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Post by gitsum on Aug 2, 2013 13:11:48 GMT -5
I don't claim to be an expert, scientist or chemical engineer.
But I have owned a lot of motorcycles and scooters. After many tens or maybe even hundreds of thousand miles driven and countless oil changes, this is what I have learned:
Synthetic oil lasts longer than conventional oil.
In an air-cooled motor under extreme conditions, synthetic oil can give better protection than dino.
An oil screen is not as good as a paper oil filter for removing particulates.
A standard automotive filter is only rated for 40 microns, and will do no better than a screen for removing contaminants caused by normal blow by, which is one of the biggest factors in breaking down oil. If you have an engine made out of questionable metals and consistently have small metal flakes in your oil, a paper filter can help. If you always drive in very dusty or dirty conditions, a paper filter can help.
That being said, if you ride a machine with a quality engine under normal street conditions, a paper filter filter is not going to make any difference compared to an oil screen in terms of increased protection or engine longevity with proper oil change internals.
A properly tuned quality engine driven under normal street conditions will do just fine with conventional oil, though it is wise to change it more frequently than synthetic oil. If you are pushing 400 f cylinder head temps continuously, synthetic oil will give superior protection. But then if your engine is running that hot, it is not tuned properly and you will end up with other problems sooner than later.
I usually run conventional oil on an air-cooled scooter or motorcycle changing it every 1000 miles. Sometimes a little sooner depending on the conditions it was ridden in.
My Tomos Nitro 150 is air-cooled, and for a little extra insurance I might try running synthetic oil when touring several hundred miles at a time in the hot Arizona desert. I've already done several long hot trips with conventional oil, no problems. I do use a CHT gauge and during hot weather temps usually run 325 f to 340 f cruising 50 - 55 mph. Going up long grades that require WOT the engine reaches 375 f temporarily.
I've never had an engine seize on me, never a top end or crank failure. I have of course had to rebuild the top end on some two-stroke machines, but only for normal wear.
If I was riding a cheap four-stroke air-cooled 50cc scooter at WOT all the time that was always on the verge of overheating, I would use synthetic oil and hope for extra protection. But realistically I wouldn't expect any real reliability or durability...
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Post by Deleted on Aug 2, 2013 13:32:58 GMT -5
10w40 mobile 1 every 300 miles
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Post by jerseyboy on Aug 2, 2013 14:38:05 GMT -5
[replyingto=redroush00]redroush00[/replyingto]Ahh,,you gave up on Royal Purple... You should use Rotella full synthetic its less $$ than mobil 1 and twice as good for a small motor.Rich in zinc and magnesium,,the gy6 and any other hot running high revving motor's love that stuff...
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Post by scootnwinn on Aug 2, 2013 14:43:24 GMT -5
Ahh,,you gave up on Royal Purple... You should use Rotella full synthetic its less $$ than mobil 1 and twice as good for a small motor.Rich in zinc and magnesium,,the gy6 and any other hot running high revving motor's love that stuff... If you change it every 300 (not sure why you would but...) it doesn't matter as you will spend almost as much time draining fresh clean oil out of the bike as you will riding it... With 300 mile intervals you could use Circle K brand 30 weight and get away with it...
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Sophomore Rider
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Post by gitsum on Aug 2, 2013 14:48:57 GMT -5
10w40 mobile 1 every 300 miles Heck, I couldn't even take a long day ride without having to stop and change the oil
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Post by jerseyboy on Aug 2, 2013 15:32:58 GMT -5
[replyingto=redroush00]redroush00[/replyingto]If you drop your mobile1 every 300 miles you should save the used oil in a can and re use it in your car,,or for chainsaw bar lube
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Post by onewheeldrive on Aug 3, 2013 0:06:38 GMT -5
Ran into this thread while researching how to prevent crank bearing failure (which my scoot is prone to) The guy giving the information (w/Eric Clapton avatar) says he's a chemist, and from the technical data he gives to back up his case I don't doubt it. Basically it's his contention that "unfiltered" scoots (no paper) need the added protection of synthetic oil MORE and with frequent changes provide superior protection to any dino oil. totalruckus.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=73173&start=0How often has your crank been an issue? What oil do you use? The reason I ask is that has been the only thorn in my side with my engines.
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Post by spandi on Aug 3, 2013 0:58:53 GMT -5
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Post by Jarlaxle on Aug 3, 2013 19:32:30 GMT -5
I run 15W-40 diesel oil...though I WOULD run synthetic on a hot-running air-cooled scoot.
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