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Post by brainpup on May 22, 2018 21:43:39 GMT -5
Any body else have any suggestions ?
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Post by onewheeldrive on May 23, 2018 7:43:20 GMT -5
Recently I swapped my stock Air Box for a regular cone-like air filter as the air box was getting a couple of cracks in it. I had to block off the hose coming off the CVT (it's a breather) and the other hose coming from the front of the head (fuel blow by that gets recycled back into the air box) as without the air box there was no where to attached them. You shouldn’t block off the hose coming from the valve cover.
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New Rider
Currently Offline
Retired for a year now, but still love to ride and do daily.
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
Joined: Apr 7, 2014 15:36:15 GMT -5
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Post by brainpup on May 23, 2018 10:20:06 GMT -5
onewheeldrive, actually when I put the airbox back on, I hooked all of the vacuum lines back up the way they were when "stock" , so that nothing was blocked off.
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Post by pistonguy on May 23, 2018 16:33:26 GMT -5
Any body else have any suggestions ? stay tuned bro I got grabbed at the last minute to run a load of drag race school cars down to Charlotte for this upcoming big weekend.
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New Rider
Currently Offline
Retired for a year now, but still love to ride and do daily.
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
Joined: Apr 7, 2014 15:36:15 GMT -5
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Post by brainpup on May 23, 2018 18:13:13 GMT -5
OMG OMG OMG...dude I live in Charlotte on N. Wendover Road (other end of Eastway Drive) where ya gonna be ? I'll freakin drag my scooter behind my bicycle to meet ya somewhere, heck my Dog's barking like heck and says he'll help drag it too (he's a Husky) anything just to git the dang thing running again. I'd pay for your help, I'm about broke but I need this scoot to run...or I'll lose my job, I've been late 4 times in 2 weeks trying to count on the CATS Bus System and my boss is getting ill, as he can't go home until I get there. Where do you live ? When will you be in town ?
BTW I found a good deal on a 26mm keihin carb/intake manifold/air filter/fuel filter, I could have here by Friday or Saturday at the latest.
UPDATE: I ordered the carb just now, I can't drill thru the screws on mine, (stock carb) and heck it's been on the scooter since the day it was born, 09/14/2012, so it's got to be worn out anyway after 12,374 km. The intake manifold looks like its got a few hairline cracks as do the fuel & vacuum lines (nothing leaks though) and the air & fuel filter were free add-ons. I also bought some new "clear" fuel/vacuum hose and the worm drive clamps (10) to tighten them down securely and I got 25ft of hose, so I'm replacing every last hose there is...oh yeah I also bought a new Vacuum fuel pump, just to eliminate everything. I'm hoping this new batch of parts will end the problem. The parts will be here on Friday, via 2 day Amazon Prime where I already had a $25 gift card credit, so I only had to fork out another 24 bucks for everything...dirt cheap by any standards and I still picked thru the ones with the better reviews...(26mm Keihin carb made in Japan)
Please let me know of any advise you may offer.
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Post by pistonguy on May 23, 2018 19:48:58 GMT -5
No don't buy anything yet. I want you to try a couple thing just to make 100% we eliminate them as a issue. Backfire/pop bak thru the intake, Do you have a fouled Plug? try another one. Lets then back up to a previous suggestion of confirming you don Not have a half sheered flywheel key, I've have some strange crap happen and a sheered key made a idiot out of me once or twice. Pop that timing plug and you valve cover and confirm your at TDC and that coincides with the TDC on the flywheel. there are some you tube vids I'm sure to help you with this. Im up north in Randleman, this is the biggest motorsports weekend in the world and I'm wide open with running a bunch of school race cars around the speedway for there big 600 weekend then back to the shop up here, theres a 911 every ten minutes so I'm slammed man. Ill pop in here and there to help ya when I can...
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New Rider
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Retired for a year now, but still love to ride and do daily.
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Joined: Apr 7, 2014 15:36:15 GMT -5
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Post by brainpup on May 23, 2018 20:51:24 GMT -5
Too late, I already paid for the parts...but like I said I've been running with the original Stock carb, intake manifold, hoses and vacuum pump for over 4 years & over 12,000km's, so I got my money's worth out of them and like I said there were some small cracks in the manifold (even though I'm not sure how that would really effect anything, as the manifold is really the aluminum pipe inside the rubber boot and as long as it's tight to the manifold and tight to the carb, where can it leak) and I went with clear hoses so I can confirm fuel flow...and like I said ti all only cost me $24 out of pocket. ..and since I don't have a garage or even a carport (just a spot on the asphalt parking lot of my apt complex) to work on my scooter, I wanted to do something to do get some parts rolling this way. So it's not like I can pull the valve cover off at night... BTW I watched a couple video's about valve adjustments and how to check the mark on the flywheel and the holes in the Camshaft gear part to confirm you have the engine at TDC before doing any adjustments... what if it doesn't line up? what do you do next ? NOTE: my engine has never had a valve adjustment, unless it happened during the 1st 1000 km, before I got the bike...now shes at 12,000 km, probably due huh ?
