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Post by bjg on Apr 10, 2014 5:51:34 GMT -5
The silverwing is $10k the Forza is $5600. I've been toying with the idea because a new burgman or silverwing is out of my price range. There are a lot of differences to GY6 type scoots so I was hoping to get some feedback from someone who owned one. Probably too new though for a lot of people to have one yet.
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Post by bjg on Apr 9, 2014 13:42:47 GMT -5
279cc Honda ForzaI'm really interested in it. Pricing isnt terrible and specs look nice. Anyone got any experience with it?
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Post by bjg on Apr 9, 2014 12:51:58 GMT -5
My problem is that I can't see the one in the picture above to line it up. I think it's hidden by the silver plate on top of the sprocket. The picture is from the guide and not what I see on my engine. I was saying I can see the hole that goes through the sprocket entirely where you can only see a little bit of the hole through the sprocket in the picture above.
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Post by bjg on Apr 9, 2014 12:19:30 GMT -5
I can see that one but the guide says to align the marks in the picture above and the one in the port above the oil fill to ensure you are tdc.
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Post by bjg on Apr 9, 2014 11:55:09 GMT -5
 In the picture, if you look at the green line I've drawn you can see a hole in the sprocket just barely showing. On mine I can see the entire hole for all three holes through the sprocket. I'm thinking the silver guide on top of the sprocket is misaligned. If that is the case, is it ok to loosen the bolt in the center of the sprocket and shift it? I'm new to this so any help would be appreciated. |
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Post by bjg on Apr 9, 2014 11:19:59 GMT -5
I'm in the middle of a vlave adjustment on my 250cc scooter and I'm following the guide found on this site. Everything is going exactly as the guide has stated. I have the covers off both intake and outake valves, I have the plug out above the oil fill, and the cover off so I can see the timing chain. When I look at the casing by the timing chain I can see the alignment mark on the casing but I can't see any mark that I need to align with it. It should be visible through the guide holes as it shows in the picture but it isnt there. I've rotated the engine 3-4 times looking for it. Is there something I'm missing? Is there another way to tell if I'm top dead center so I can adjust the valves? Any help here would be appreciated.
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Post by bjg on Sept 19, 2013 6:52:45 GMT -5
bubba, before you start replacing parts figure out what is broken. For the engine to run you need the right air/fuel mix, good compression, and a spark.
To check the spark, pull the spark plug, put it back in the boot, hold it by the rubber part of the boot and put the metal at the bottom of the plug against the metal of the engine and try to start the bike. If you see a steady blue pulsing spark you have good spark. that would rule out things like the pickup coil and your CDI.
To check if the issue is with your air/fuel mix, remove your spark plug then take a piece of fuel line and dip it in your gas tank a few inches and put your thumb over the hole to trap a little gas in the line and transfer this little bit of gas (maybe a teaspoon worth) into the engine through the spark plug hole. Be sure the engine is cold when you do this (it is flamable after all). Put your spark plug back in and try to start the engine. With that amount of gas it should start and run for a minute or so. If it does start then you have a problem getting gas/air to the engine.
To check compression, pick up a compression tester. You can get a kit pretty cheap from harbor frieght or your local auto parts place. The use the compression tester you remove the spark plug and install the compression tester in the hole. Then hold the throttle wide open and try to start the engine. The gauge will tell you how much the piston is able to compress the gas in the cylinder. You should see at least 100 psi. If you don't see that then you might have an exhaust valve leaking by or something like that.
I'm not an expert like some of these guys but these tests can hep you narrow down where the problem is. As for the starting harder after a few days, my scooter does that as well. What I have found with mine is that there is a vacuum valve that lets the gas flow from the tank into the carb bowl. Over time with the scooter not running the bowl empties and it won't refil until the vacuum valve opens. The engine has to be turning over to create the vacuum which happens when you are trying to start the scooter but it takes a minute for the carb bowl to refil. When I start mine after a few days of not running I crank it for a few seconds then wait a minute or two and then start it and it usually fires right up. I'm sure there is a way to fix that but this work around is easy and doesnt bother me. Good luck and happy hunting.
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Post by bjg on Sept 10, 2013 9:47:08 GMT -5
Well JR, I followed your belch guide and so far so good. I think previously the lines to my overflow tank were empty and I didn't get enough flow going to fill them so when the engine cooled I sucked air back in. Using the procedure you linked I could clearly see the flow out of the radiator into the overflow tank. I just waited until I saw the level come up a bit in the overflow tank, capped it, ran the temp up to mid, shut it off, waited for it to cool, and topped it off and it's been good since.
Thanks everyone for the help.
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Post by bjg on Sept 7, 2013 6:12:56 GMT -5
I will try everything mentioned about burping the system. The issue was there before I changed the coolant but the overflow tank was low so maybe it sucked in some air.
I know I am getting flow through the radiator because I can feel the heat come up through the inlet and out the outlet of the radiator and eventually the radiator fan comes on. It takes about 20 minutes befoe the temp starts climbing so I'm worried that the radiator cap is stuck open. I would think that is about how long it would take to start to boil the antifreeze if there is no pressure in the system. If that were the issue though I would think I would be seeing a change in the overflow tank level. The tank is large relative to the radiator so maybe I'm just missing it.
So possibilities at this time are air in the system and maybe a bad radiator cap. Anything else anyone can think of?
As for the carb, I have stock jets in the carb and I'm running an NGK DR8EA. That's what was in there when I got the scooter.
