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Post by mouse0667 on Jun 3, 2013 20:40:16 GMT -5
Was gonna change fluids and go ride but scoot had other ideas for me. Warmed up bike and did oil change but while warming up bike ran really warm while idling figured no big deal old fluids would be going and hopefully fix that. Got oiled changed no problem. Decided to see about cooling issue. started bike and again almost pegged while idling. After checking coolant bottle to make sure full decided to check fan. Not spinning ugh now to find out what the problem is. Not to familiar with these small engines. But traced the wires back to a 2 prong plug. Pulled plug and stuck a meter across the terminals and it had no voltage at all. Those wires went into a bundle and lost it after that. Did see a sensor of some type on top of the block where a water hose was but only 1 wire coming out of it. Could that be a temp sensor and if so how do i test it?. Are there any relays i should look for? Forgot to mention this is a used Lance Duke 250. Also need help with a no charging issue but one problem at a time. So i come to the board for any and all help you can provide. One last thing, how can i get the right side fender off to do all this work easier then having to lay on my back in drive way and working upside down. Got center console off but couldn't get fender off. Do I need to remove more panels or just look for more screws. Found one in front and took off top box but center seem still solidly attached. Thank you in advance.
Ed
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 3, 2013 23:44:45 GMT -5
If I remember right, to get the panels off you have to start in the back. There is a panel in the back just above the license plate. looking from the ground up there are 4 screws to take off then that panel comes off. Pick a side and look at the lower side panel and find the screws. Again I think there are 4, maybe less. once they are all removed the lower panel is held to the upper panel by built in hooks where they meet. gently slide the lower panel to the rear until it drops free. To remove the upper panel you need to take off the trunk, luggage rack and grab bars. Find the screws holding the panel on and take them out. Again I think there are 4. Now the rear of the upper panel is pressure held in place under the edge of the tail light assembly. Gently work the front of the upper panel loose and slowly, gently pull the rear of the panel from under the tail light assembly. It isn't easy but I managed to get mine completely apart and back together without breaking anything.
As you disassemble, it is a good idea to place your screws in a baggie, one baggie for each piece you disassemble. Good luck.
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Post by rockynv on Jun 4, 2013 4:27:55 GMT -5
Lance is pretty good assisting you over the phone. Give them a call or an email and they will do their best to help you.
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Post by mouse0667 on Jun 5, 2013 17:21:25 GMT -5
OK got the plastics off without breaking any. Found the fan wires and it ran when jumped to battery. Found temp sensor and it also ran when jump, so thinking sensor is bad. Ordered sensor at Scrappydogs and it should be here friday or sat. Hopefully back on the road this weekend. Thanx for the Guys. Anyhting else I should check out while the bike is naked?
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 5, 2013 21:35:57 GMT -5
I would let the engine run while you have the fan running to see if it still overheats. I assume it was the two wire sensor that you ordered? That is what controls operation of the fan. The one wire sensor is what powers the temp gauge on the dash. I would leave the plastics off while you are looking for the cause of the no charging condition. Easier access to your electrical components. Depending on their condition you may want to replace the fuel and vacuum hoses, fuel filter, make sure all of the nuts and bolts are tight and wiring connections are clean and tight. In other words a full PDI. itistheride.boards.net/index.cgi?board=genh&action=display&thread=46 |
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Post by mouse0667 on Jun 6, 2013 0:12:30 GMT -5
Thanx Gatekeeper was thinking same about the charging issue but can't do anything til sensor comes in. BTW I ordered both was only $25 with shipping. $9.  ea so figured I do both. Yeah Fuel filter has to go looks like its probably OEM, all yellow and nasty. Lines look OK. Will do a better look at wiring tomorrow or Friday. Does anyone know if this bike is supposed to have a fuse box? Can't find one. Only main fuse by battery and gonna change that from glass to blade also. Never liked glass fuses even in cars. Thanx again for the help Ed |
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Post by gatekeeper on Jun 6, 2013 22:32:10 GMT -5
The fuse box on my MC-13-250 is near the front of the under seat compartment.
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Post by mouse0667 on Jun 7, 2013 11:36:35 GMT -5
Under my seat near the front is the coolant fill, then the battery. Rest is storage and not much of it. Thought I read somewhere it was under front cowling but don't see any way to get in there without ripping whole front apart.
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Post by mouse0667 on Jun 20, 2013 23:20:33 GMT -5
OK time for update. Waited a week and a half to get temp sensor from scrappy. Called them up and whoever took my order never put it in the system so I cancelled the order. Was not a happy camper to say the least. Ordered again from Ebay and it was waiting today when I got home from work. Installed sensor and cleaned up battery connections, reinstalled battery and she fired right up. Decided it was time for a test ride so put all the plastics back on and suited up. Man did it feel good to be back on 2 wheels. Now to find that charging bug. Engine off and at idle Voltmeter reads 12.3 or so but when I run the engine up ( no tach, about half throttle ) it only goes to 12.4 or 12.5. Also the previous owner has a kill switch on the negative lead off the battery. If I turn it off when bike parked it has enough juice left to start bike but if left on it kills the battery dead. Thinking a drain somewhere but where to start? And this person used a wall switch for the kill . So question what do i check in charging circuit and how? Charging should be about 14 volt i thought not 12.5. After I get all this done I still need to order a new gauge package and surrounding plastics and maybe a body panel or two because a few tabs are busted. Thanks in advance.
Ed
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2008 Roketa MC54B 257 (10,000 miles and climbing)
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Post by bhinch on Jun 22, 2013 5:24:32 GMT -5
A couple of months ago....the R/R gave up the ghost on my scoot. I had rear turn and stop, but no running lights. The battery was not charging at all. I had installed a volt meter last year and it showed no charging. My scoot takes a 6 wire R/R, being a MC54B Roketa with the 257 cc engine. I ordered a new R/R and that fixed my prob. The volt meter shows 13.1 going down the hiway at 60, with everything running. I had installed HID's a few yrs back and LED's for stop and turn, all was good. So you might have a R/R prob. Life is Good...
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2008 Roketa MC54B 257 (10,000 miles and climbing)
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Post by bhinch on Jun 22, 2013 5:32:40 GMT -5
R/R means Rectifier/Regulator....enjoy the ride...
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Post by mouse0667 on Jul 4, 2013 0:54:43 GMT -5
Time for update. Sorry its been so long but works been busier then heck gearing up for the 4th. Called scrappy and got the R/R. Only took 3 days. Very helpful on phone and made sure it was in stock. Charged battery on trickle. Had to cut one of the plugs off the R/R because someone had cut the one off the wiring harness. Butted and sealed wires and reinstalled battery. Scoot now starts and all lights work as they should. Also took out that switch that was on the negative off the battery. Seems to hold a charge no problem. Wife and I scooted down to the boat harbor here in Buffalo tonite and other than a few rattles all is good. Hope everyone has a good 4th and stay safe out there.
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ea so figured I do both. Yeah Fuel filter has to go looks like its probably OEM, all yellow and nasty. Lines look OK. Will do a better look at wiring tomorrow or Friday. Does anyone know if this bike is supposed to have a fuse box? Can't find one. Only main fuse by battery and gonna change that from glass to blade also. Never liked glass fuses even in cars. Thanx again for the help