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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 5, 2017 9:23:02 GMT -5
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 5, 2017 8:01:44 GMT -5
the unfortunate deal is that i wont be able to ride it around for a while as i have it inside my basement torn apart awaiting more parts in the mail. there was about 4 metal bits in the screen and like 2 or 3 more that came out in the oil not very big but big enough to notice and the oil was silvery looking. the oil that came out was nasty looking when i did the first oil change in my possession thus the reason why i drained it again after 12 miles of riding. i can say there was no play in the connecting rod when i built it. im thinking im going to get the other engine for a just in case scenario and run this one until it ither pops or stops giving me metal in the oil. i will obviously flush out the engine as best as possible. as it sits right now i left it draining overnight so today ill fill it up as full as i possibly can pull spark plug wire off rotate the engine a few times and drain it ill probably do this a few times or until i stop seeing metal then hope my issues are over.
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 4, 2017 21:37:00 GMT -5
i know little of the history of the scooter other than it ran up until about 6 months ago when it blew the belt. for some reason they took the 80cc kit it had off and tried to use it on another scooter but failed as they dident have the gaskets. this engine sat open for an un determined amount of time. when i built it i cleaned out as much as i could reach inside put a new 80cc kit on and then drained the oil in it it looked bad i flushed a half a quart through it because it was all i had extra then filled it up and rode it 12 miles home. it currently lives inside today i decided to drain the 12 mile oil and found many metal fragments most of them caught in the filter screen as well as the oil looked sparkly. can the new rings and piston be causing this? the engine did not knock after building it. im planning to flush it out as best as i can how worried should i be? i can have the engine with the im guessing broken key on the flywheel witch was a built motor up until 1 week ago it just did not run due to the timing being off.
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 2, 2017 17:28:19 GMT -5
never mind i fixed it rectifier was bad
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Post by sirtokesalot on Feb 2, 2017 13:49:46 GMT -5
i got my scooter home today its a vip has typical gy6 engine i have no electrics working except the headlights witch run on ac current. no tach no gas gauge no cluster lights no blinkers no tail light no brake light. if i hook up a battery charger this stuff all starts working is this a classic case of bad stator? or is it more complicating than that?  |
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Post by sirtokesalot on Jan 30, 2017 6:38:15 GMT -5
went back again last night and fixed the jammed variator the second one started right up no issues after that as well.
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Post by sirtokesalot on Jan 29, 2017 15:24:36 GMT -5
the f mark was lined up to the reluctor but i did figure out why it wouldn't run when i was checking the marks i lined it up to the T mark and the piston was still half way down the cylinder even on the f mark it was still not at the top. i just built one of the other engines he had in the garage swapped it over and it fired right up. i began building the next one that is going ot be mine got it all together and had the same issue where it dident want to run when kick starting it i jump started it from my car it started and ran but the wheel was spinning and wouldent rev right took side cover off after he told me there was a new belt on the one i was building for me they never reset the variator so its jammed in top gear have to go back again now with cordless impact for that but im now confident its gonna run as well.
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Post by sirtokesalot on Jan 25, 2017 22:05:09 GMT -5
im not sure someone els was working on them before me and had done so very poorly i have been told all of the 4 engines there have been apart and back together a few times. is there a way i can tell from looking at it? as it is right now i have ordered 2 80cc kits because he wants his to go faster and the one im going to be able to keep will need one as well. i also bought a new carb because all the carbs he has in the garage are crap non tune-able carbs the only good carb is the one on the bike im trying to get running now i was told it is new but cleaned it anyways. im supposed to get these parts on monday so ill probably be going back to work on them again next Wednesday they are not at my house.
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Post by sirtokesalot on Jan 25, 2017 19:24:49 GMT -5
Verify flywheel/crankshaft woodruff key has not sheared . . which alters trigger-coil timing. Insert a probe into the sparkplug hole and turn flywheel to position piston at top-dead-center . . then observe if flywheel T-mark is aligned with case indicator. i had the head off today and the piston was all the way up with it aligned at the t mark. |
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Post by sirtokesalot on Jan 25, 2017 15:03:01 GMT -5
ive been working on a few scooters recently with the motivation that if i get one to run for him i can use the remaining parts to build one for me. the issue im having is that the scooter wont run. i have changed the gas - cleaned the new carb - found missing intake gasket o ring and replaced it - checked valve clearance adjusted valves - retimed the engine it was off one tooth - disabled vacuum fuel shut off - tore the engine apart found one of the rings was stuck replaced cylender and piston with low mile cylinder and piston from my old scooter days i had as spare parts currently scooter still wont run. it has spark compression air and fuel are getting to the cylinder when i crank it the engine sputters and if i hold wide open throttle the rpm raised up as it sputters faster trying to run but just wont kick over and actually run. am i missing something?
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