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Post by bjg on Sept 6, 2013 17:15:43 GMT -5
So in a previous thread I posted some questions about coolant and got some excellent advice. I've since flushed the radiator and refilled it with decent aluminum safe 50/50 mix coolant and I have my overflow tank filled to ~1/2 full. I started the scoot and warmed it up and I could tell when the thermostat opened as I felt the coolant hoses warm. I gave a a little throttle and held it and watched the temp slowly climb to near the red over about 20 minutes (it used to come up and sit mid range). As the temp approached the red the radiator fan came on. What I didn't see was the overflow tank level rise any noticeable amount and the temp continued to rise. Just below the red I shut it off.
I think based on what I saw that the thermostat is working, the temp switch for the radiator fan is working, and the pump is working (both inlet and outlet hoses of the radiator warmed).
If I understand how this is all supposed to work, a shut radiator cap would cause the system to over pressurize and maybe blow a hose but I should get good cooling. A stuck open radiator cap would let the coolant boil and I'd over heat but I think I'd see the overflow go up a bit...wouldn't I?
I'm confused. Can someone help me here? What am I missing? The scoot ran fine less than a month ago.
btw - this is the same symptoms that prompted me to change the coolant (except that previously my overflow level was low)
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Post by bjg on Sept 4, 2013 12:22:03 GMT -5
 I just about sh#t myself when i followed the link you listed for the low tox stuff. Must be for a case of it because Amazon's price was nearly what I paid for the scooter. I found it for around $17-18 a gallon elsewhere though. Is anyone running Prestone Dex-Cool or Prestone Prime? I read up a bit and found blue is Korean/European and it contains silicates. There was an article I read that recommended against switching to some of the newer formulations if you had been running a silicate based formula because it shortens the coolant life. I don't have enough experience to know how well scooter coolant systems flush out. Any thoughts?
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Post by bjg on Sept 4, 2013 7:33:42 GMT -5
Recently i noticed my scooter running a bit warm...almost hot after about 30 minutes of riding. I took a look at my overflow tank and the level is low which brings me to my questions.
First, I have no idea what coolant is currently in the system. I know it's blue in color but that's about it so topping it off with the same brand would be difficult.
Question #1 - Is it ok to mix brands or should I drain it and refil it with fresh coolant? (I was thinking mixing wouldnt be so good)
Question #2 - What brand of coolant do you recommend?
Question #3 - Got any tips or tricks to draining/refilling the coolant?
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Post by bjg on Jul 6, 2013 6:31:09 GMT -5
I bought an ignition key/lockset from them. A bit pricey but I got my part with no issues.
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Post by bjg on Jul 5, 2013 13:41:21 GMT -5
If it's the same as mine it's on the side with your exhaust. See the pic below #7 is the stator itself and #8 is the pickup coil.  |
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Post by bjg on Jul 5, 2013 7:30:43 GMT -5
I had a really difficult starting problem but I’m happy to say my scooter is up and running again (It was a CDI problem). While the road has been quite painful, I did learn a few things so I thought I’d share. Who knows, maybe it will help someone. To do a quick recap, my starter was cranking but the engine would not run. I knew I needed a good air/fuel mix, compression, and a spark to get the engine running but I wasn’t clear on how to check those things. Here are some of the tests I found along the way that were helpful.
Testing for good Spark. Pull the spark plug, put it back in the boot, hold it by the boot with the metal of the plug against the side of the engine and crank. You should have a nice strong pulsing blue spark. The pulse should be rapid and almost continuous (thanks alleyoop)
Check Compression. Pick up a compression tester (harbor freight has them pretty cheap), remove the spark plug and install the tester, and crank (with the throttle wide open for max air). Compression should be more than 100psi.
Testing the Pickup Coil. Follow the wire that runs from the Pickup coil on the engine to the CDI module (usually Blue/Yellow) and measure on AC volts at the back of the pin as it enters the connector for the CDI. You should see zero volts when you are not cranking and about 0.5vac when you are cranking. (This is the trigger to tell the CDI to fire the ignition coil).
Testing the Ignition Coil The coil itself should measure about 14-16 ohms. One side connects to ground and the other to the CDI. Measure the connection to the ignition coil (usually Black/Yellow) at the ignition coil on AC volts. This should be zero when the engine isn’t turning and about 15-30vac when you are cranking.
Rule the Carb in/out. Remove the spark plug and put about a tablespoon worth of gas in the spark plug hole then reinstall the plug and start the motor. With this amount of gas in the cylinder the engine should run for 10-20 seconds or so (even if the carb isn’t supplying air/fuel at all). To add the gas safely, dip a piece of clean fuel line into the gas tank and then hold your thumb over the end of the tube to trap the gas in the tube. Next put the tube into the spark plug hole and let your thumb off the end to release the gas. (Don't do this on a hot engine...it is flamable after all)
Check the Sparkplug after trying to start. Try and start the motor for several attempts (~10 seconds of cranking each time) then pull the spark plug. If the plug is wet you have too much gas going into the cylinder and not enough air (flooding the engine).
Is the CDI Enabled? If you have a DC CDI, you should have battery voltage on one of the pins going into the CDI when both the kill switch and the key are in the on position. If you have an AC CDI, the voltage to power the CDI comes from the stator itself (usually a Black/Red wire) and the kill switch and ignition switch make a ground connection that can kill the engine when turned off.
I don't claim to be an expert so any of you experts out there feel free to chime in and adjust any of these (or add to it). I can tell you though that these tests helped me a lot. Cheers.
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