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Post by B. A. M. F. on Jul 20, 2013 16:12:12 GMT -5
ahh, thanks. I found them. they were on the opposite side of the seat, tucked down towards the plastics. now I have to get my hands on a light tester...
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Jul 20, 2013 15:17:27 GMT -5
Ive been really wanting to get a small trailer for my trike. I really want to build a cage/ kennel out of it for my dog so I can take her out on rides! (please no animal cruelty comments, I know she'll love it and im an expert welder and can make it plenty safe enough) plus it would be good for when I needed to haul other stuff around.
but I kept getting stuck on ways I would attach one to the scoot! do they make scooter trailer hitches? motorcycle trailer hitches are ment to mount to the rear axle which isn't possible. I know I could make some thing that attaches to the rear frame under the seat and comes around the cvt and exhaust out to behind the wheel, but that a whole lot of engineering and work that I don't have time for now, or in the foreseeable futute...
So how are people towing trailers on scooters? whats the trick I don't know? I need something that allows leaning. the bicycle trailers seem like a good start because of the way they mount but those skinny tires on them seem like a bad idea goin 40mph over a pothole...
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Jul 20, 2013 14:41:55 GMT -5
Im trying to locate a replacement cable for a df50tka. its the cable that throws a pin that locks the front suspension to the frame, allowing it to stand upright on its own. it looks like a short, thicker throttle cable but one end has a u-shaped bracket. has anyone else had to replace one of these and can tell me where to find one? ive sent in requests to a few sites online but they havnt gotten back to me yet. thought someone here might have some experience with it. I think this is just a part from some other application, like a 4 wheeler or go-kart or something because the way these Chinese "companies" swap parts back and forth. maybe someone knows what it is... Attachments:
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Jul 20, 2013 13:46:12 GMT -5
the brake lights do come on. when I hit the start button I get no clicks or anything...
there are no other wires coming of the solenoid except the red one which leads down to the battery and the black one that goes to the starter...
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Jul 20, 2013 12:13:45 GMT -5
Hi all. I first encountered this problem then I put a new 83cc engine on my DF50TKA and had a bunch of problems with it staying running and the starter wouldn't work. I sent it off to the local scoot shop here and after looking at it they were able to get it running but couldn't get the starter fixed. they said I might need a new one. they also said I had a bunch of damaged wires around the bike which was the reason it wouldn't stay running. the tech who worked on it wasn't there when I picked it up so I couldn't get en exact description on what he did, but I think it had a lot to do with the electric choke, causing it to flood and foul the plug.
About a month back I asked people here about some of the problems and someone (I believe it was allyoop (sp?)) told me to bridge the 2 terminals on my solenoid and see what happens. at the time (before the shop fixed my wiring) when I did this I could hear the starter motor spinning but it wasn't engaging. I just tried to mess around with it this morning and when I bridged the 2 terminals, it immediately fired up!
So what does this mean? is the solenoid fried? is it the starter switch or a connection in between? anyone know the next step I should take? it getting really old kicking this thing to get it to start. when its cold it starts fine but after I ride it and shut it off, I have to give it full throttle and kick the crap out of it to get it to start...
thanks!!!
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Jun 21, 2013 6:10:32 GMT -5
ahh, yes. meant to include some of that info...
the lights and fuel gauge work when I turn the key, although shortly after I got home it occurred to me that I never did check to make sure the brake lights came on, which occurred to me might be a big deal. maybe its not starting because the bike simply isn't recognizing im pressing the brake. ill look into that. but the fact that the lights worked seemed like a good sign that I didn't completely FUBAR everything.
Ill look into everything more today and report back... thanks!
