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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 20, 2013 3:24:20 GMT -5
It can do both. Have you tested it to see if it is working correctly?
If there is gas in the fuel filter then take the fuel line off of the carburetor and put the end in a container. Then take the vacuum line that goes to the petcock loose from the intake manifold. lightly suck on the end of the vacuum line to create negative pressure. If the petcock is working properly fuel will freely flow into the container you put the end of the fuel line in while negative pressure is applied.
You can replace the vacuum petcock with a manual one but I prefer the simplicity of the vacuum one. You don't have to remember to turn it off and on and they are cheap to replace if they malfunction.
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 19, 2013 21:50:53 GMT -5
Love it!!
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 19, 2013 8:52:02 GMT -5
.08mm is a wider gap than is .05mm, therefore it is looser. Being looser it will allow for more heat expansion of the valves as they get hot, and still be able to close all of the way.
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 19, 2013 5:58:10 GMT -5
Good morning Alley. It was 33 degrees out when I rode my scooter to work at midnight. Brrr...!!! Been a long time since I've ridden in that kind of cold. I'm glad I only have a 3 mile commute.
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My NST 50cc
by: gatekeeper - Mar 19, 2013 0:24:35 GMT -5
Post by gatekeeper on Mar 19, 2013 0:24:35 GMT -5
Those deals are out there. Just have to be patient. That can be hard sometimes though!! ;D
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 16, 2013 19:58:29 GMT -5
He has a 4 stroke.
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 16, 2013 19:21:06 GMT -5
@ gate u know what your talking about, it seems
why not jump it?
make sure car keys are NOT in the ignition, if scoot jumps....
You're right terrilee he could. I get so focused on solutions sometimes Yes you can jump a car battery to test your electrical. Be careful to hook positive to positive and negative to negative. DO NOT have the car engine running as that will fry your little battery. With the car off your scooter will only draw the power it needs and no harm will be done.
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 16, 2013 19:12:21 GMT -5
You're talking about the air/fuel mixture and yes it can be adjusted, unless your carb has a brass plug sealed over the adjustment screw. The newer scooters come plugged from the factory to satisfy the EPA. You can either drill the plug out or buy a replacement carb that has the screw exposed. Carbs are cheap, like $25. www.ebay.com/itm/330476352602?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649Sounds like you are running too rich. If running too rich, to adjust start the scooter and let it warm up good. Turn the screw in 1/4 turn increments starting clockwise. after each 1/4 turn wait 10 to 15 seconds to let the new setting catch up. If the RPM's go up do another 1/4 turn. If the RPM's do not increase, turn it 1/8 turn counterclockwise and you are set. If running too lean, to adjust start the scooter and let it warm up good. Turn the screw in 1/4 turn increments starting counterclockwise. after each 1/4 turn wait 10 to 15 seconds to let the new setting catch up. If the RPM's go up do another 1/4 turn. If the RPM's do not increase, turn it 1/8 turn clockwise and you are set. Attachments:
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 16, 2013 18:48:41 GMT -5
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 15, 2013 21:36:43 GMT -5
On scooters the negative wire on the battery is usually green. It will run from the battery to a grounding point on the frame. The positive connection on the battery usually has two red wires attached, a big one and a small one. The fuse holder is usually located along the small red wire that comes off the battery. A plastic enclosure with the fuse inside. The big red wire that comes off the battery goes to the starter solenoid. The solenoid has two large red wires attached to it and a small wire that leads to the start button on the handlebars.
Does the break light come on when the handle is squeezed with or without replacing that wire?If it doesn't without the wire in place but does with the wire in place, re-solder the wire in place.
If you have good battery power but the starter doesn't turn over you can test the solenoid by using two screwdrivers to jump across the two big terminals on the solenoid. There will be sparks. If the starter turns the engine over when you do this then the solenoid is suspect. If the starter doesn't turn over when you jump the contacts then the starter itself is suspect.
The generator you reference does put out 12 v DC but most likely at too high of an AMP rate to be good for your battery. Never charge a scooter battery at a rate more than 2 amps or you will overheat and ruin it.
If your scooter sat thru the winter in the cold without periodically charging the battery it could have ruined it,
The lights can come on with a low battery but the solenoid and starter motor take a fully charged battery to work properly.
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 15, 2013 19:26:48 GMT -5
On the tight side at .05MM. Try .1MM (.004 inches) Your valves might be expanding just enough while hot to not close properly.
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 15, 2013 19:01:31 GMT -5
As far as the fuel issue goes it could be something in the tank keeping the fuel from coming out, plastic bits have been found in tanks causing something like that to happen. Still if he is getting no spark it would not be a fuel or valve problem. He already ordered the cdi and coil, mght as well try them because they can kill the spark. The new parts may restore the spark, and I hope they do. But since he was saying he still isn't getting fuel through the new petcock I was floating solutions for THAT issue. You are right, could be something in the tank blocking delivery.
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 15, 2013 18:22:56 GMT -5
I'll follow up with asking whether or not you're getting any fuel with the new petcock AND what the condition of your vacuum lines are in? Having no spark is only half of it, no fuel and no fire. Agree with scootercapecod, if you are not getting fuel with a new petcock there is a vacuum problem. Maybe your motor sucked a valve. No compression = no vacuum. Test the new petcock by pulling the vacuum line off the intake manifold and gently suck on the end of it and see if fuel flows from the petcock. If it does pull the sparkplug and check compression. When checking for spark make sure the end of the sparkplug is firmly resting on bare metal, like the valve cover. Also make sure there is a good ground wire connection between the engine case and the frame, and the frame and the battery.
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Post by gatekeeper on Mar 15, 2013 3:37:52 GMT -5
Yes, that was me. If everything else is good, it will kick start and run without a charged battery. The kick starters on these are only meant to be used infrequently and are easily broken so lets get that electric starter going. From your description you could have a low battery, a loose connection in your wire harness, a bad ground or an intermittently bad fuse. Again, start with making sure you have a good, fully charged battery. Make sure the battery cable connections are clean and tight. Make sure the negative battery cable goes to a clean (bare metal) tight grounding point on the frame. Look for loose wire connectors and make sure your fuse is good. Also make sure there is no corrosion build up on the fuse connectors. Have you checked the valve gaps? If you have never adjusted the valves they are overdue. They should be adjusted to .004 inches on the intake and .005 inches on the exhaust. You don't really need to take the fan cover off. Just make sure the holes on the camshaft sprocket line up like they do in the video. Here is a video on how to do that. Here is a link back to the original problem you were having last summer. scootdawg.proboards.com/index.cgi?action=display&board=discussion&thread=52712&page=1#512043
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My Bali 250
by: gatekeeper - Mar 15, 2013 1:09:38 GMT -5
Post by gatekeeper on Mar 15, 2013 1:09:38 GMT -5
Nice! Thanks! It had some issues. The PO wanted $500 and I talked him down to $260. Thanks to JR and Alley I worked those issues out.
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