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New Rider
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Retired for a year now, but still love to ride and do daily.
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Joined: Apr 7, 2014 15:36:15 GMT -5
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Post by brainpup on May 23, 2018 20:59:08 GMT -5
Excuse me Mr. Tortoise, in order to prevent me from having to tear half my engine apart, you said something about sticking a probe inside the spark plug hole to check for top dead center...what kind of "probe" ? and what am trying to feel ? the top of the piston ? I know about the T mark on the actual flywheel and the flange part that sticks out it's suppose to line up with, but what am I trying to feel for inside the spark plug hole ? What can I do if they don't match at TDC ?
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Post by pistonguy on May 24, 2018 6:26:11 GMT -5
Cool the engine over to the TDC on the flywheel, now just stick a per or pencil into the spark plug hole and you should run into the piston. No while holing the pen with your right hand gently roll the flywheel back and fort a feew degrees and you should feel the piston coe up to TDC the turn direction and go down Do this several ties to confirm you have the piston at TDC at that point the TDC mark on the flywheel should line up with its mark. If it doesn't remove the fan cover then the fan. if you don't have sometime of impact you will have to figure out a way to hold the flywheel and remove its Nut. Once the nut is removed you maybe able to see the keyway t see if the Key is sheered some. if you can't see it you will have to pop the flywheel. there is e inexpensive tool to do this with sold by most suppliers Good Luck
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Post by pistonguy on May 24, 2018 7:54:16 GMT -5
Lets again make sure you just don't have a fouled plug and flooded engine now.. Is that plug soaking wet? or?
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Post by brainpup on May 24, 2018 19:44:25 GMT -5
Plugs dry as a bone... Ok I did what you said and took the plug out and the fan cover off, then I located the "TDC Marker" (I'm calling it that because it's the place that the Marks on the Flywheel are suppose to line up with when checking for TDC). Then I stuck my skinniest screwdriver in the spark plug hole and rotated the flywheel real slowly until I could feel the piston hit the screwdriver, then I backed off and came back until it just touched it again, then I checked the TDC Marker...it was real close to the T. I then pulled my screwdriver out and rotated the engine a couple of complete cycles, then I put the screw driver back in the hole and rotated the flywheel until it touch the screwdriver again. Below is a picture of where the Flywheel is at when the Piston touches the screwdriver" The Flywheel has Marks that says T F and then theres a line and then a little farther away theres 2 more lines (not sure what they are for ?? advanced timing ?? ). But according to what you are saying, mine's showing that it's pretty close to TDC...true ? any other ideas ? OR just way overdue for a new Carburetor ? I'm sure I could use a valve adjustment but my engine has never been noisy or made any ticking sound like I have loose valves and she always idled smoothly @ about 1800 rpm after she comes down from the auto-choke. I've been changing the oil (Shell Rotella T4) every 1000 km (she doesn't quite take a whole quart, so 5 bucks every couple of months is no big deal and with 12,374 km that makes about 10 times for me as she had 1600 km when I got her 4 years ago, so were talking $50 over 4 years ain't sheet...I change the CVT fluid at the same time too...I use nothing but 92 octane, I check/clean/replace the plug every time I do an oil change or if I notice a drop in performance, and I'v replaced the air filter in the air box twice even though it didn't look the least bit dirty... so it's not like she isn't getting taken care of. Although I do wish I had a Garage...but she does stay covered when not on the road...been thru 5 covers in the last 4 years...most are cheap and don't last, but I did recently find a better one, will see... BTW the Carburetor/Intake manifold/Vacuum petcock/air filter/fuel filter/ hose will all be here tomorrow, per Amazon Prime
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New Rider
Currently Offline
Retired for a year now, but still love to ride and do daily.
Posts: 28
Likes: 1
Joined: Apr 7, 2014 15:36:15 GMT -5
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Post by brainpup on May 24, 2018 19:58:14 GMT -5
Hey tortoise, did you click on the picture to see where my flywheel is at when the piston is at TDC. it looks close to me, what do you think ?
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Post by chewbaca on May 25, 2018 5:00:36 GMT -5
the most common thing to send a scooter engine out of service is an exhaust valve not sealing. It makes no noise just poor running and then failure to start. With back firing I would suspect a loose intake valve
a slight click or tap is common after a valve job and expected its why they are called tappet valves
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