Hello! NSSM from Miami, FL - 150cc "Red Dragon"  By  nssm (Read 1,635 times)

So with a performance fan that flows LESS air, wide-open-throttle abuse, and Florida summer heat . . speculating enhanced odds of engine failure.

If broken belt fragments don't lock up the clutch and rear wheel, and you are spared serious injury, include the Sym 300 in your replacement research.

Actually runs fine, better now with a SSP-G intake manifold, CVK 32mm Performance carb, and air intake filter. The issue now is electrical. I'm having a spell with the starter, as the battery is fully charged, I turn the key to no response from the IP cluster gauges, lights, or solenoid. I wonder what it is. The grounds in the headlights are good, the switches are connected, and only when I have the battery hooked up to the charger, does it start. All the wires are good (less than a year old from brand new) and metered all the connections, to good signal, can't seem to find the bug.

Help?

Sounds like just a surface charge on the battery. Put voltmeter across battery, it should read over 12V. Hit the starter and if it drops to zero, buy a new battery.

Hi ITR,
It's been a bumpy couple of months, finally brought Akagi to a mechanic referred from a trusted friend. Took a couple of weeks and few trips back and forth, but the bike is back in front of my driveway. Drove it about 10-12 miles back from Miramar in the rain, with a dead battery. It's crazy, but the guys there had trouble too getting the motor to start and stay on running. So, they spliced a red wire from the positive end of the starter solenoid and cut the ground (black) wire to the coil. I simply connected them to a 2 way switch at the side panel vent and now have to engage the starter in a 3rd sequence.





The mechanic also adjusted the carb to handle the increase of air intake from a custom setup he crafted from the aftermarket filter and the stock airbox hose. It looks pretty legit in my opinion, but he says that balancing the A/F now is much more trickier. I even considered modifying the downpipe with a A/F sensor bung, maybe someday...



The bike has run a few dozen miles since, until one morning it decided not to turn over before the effects of passing tropical storm Harvey rained out an entire week. So it sat for a few days. I'm in it again, dialed the carb back and starting all over with the A/F mix. There's a idle adjust and screw at the drain bowl that controls the flow of gas into the housing of the carb. Once I get it firing, then I dial back the A/F until it starts to sputter, then turn the idle screw higher RPM until it sounds smooth, but its like chasing a ghost without knowing whats really working right. The carb sounds like its flooding every time I give it throttle (about 30-50%) then bogs out. It was the very problem that had me consider selling this whole damn thing and moving on to something else.

I had to make the run to the mechanic again to pick up the parts I had left behind; an oil coolers system (the mechanic replaced the oil the Hialean mechanic filled with Royal Purple now.), a crate of odds and ends, the old stock air box, and random hose bolts and clamps. I made the trip back with little stops. The vaccuum lines to the petcock keep slipping from the loop on the manifold, so it will choke without fuel after a few miles then relink it only to pet the throttle due to some hesitation. I think the motor is mad fuel thirsty because it runs a heavy vaccuum now.

Whats up ITR?