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Post by rockynv on May 3, 2013 20:03:11 GMT -5
Just remember to use the antiseize compatible with the resevoir material. If it is an aluminum alloy or has a polished or anodized aluminum cover be sure you don't use a copper based antiseize or you may end up causing the galvanic reaction that you are trying to prevent.
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Post by chris9183 on May 11, 2013 14:15:12 GMT -5
[replyingto=rockynv]rockynv[/replyingto]Okay, I finally got the correct caliper, and I've got it attached and all the air is bled out of the fluid system, and it IS pressurizing now, but is still very weak. It definitely doesn't have much stopping power, and it's pressurized as hard as it's gonna go (still pretty squishy, just a bit of pressure near the end). I really don't understand what I'm doing wrong here. The pistons in the caliper don't look like they're extended far at all to make contact with the disc. They're extended less than 1/2 a centimeter. Surely that's not their maximum length?
If not, then I really have no clue what the problem is. I dunno what to do.
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Post by oldchopperguy on May 12, 2013 1:10:59 GMT -5
Okay, I finally got the correct caliper, and I've got it attached and all the air is bled out of the fluid system, and it IS pressurizing now, but is still very weak. It definitely doesn't have much stopping power, and it's pressurized as hard as it's gonna go (still pretty squishy, just a bit of pressure near the end). I really don't understand what I'm doing wrong here. The pistons in the caliper don't look like they're extended far at all to make contact with the disc. They're extended less than 1/2 a centimeter. Surely that's not their maximum length? If not, then I really have no clue what the problem is. I dunno what to do. That half cm is still wider than the home-made shim I put behind my new inner pad. My stock FRONT single-piston caliper pad moves only 1/64" or so, and now, so does my rear inner pad. I'm pretty sure you must have the moving pad (and the stationary pad as well) only a few thousandths of an inch from contacting the disk for full braking. There's just not enough fluid in the teensy master-cylinder to move the pistons more than a small fraction of an inch (maybe 2mm or so) and still have enough lever-travel left to REALLY brake hard. When my scoot was new, both brakes actually dragged slightly with NO space between the pads and disk. My new rear also slightly touches the disk. It wears in quickly, leaving virtually no space at all.I'll bet the farm that if you get a spacer (at least a fat 1/16") shim behind that moving inner pad, you'll have full braking. The fact that you're now getting some braking indicates your correct installation, but that half cm is still quite a gap to breach. These scooters are SO different from one another, but I do believe you and I still have the same problem. One thought here: If you filled and bled the system with the new caliper in its un-used condition, then applied the brake, the pistons moving that half-centimeter may have made you low on fluid as they moved out. I would again check to see if your fluid is now low. If so, you should be able to simply "top it off" to replace the fluid now filling the caliper cylinders with the pistons pushed out. Worth a try!Sincerely, Leo in Texas |
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Post by robrun on May 13, 2013 20:31:40 GMT -5
sent you a pm
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Post by geh3333 on May 13, 2013 21:15:18 GMT -5
I always leave the cap off by the break lever and then ill pump it a few times to get the air out. I never got why they want you to bleed them by the caliper air always rises. I know you bleed car breaks at the calipers but i would do both ways on theses scoots
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