safe... AND, ride well-lit!
Leo (shedding some new light) in Texas
..BAD TO THE BONE..