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Jun 21, 2013 0:36:56 GMT -5
I recently got a new crate motor from scrappys along with a 83cc BBK, which was installed by the local scooter shop here. After bolting everything up and kicking it over a few times, it fired up. purred like a kitten you could say. I let it idle for about 20 mins like numerous ppl have said to let the new gaskets and such heat up and "melt" to make a good seal before I gave it any gas (by that I mean throttle, obviously it was getting a little gas to let it run...) So after that I did a few laps around the parking lot at my work to make sure it was good to go as I would rather have any problems happen there rather than in the middle of the road on my way home, leaving me stranded. It seemed to run ok, although the acceleration acted a little funny. What I would describe as "stuttering". About a half second of lots of power, then a half second of nothing. Not less power really, just kind of a flat spot, followed by another half second burst of power, and so on... As my scoot has been out of commission for about 2 months now and ive been relying on co-workers for rides, I was about to take my chances with it and ride home. Was SOOO looking forward to being mobile again! I figured id work out the bugs shortly. So the parking lot at my work is fenced in and the last one to leave has to close and lock the gate. I left the bike (trike really) running to lock it up as is I was going back to the scoot, it bogged down and died. I spent about 10 mins kicking it over and nothing... At this point I want to say that the reason Im kicking this thing is that the starter on the new engine came with 2 wires coming out of it, one leading to one of those plastic plugs, which my scoot didn't have, and another which for the life of me I cant remember exactly what it was right now, but I want to say is a ground. I just know that the original starter I had had only one wire coming out of it that led to an eyelet, that hooked up to a "thingy" (because I don't know what to call it) next to the CDI. That wire is a negative I suppose because its a black wire and the other wire on the other side of the "thingy" has a red wire hooked up straight up to the battery. So I figured the best option was to put the old starter back on with the wire I figured would work. It didn't. And I hold the brake, hit the start button, nothing, not even a click. like I said, I figured it was just another bug I would fix shortly. I wouldn't have minded kicking it a few days as long as I had wheels under me to get around. So after kicking it a while and trying to figure out what was up with it I looked at it and noticed that one of the grounds had come loose (off) while I went on my little test ride. A little green one that was part of a pair that grounded to a bolt that holds that little elbow between the carb and the engine itself. I also noticed that another plastic wiring clip was disconnected. two little wires which I know I hooked up at one point, but as everything was coming together I had to disconnect to move around the frame out of the way, and im not 100% sure I reconnected, but pretty sure I did. but either way, connected or not, that was the way it was when the engine first ran, except for that ground that came loose. I should have taken pictures of this before I left to give ppl I better idea of what talking about. I work at a body shop, painting cars (or motorcycles, or planes, or anything really, as long as it can be sprayed with a gun) and sometimes we get a car that has been taken apart for us to paint a core support (the main front structure of a car that holds the radiator, front bumper, and usually the headlights on, which the hood locks into). some of these cars (toyotas and BMWs especially) have a thing that if certain grounds arnt hooked up, it will fry the whole wiring harness. Its a big deal around the shop to make sure that those kinda cars don't even get the key put in the ignition. just turning it on (not starting it, just turning the key one click to the on position, will fry it) a new Toyota wiring harness will cost you around $1000. that's parts. if you're a weekend mechanic and realize you f'ed up, I cant even imagine what the labor rate would cost you to replace one by a pro. My main point/question here is that is it possible to fry a scooter wiring harness? Im definitely getting compression in my motor, can feel it when I kick. Im thinking its electrical at this point. but it failed after I locked up my shop, my boss doesn't give out keys so I couldn't get back to my tools to investigate much more. it might be something so easy as checking the main fuse or whatever. I also will apologize and give props to anyone reading this line. Most of my posts on this forum have been lengthy, drawn out, and pretty much considered rambling to most ppl, so thanks for hanging in! but I think when you get on a forum like this, asking/or pleading for help, there is no such thing as thing as too much information. so that's what I try to give. About everyone this forum rocks! If you need your scoot painted up professionally... hit me up. I can give u a deal. And I mean professionally. not that maaco slapdick crap!
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1p39qmb
by: B. A. M. F. - Jun 11, 2013 22:02:49 GMT -5
Post by B. A. M. F. on Jun 11, 2013 22:02:49 GMT -5
lykos, was that the stock factory engine that came with the original scoot? or was this an after market engine? looking into this more it seems like the "p" is just a mark that the engine that has been modified ?however?. mine had the tall head. The 39 in 139qmb should mean its 39mm bore, 50cc. maybe they threw a 44mm BBK from the factory, threw a P on the engine code for legal reasons...
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1p39qmb
by: B. A. M. F. - Jun 11, 2013 20:43:07 GMT -5
Post by B. A. M. F. on Jun 11, 2013 20:43:07 GMT -5
I did some research on this a few month back as mine came stock with a 1p39qmb and was curious myself. what I was lead to believe was the "p" ment it had the longer valve/higher head, something like a 69mm valve length, which seems to be more and more common for engines made with in the past 2-3 years. don't know if its better than a 139qmb, but if these cheap Chinese companies are willing to spend the money to convert their factories to produce them, they've done some kinda testing to make sure its legit...
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1P50QMG???
by: B. A. M. F. - Jun 7, 2013 18:50:25 GMT -5
Post by B. A. M. F. on Jun 7, 2013 18:50:25 GMT -5
Teddy, I did not pay with paypal, so that wouldn't matter anyways, but they offered me a refund right away. They also gave me the option to send me a 50, and refund the difference, wait for another one from their supplier (about a month), or send me the 50cc and a 100cc BBK that i would have to install myself, both instock and ready to go. I chose the latter. Aside from the headache of the delays and the huge inconvenience its been as this is my main form of transportation, The staff at scrappy dogs have been extremely caring and knowledgeable, and from dealing with some other scooter companies, its a pleasant surprise. I don't want to take anything away from them...
