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Post by scootcouper on May 10, 2018 9:54:37 GMT -5
Thanks guys, my question is really about how to get bleeding going once the system has been run more or less empty. Here's an image of the brake system -- as you can see, the two levers go to a "proportion valve" that then distributes the fluid to the three brakes. So the left lever actuates all three calipers and the right lever actuates only the front two calipers. With a setup like that, how am I supposed to bleed it? Do I need to bleed from the proportion valve down, and then up to the reservoirs somehow? Totally stumped on this one.
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Post by scootcouper on May 9, 2018 21:19:37 GMT -5
Hmm, so problem not fixed. After the brake cleaner cleaning the right front caliper started freezing and not releasing when the brakes were applied.
I ordered three new calipers on Amazon and put them on tonight. The brake fluid that came out was dark brown and there was quite a bit of gunk in the right master cylinder. After replacing the calipers I couldn’t get the brakes to bleed at all so I back bled the right front with a syringe and that seemed to work.
I then bled the left front and rear, but the right lever is still spongy and the left lever has no resistance at all. I tried back bleeding the left and rear but they wouldn’t take any fluid.
I’m guessing since there is a proportion valve involved there must be a trick to this I’m missing.
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Post by scootcouper on Apr 30, 2018 14:04:16 GMT -5
Since I also work on 80's arcade games I do know that capacitors are a wear item and eventually degrade and fail. The "C" in CDI stands for Capacitor in some regard so that may be it?
It was a total mystery -- I brought it to a motorcycle shop to keep in their winter storage facility and when I picked it up at the beginning of April I didn't think I was going to make it home it was running so poorly. Most of the opinions I got initially were vacuum failure or a leak in the intake manifold so at this point it should be pretty solid since I replaced the carb, intake manifold and all the vacuum lines!
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Post by scootcouper on Apr 30, 2018 12:17:24 GMT -5
This seems to have been caused by gunked up brake caliper pistons. I took the calipers off, sprayed them with brake cleaner and re-lubricated the slide pins and the brakes are now much easier to pull. They are dual piston calipers and when I was pushing one piston down to push the other one up, it almost popped completely out and some brake fluid leaked, so think I have some air in the system now. I'll bleed it and hopefully will be in good shape.
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Post by scootcouper on Apr 30, 2018 12:14:00 GMT -5
After eliminating everything else, I replaced the CDI and the coil/spark plug wire this weekend -- problem solved. It now starts up instantly and runs great, so in the end this was 100% electrical.
Thanks for everyone's help
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Post by scootcouper on Apr 24, 2018 12:52:06 GMT -5
Thanks chewbaca -- there are two levers and three brake calipers, one lever actuates two at a time and the other lever actuates three at a time. If I understand what you're recommending, hook up a bleeder hose and a jar to one of the bleeder valves, open the bleeder valve and squeeze the lever, see if there is resistance. If not, close that bleeder valve and move on to the next one -- correct?
When testing the front brake lever should I have both bleeder valves open at the same time for both front brakes?
I assume I should keep the reservoir covers on during the test?
Thank you!
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Post by scootcouper on Apr 24, 2018 12:31:24 GMT -5
Thank you tortoise, yes it's a great vehicle! Tons of fun to drive. It does have a 2-bolt valve cover and the top bolt is right behind a frame member so you can't get a socket on it for extra maintenance challenge. It's also nearly impossible to view the flywheel markings to determine TDC -- I have to use the camera on my phone to take a picture, move the engine fan, take a picture etc.
In terms of your suggestions I did check the muffler and looked for arcing wiring, although my ability to view the engine is limited due to the bodywork on the scootcoupe.
Thanks!
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Post by scootcouper on Apr 24, 2018 9:51:32 GMT -5
Second issue on my 150cc scoot coupe -- the brake levers are very hard to pull. They are not soft or spongy, they just take a lot of force to pull the levers.
Here's what I've done so far:
1) Replaced brake pads and lubed slide pins
2) Bled brakes a bit and put some new fluid in the reservoirs
3) Verified that fluid level isn't too high or too low
4) Verified that lever is not the issue, i.e. lever nut is not too tight.
The scootcoupe has a bit of an odd braking system where the left lever actuates the front and rear brakes, and the right lever does the front brakes only. Both levers are very hard to pull.
I have a second scootcoupe and the levers take about 30% of the effort to pull.
Any help would be appreciated -- I did not do a complete bleed of the system as I'm not sure how best to do that since the left lever actuates both the front and rear brakes.
Thank you!
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Post by scootcouper on Apr 24, 2018 9:47:05 GMT -5
Hello all and thank you in advance for your help! I have a 150cc GY6 Scootcoupe trike, when I put it away for the winter, it was running perfectly. When I got it out this spring, it's running poorly. It is starting a little hard, idles perfectly, but is losing power under acceleration, it feels like the engine is missing / running rough.
Here's what I've tried so far:
1) I replaced the carb with a brand new carb off of Amazon -- no difference at all in how the scooter is running.
2) I replaced the intake manifold and all the vacuum lines -- no difference at all in how the scooter is running.
3) I removed the air filter and took a brief test ride, no difference at all
4) I replaced the spark plug, no difference at all
5) I checked the valve lash -- it's where it should be
6) I replaced the fuel filter, no difference at all
My experience is that its either fuel, air, or spark, and I feel I've ruled out air and fuel, so it must be spark. I'm not sure what to check next -- stator? voltage regulator? coil? All three?
Any help would be appreciated!
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