|
|
Post by pistonguy on Aug 30, 2017 15:43:36 GMT -5
I recently replaced the stock fuel filter the shady mechanic installed in place of the (older) high-flow fuel filter I got from SD. It was browned out and soaked in fuel, so they installed the stock one. I swapped it back with a new larger one I bought from Advanced Auto to the same dimension. You're saying its TOO much fuel for the carb, increased pressure on the fuel pump? (isn't the petcock just a manual vaccuum?) I have a 32mm CVK carb on my GY6 150cc, with a custom intake situation to handle the air flow. Are the GY-6 150cc Internals Stock? or? Other than the hot rod intake etc, whats the package of mods? Im trying to figure out why you have a 32mm carb on her.. |
|
|
|
Post by chewbaca on Aug 30, 2017 16:58:26 GMT -5
The stock carb on a gy6 150 is actually pretty darn good. It would probably be big enough for a 250 if it was geared tall
The only thing I don't like about it is the auto choke
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
AKAGI LIVES!
Posts: 11 
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 21, 2017 13:24:29 GMT -5
|
Post by nssm on Sept 1, 2017 18:13:48 GMT -5
The original carb was running dry. The intake/exhaust combo flushed all fuel from the carb whenever it rode. When I went to take it apart, the screws at the bottom were grinded off; unservicable.
What I am reading now, perhaps, an aftermarket OEM spec carb that I can at least rejet might be in order.
I got the balance right finally, but had to turn the a/f flow pretty wide, so Im guessing it IS too much air going in and will never find enough fuel to feed it.
|
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
AKAGI LIVES!
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 21, 2017 13:24:29 GMT -5
|
Post by nssm on Sept 1, 2017 18:18:20 GMT -5
Actually, this is very one I purchased BEFORE I found out the stock carb was unserviceable:  "Performance race CVK quality 30mm carburetor for the 152QMI and 157QMJ gy6 125 and 150cc four stroke chinese scooter/atv engines. Fits, but is not limited to the Roketa, Sym, Tank, VIP, Tank, Sunl, Vento, etc." - as sold on www.scrappydogscooters.com/125_150cc_Performance.htmlShould I get a smaller one? (I read that a smaller inlet increase the intake velocity?) |
|
|
|
Post by chewbaca on Sept 1, 2017 18:55:01 GMT -5
It depends do you want to rip around on a screaming RPM demon. Or do you want to cruze a thumper
|
|
|
|
Post by pistonguy on Sept 2, 2017 8:39:41 GMT -5
Actually, this is very one I purchased BEFORE I found out the stock carb was unserviceable: "Performance race CVK quality 30mm carburetor for the 152QMI and 157QMJ gy6 125 and 150cc four stroke chinese scooter/atv engines. Fits, but is not limited to the Roketa, Sym, Tank, VIP, Tank, Sunl, Vento, etc." - as sold on www.scrappydogscooters.com/125_150cc_Performance.htmlShould I get a smaller one? (I read that a smaller inlet increase the intake velocity?) Thats what I figured , Over Carbureted beyond on a stock GY Your flushing a Toilet into a Cocktail straw. Nothing but a Go Slow Combination... Fake claims from Scammers who sell Fake parts and pray on the ignorance of others. "Performance" cuz I said so.. |
|
New Rider
Currently Offline
AKAGI LIVES!
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
Joined: Feb 21, 2017 13:24:29 GMT -5
|
Post by nssm on Sept 2, 2017 19:18:12 GMT -5
Ok, so what do you suggest as a reasonably solid performing OEM spec carb? I bought my bike crate new, so it wasn't typically molested by mechanics who scam people into "yep, I'm an expert."
Because in the process of tuning, I think I fried my starter switch so the bike keeps trying to start...
|
|
|
|
Post by chewbaca on Sept 3, 2017 13:05:47 GMT -5
Not that the starter switch can't go bad
But it's very likely that the starter relay has started to stick
They get rusty inside and the OEM relay is soooo cheap
You can get a replacement relay at any auto parts store
Even the generic no name stuff is ten times better
Every China scooter I have ever had or worked on has that part go bad sooner than later
|
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Sept 4, 2017 9:15:37 GMT -5
I recently replaced the stock fuel filter the shady mechanic installed in place of the (older) high-flow fuel filter I got from SD. It was browned out and soaked in fuel, so they installed the stock one. I swapped it back with a new larger one I bought from Advanced Auto to the same dimension. You're saying its TOO much fuel for the carb, increased pressure on the fuel pump? (isn't the petcock just a manual vaccuum?) I have a 32mm CVK carb on my GY6 150cc, with a custom intake situation to handle the air flow. that filter has nothing to do with it, its a gravity fed tank, if fuel is flowing through the filter its fine |
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Sept 4, 2017 9:17:34 GMT -5
The original carb was running dry. The intake/exhaust combo flushed all fuel from the carb whenever it rode. When I went to take it apart, the screws at the bottom were grinded off; unservicable. What I am reading now, perhaps, an aftermarket OEM spec carb that I can at least rejet might be in order. I got the balance right finally, but had to turn the a/f flow pretty wide, so Im guessing it IS too much air going in and will never find enough fuel to feed it. they can be serviced look up how to repair a sealed carb on youtube lots of videos, you can get the screws out, you are better to get a stock or close to stock size carb, in a name brand,such as Keihin, then you can get a jet kit and swap jets around to see how they work, it's really easy to do, lots of videos out there. if you are going close to stock you need to probably only mess with the main jet. Get rid of the pod filter, use the stock airbox, it's really hard to get these carbs right with those type of filters. you said te stock carb was 'dry' do you mean the main jets were too small? or it wasn't getting enough fuel from the tank? the tank should have been able to flow enough fuel to flood out the carb with too big of a jet, did you check your fuel petcock to make sure fuel was flowing? or your fuel filter was clean? do you have a pair system on yours? emissions. they frequently develop vacuum leaks so there isn't enough vacuum at the manifold to operate the petcock, find the pair system small hose going to the manifold and cap off the manifold port, to see how it does. mine had a massive vacuum leak at only 400 miles. have you checked your intake to spacer gaskets? they develop leaks and are a pain in the to get to seal right , a leak here will drive you crazy trying to find the problem |
|
|
|
Post by lostforawhile on Sept 4, 2017 9:31:38 GMT -5
Not that the starter switch can't go bad But it's very likely that the starter relay has started to stick They get rusty inside and the OEM relay is soooo cheap You can get a replacement relay at any auto parts store Even the generic no name stuff is ten times better Every China scooter I have ever had or worked on has that part go bad sooner than later the plastic in the starter switch binds, I just took mine apart, lubed it with some silicone dielectric grease, and it's fine, the safety system only allows power to the start switch when the brake is pulled, I think that's universal on most Chinese stuff, so every time I pulled the brake the starter would engage |
|
|
|
Post by chewbaca on Sept 4, 2017 11:35:03 GMT -5
Yea that happens to but not as often
I get good results cleaning out the switch with WD40
electric parts cleaner is ok as well if you happen to have a can
But the WD40 seams to make the plastic last longer
Dielectric grease seams to harden up in the dusty PHX heat
I have had to scrape off old stuff that looked like gummy plaster
I hope you have better luck with it
|
|
