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Post by pistonguy on Sept 22, 2017 9:03:59 GMT -5
 What engine in the Scooter world is Not OHC with Ball Bearing Crank Journals in the last like forever? Boy I better stay away from that Flat Head Push Rod Babbit Journal Crank Bearing Scooter or M/C Motor.. c'mon i have no idea why you think that's so funny. it's a fact that OHC engines can sustain a higher RPM than ones operated by pushrods. ball bearings present less friction than a bushing. i apologize that i haven't tore down every scooter engine on the planet. Its the Scooter world. I find allot of humor starting with my own GY based rolling pile of Plastic. Why so funny? cuz is a simple no brainer, really nothing else out there. we prolly go back to ww1 or ww2 to find some Push Rod Scooters. I'm sure someone will find something out there. And were could I dig up some ol Scoot engine with Babbbit bearings. HD still sticks to its legendary Push rod motor in there full size bikes. And yes there are OHC/OHV but there are Rocker Arm actuated, The Rocker arm Scoot is more like Low rpm general service tater digger engine. In the big pictures of two wheel machines these Scoots are all done when a real bike is just starting to come alive. You don't have to apologize for anything just laugh and roll with it. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 20, 2017 11:28:39 GMT -5
I have that exact Impact from Harbor freight, in addition to my pneumatics. It has plenty of Snots to blow off 1-1/4 rusted mower nuts and much more. Ive used mine for all my CVT tuning. Some really good money spent then add the coupon and always some free swag from Harbor freight. Cant beat it |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 20, 2017 9:05:13 GMT -5
Wow kinda wild the engine is even capable of using that much fuel in so little time.
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 19, 2017 21:15:26 GMT -5
Thats what I figured, I didn't want to assume.
If its good, go with it, monitor it in the future just incase.
good luck
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 19, 2017 16:59:33 GMT -5
Perfect, I think your headed in the right direction dbbl and triple check the work, any doubt roll her over again end check your work. Good luck What gauge feeler did you use? .004 or .005? Got it taken part and just need to adjust now. Did you also replace the o ring? I was just reading that red silicone with the old o-ring should do the trick. Go with the .004 A fairly firm feel, be aware not to firm as to compress the valve spring. Roll the engine over again and bbl check your work. then roll the engine over again and triple check your work. it just takes a couple minutes to re-check your work and be confident it is correct, this is important What "o" wrong are you referring to? |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 18, 2017 22:42:23 GMT -5
Anyone here take their 250s on the highway? I am looking at a CF Moto, it has a 250 in it but i am looking to get something i can take to my school which is about a 40 minute drive down the interstate. the top speed of a stock 244 is around 70mph. a speed of 65mph should be easily achieved. don't forget that these are OHC engines with ball bearing crank journals and can easily handle rpms that other types of engines can't. increasing the roller weight will increase the top end up to a point, maybe adding 5-10 mph. What engine in the Scooter world is Not OHC with Ball Bearing Crank Journals in the last like forever? Boy I better stay away from that Flat Head Push Rod Babbit Journal Crank Bearing Scooter or M/C Motor.. c'mon |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 18, 2017 21:49:13 GMT -5
You mentioned that You had the Valves Adjusted some 300 miles ago or so. Was this done by a friend, technician or you? At WFO for extended periods the engine is at its Max Temp, if your Valves were adjusted a Tad tight or Incorrectly 300 miles ago the Lash may be closing up at that WFO extended period. The Exhaust Valve being the Hotter of the Two is Most likely closing the lash at that Max Temp leaking compression, the engine Will slow down till it quits ,also explain why its so hard to start back up while Hot. ya prolly got squat for compression when Hot. With the extra cranking it takes to get it started the Fresh Fuel charge cools the assy, to were it will start up and repeat... I would dbl, and triple check my Valve lash. Kinda sounds like a classic case of a GY closing its Lash. Good luck Thanks. I had a technician do it but worth a recheck as well. I did have a feeling it was due to overheating but wasn't sure where to start. I'll start with this one and then work my way through. Perfect, I think your headed in the right direction dbbl and triple check the work, any doubt roll her over again end check your work. Good luck |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 18, 2017 10:11:30 GMT -5
So does the engine actually need a pcv valve? To keep pressure or something. If pistonguy says there's no pcv valve in the top of the head then the pcv hose just goes to the airbox...no valve there. Can i just route the hose to under the scooter and let it poo out on the road? No the Engine does Not need a pcv.. Hoping you looked at my pictures in my link of my Two pcv equipped hoses, the one on the Left came from the valve cover and I have removed that now not working pcv with a new hose and run up high as you see and lop the end back into a simple Clear catch bottle. I have a hour or so run time on her and there is no oil in the bottle. I wouldn't recommend dumping it to the road, Not cool, slippery enough out there. Just think if I woulda dumped mine to the road I would have never known it was dumping until she cooked her. I have a eyeball on my bottle.. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 18, 2017 9:23:13 GMT -5
Hey bro the link is for Lucas 85w-140 Heavy Duty Gear oil, were are you putting that? Are you running that in your Injector? or if no what Two Stroke either injector or pre-mix oil are you using? this is important Your Fouling a Bunch of Plugs then with new plug she runs great. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 18, 2017 9:12:30 GMT -5
You mentioned that You had the Valves Adjusted some 300 miles ago or so.