Skutta, this is a 4t, I'm pretty sure, because of the big black cvt cover that says 4 stroke. The same as most of the 150s I see around. That was kinda my first clue something wasn't right... but if you still want it ill be happy to sell it to you. Ill pm you more on that.
But I will agree that you cant beat a good ride through the mountains, and the best place for a roadtrip is through the Carolinas... Im not a native but I love it down here!
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1P50QMG???
by: B. A. M. F. - Jun 6, 2013 18:25:33 GMT -5
Post by B. A. M. F. on Jun 6, 2013 18:25:33 GMT -5
So I ordered a complete motor for my scoot from scrappys 2 months ago and it finally showed up today. Supplier and custom delays they say but I'm not here to gripe about that. I ordered the "100cc" (83cc) 50mm long case. After opening it up and taking a close look at it I noticed that there is no way this thing would bolt up to my ride. The mounts were on top instead of the bottom, and the mounts for the center stand were not there.
So I called them and explained, they said they would look into it and call me back, which they did. A very nice lady named shelly (I think) then told me that their supplier made a mistake and sent them a whole bunch of the wrong engines. What they sent me is a 1p50qmg which I found out is a downgraded 125cc instead of an upgraded 50cc. They are working with me to fix the problem and gave me some options, but then told me that the engine they did send me was mine. "Do want you want with it, sell it, whatever..." They didn't even want it back.
So now I got this 83cc motor that will fit on a 150 or 125cc scoot. Is it even worth anything besides spare parts and scrap metal? Why would someone want to put this on a bike that can fit a 150? WHY DO THEY EVEN MAKE THESE??? I kinda realize why don't want it back. Maybe there's a few parents out there with an old broken scooter they might fix to give to their teenager but don't want it to go as fast as a 150... but that's the only scenario I can think of as a reason that this motor even exists.
So I guess my question is... What the should I do with this thing??? Try to sell it even though I doubt anyone will want it? Strip it down and scrap the aluminum? Maybe I'll build a little go-cart frame and make myself a new toy... im pretty handy with a welder...
I was thinking if I could maybe sell it to someone who really needed to get their scooter back on the road but didn't want to (or couldn't) pay full price for a new 150cc, a $200 asking price seems fair to me, even though its a huge downgrade. A lot of people here in NC run small frame 150s and try to pass them off as 50s so they don't have to tag or insure them, so a good selling point might be that a cop will never catch them doing 65mph, and get busted.
Dunno. What would you do?
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Apr 5, 2013 7:16:09 GMT -5
I was under the impression that the 100cc they have for sale was a 4t qmb. I don't want 2t. How can I tell the diffrence in the staters?
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Apr 4, 2013 22:50:24 GMT -5
[replyingto=skuttadawg]skuttadawg[/replyingto]
and yes, they are on backorder for a couple weeks.
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Apr 4, 2013 22:45:27 GMT -5
I have a 4 stroke and the disk brake is on the other end what i will call the axle. Tthe shaft that connects the cvt to the wheel. but it runs through the wheel and on the other end is the gizmo that runs the spedo/tach, then the disk, then the bracket(s) that holds the exhaust on.
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Post by B. A. M. F. on Apr 4, 2013 21:49:42 GMT -5
So I blew a (or the, I dunno ) crank bearing on my df50tka and i hate working on the bottom end of any engine so im gonna just buy me a crate motor. Ive done alot of searching and my best option seems to be the 100cc long case from scrappys. Only thing is they say its for drum brakes and mine is disk in the rear. Ive herd people tell me to make sure to get the right one but that didnt make alot of sence to me because my disk brake is on the oppisite side of the wheel than the engine. I made the assumption its because if it had drum brakes they would be located in the case itself, and after watching some videos online that seems to hold up... Thing is on those vids and you see the case with the back tire off, it all looks pretty much the same except the brake shoes. I am going on memory here from when i replaced the back tire a few months back, but to me it looks the same but i remember a bunch of spacers in there instead. The serches ive tried mostly bring up drum to disk conversion kits which entail the disk brake (obviously) a new rear wheel (understandably, sence the shoes make contact with the actual wheel (from what I can tell) and i dont think my wheel has that space in it to fit around the shoes) spacers, and some people claim i need to do "case modification" (whatever that means) I am thinking that the factory of this scoot just took a regular drum brake motor, deleted the shoes, and added the parts to make it disk, like the conversion would. Sence i have those parts it should work for me. Am I wrong? Does anyone know if this engine will work for me? Or if not if not is there a way to make it work? Or should i look for something else? Any insight at all helps. You guys rock!
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