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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jul 9, 2013 13:37:59 GMT -5
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Post by prodigit on Jul 9, 2013 17:23:21 GMT -5
I think that exhaust will not fit mine, as I have a rocker arm in the way (rear wheel fork). Also, I'm not too fond of naked metal, as it'll rust quite fast. But nice that it works for you! Have you noticed any MPG differences changing the pipe? |
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jul 9, 2013 21:14:15 GMT -5
On either scoot, I haven't had much chance to ride. The Xingyue is still getting EFI tweaks. Tons of rain, and the Znen has been ridden maybe 15 miles when I get a chance.
If I were rolling in dough, I could see getting the pipes Jet-Hot coated or something.
The pain on the original exhausts did NOT keep them from rusting.
Painted mild restrictive OEM VS. a properly sized header and high flow muffler in cheap Chinese stainless steel.
No way I'd choose OEM.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jul 10, 2013 22:05:16 GMT -5
Way to go, Jeepsteve!
I thought you used one of those 1" systems. They definitely WORK! As for finish, I'll bet exhaust-header paint from the auto store (good for EXTREME heat) would work fine. It's made for that use, on bare metal.
One finish I absolutely KNOW will work is "Gun-Kote" I've used it on motorcycle exhausts, blocks, heads, etc. It's pricey, and a little tricky to use, but the end result is nearly indestructible... FAR more durable than any chrome plating.
Let these little puppies BREATHE and they'll grow into happy BIG dogs... LOL!
Leo in Texas
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Post by prodigit on Jul 11, 2013 0:02:33 GMT -5
Perhaps it is possible to file off the exhaust pipe edge (the wall you describe) to make it more like a cone instead of a wall? I can certainly see how the pipe would heat up part of the engine more, not a problem in most cases, unless you're riding in the desert, or hot climates (say, above  degrees). |
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jul 11, 2013 1:05:22 GMT -5
Perhaps it is possible to file off the exhaust pipe edge (the wall you describe) to make it more like a cone instead of a wall? I can certainly see how the pipe would heat up part of the engine more, not a problem in most cases, unless you're riding in the desert, or hot climates (say, above degrees).
Many riders recommend this "chamfering" procedure. It's quite easy with an electric drill and a "ball-grinder" stone. These inexpensive round grindstones leave a perfect bevel to the square shoulder. The welds around the pipes and flange junctions are usually quite robust, allowing some decent angle-chamfering to the "hole" edge. Just that alone should make a big improvement in breathing. That would allow you to keep your stock muffler. However, if I was going to go to that much effort, I'd really consider getting a full-1" header like Jeepsteve did. They're not cheap, at around $50 delivered, but I think the improvement would be worth the money in the long run. (If you get the header AND the muffler together, they become pretty affordable).Of course, where I live, right now it's usually 98-100+ in the summer. 104 in Dallas today I can use all the cooling I can get! That's the thinking behind my cooling-fan-scoop extension shown below. how to do a screen shot image shackLook closely, and you can see the heat-wrap on my header below the fan-scoop. Riding HARD, at 98-degrees, this whole setup HAS rewarded me with 200-204-degree oil-temp, as opposed to the former 220-260-degree oil-temp with the stock header, and the fan-scoop mounted directly on the fan shroud. This setup has made my engine's performance more uniform in differing temps, and, should extend the life of my oil, and engine.Below -degrees, these mods may not make a lot of difference. But... When it creeps up to 105 (around 118 out in the sun) every little bit helps! Get that exhaust right, and your scoot will love ya!Leo in Texas |
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Post by prodigit on Jul 11, 2013 5:50:59 GMT -5
Why the wrap on the exhaust? It only traps the heat?
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Post by justin010304 on Jul 11, 2013 7:31:05 GMT -5
Hot air moves faster out the exhaust
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Post by jeepsteve92xj on Jul 11, 2013 7:40:38 GMT -5
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Post by prodigit on Jul 11, 2013 7:54:52 GMT -5
I think the radiating is a lot better than trapping it. The metal pipe will get hotter, and a lot more heat gets transferred via metal than via air to the engine...
If you ask me, it's working counterproductive.
I know they do it in cars sometimes, but that's only because the majority of the air in the engine compartment is not moving or circulating very fast. With a scooter, the air goes over the pipe almost always, unless you're standing still, or riding with the wind at the same speed as the wind... my 2 ct.
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Post by sailracer on Jul 11, 2013 8:07:14 GMT -5
Did you have that exhaust on the bike before modifying it? I have the same(well, really similar) exhaust on my scooter. Came new that way, and it's a four stroke. Im going to use it as is on a new modified engine,and I'm just wondering how yours performed before mods. Was it acceptable? or downright no good?
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Post by jerseyboy on Jul 11, 2013 9:05:36 GMT -5
It forces the same amount of air out without the wrap,,the wrap just keeps the hot radiating air off the motor/crankcase,thus resulting in a cooler running more efficient motor,,and the air out the tail pipe is much hotter.
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Post by ltdhpp on Jul 11, 2013 11:47:18 GMT -5
My 150cc certainly woke right up with aftermarket exhaust and a bigger jet. I'm not sure what diameter the head pipe is, but it was definitely much larger than the stock one you can barely get your pinky finger in!
The first muffler fell apart big time in 1,000 miles, but the 2nd one is still good as new after 1,000 miles.
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Post by oldchopperguy on Jul 12, 2013 22:54:07 GMT -5
The wrap helps force the heat out the tailpipe, rather than radiating from the pare pipe right under the motor. Helps keep the engines temperature a little lower. BUT the new 1 1/8" O.D. header is a VERY close fit between the engine and the frame. NORMALLY, I'd let it radiate, but I was concerned about the close proximity of the pipe to the engine, allowing the pipe to heat the block excessively. Apparently, the heat wrap is doing its job in spades! My oil temp is quite acceptable now, at 204-220 degrees after hard-running in 98-degree temps. That's down from 240+ with the old header. As Jeepsteve also mentioned, it helps get the hot gasses down the line... And that thin-wall stainless expansion-chamber "muffler" gets hotter than a mink in heat... LOL! OK, it's MADE for that... It's starting to turn that beautiful straw, purple and blue that says: "serious cookin' goin' on here..." I also extended my cooling-fan-scoop a couple of inches to get it past the header, and into the wind (out of the vortex formed by the lower plastics). I don't know how much THAT mod affected the oil temp. Probably at least a little. In this Texas heat, I need every "edge" I can get... I do know that beyond 250-degrees, engine oil breaks down fast. Keeping the oil cooler is very good for the engine. Leo ("Cool Running") in Texas |
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Post by prodigit on Jul 12, 2013 23:13:23 GMT -5
know that there is more heat transfer to the engine from metallic contact, than through air!
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degrees).
jet