Was this done by a friend, technician or you?
At WFO for extended periods the engine is at its Max Temp, if your Valves were adjusted a Tad tight or Incorrectly 300 miles ago the Lash may be closing up at that WFO extended period.
The Exhaust Valve being the Hotter of the Two is Most likely closing the lash at that Max Temp leaking compression, the engine Will slow down till it quits ,also explain why its so hard to start back up while Hot. ya prolly got squat for compression when Hot.
With the extra cranking it takes to get it started the Fresh Fuel charge cools the assy, to were it will start up and repeat...
I would dbl, and triple check my Valve lash.
Kinda sounds like a classic case of a GY closing its Lash.
Good luck
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2017 8:42:26 GMT -5
the head vent and crankcase vent on my 244 vented to the atmosphere. of course, there were "baffles" in the valve cover to mostly prevent oil from seeping out. a PCV valve is vented to the intake or air breather on the cars i've worked on, this probably explains pistonguys problems with them. Curious, what are your technical hands on experience? Or what are your credentials? |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 17, 2017 6:28:24 GMT -5
So is there a pcv valve built into the head where the hose attaches? No. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 16, 2017 19:29:44 GMT -5
Is it fixed?...... No. It's still making that strange noise. Perhaps I'll try to get a video of it at some point so you can all hear it for yourselves. I went about 24 miles on the first ride with lots of engine loading, engine braking and changes in rpm to get the engine break-in period started. The noise was coming and going through-out the ride but didn't appear to have any effect on performance. I don't know what to make of it. I guess I'll just keep riding and eventually let it go out in a final blaze of glory while at full throttle down a big hill. Touche!! Gotta love ya rollin with it..  |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 16, 2017 19:25:11 GMT -5
A two pack of stainless steel dish scrubbers $1 Two 2.5" end caps ¢50 6" × 2.5" section of PVC pipe ¢10? A .5" NPT tap $10 Any number of 1/5 NPT to 1/8 hose barbs Makes this thing 
catches all the oil and let's it drain back into the motor when stopped works very well as long as it's above the valve cover vent Chewy's on it again. This will work. |
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Post by pistonguy on Sept 16, 2017 19:09:58 GMT -5
the head vent and crankcase vent on my 244 vented to the atmosphere. of course, there were "baffles" in the valve cover to mostly prevent oil from seeping out. a PCV valve is vented to the intake or air breather on the cars i've worked on, this probably explains pistonguys problems with them. Nah Brah I've been running this set-up for over three years with no issues.. The check Valve from Scrappy is Crappy and went South. wouldn't matter were it was vented to it wasn't venting... The pressure built up and the Oil came from the pcv I have running from my Oil dipstick hole The Valve cover pcv wouldn't vent enough to get the oil back in the motor. Good thing a ran two as if I didn't it would have Puffed all the seals out of her. Oh it was quite the sight, looked like a grenade from Daytona, Oiled down the rear wheel, pipe, a Smoke show she was. Scroll down a few and there is a good pic of my Two pcv in place. www.dansgaragetalk.com/topic/934-shooters-scooters-on-n2o/ |
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