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Post by vfl118 on Apr 21, 2015 21:16:34 GMT -5
Success.. Rode it about 50 miles today. Stopping at various places for different amount of time (food, visiting a friend, checking schedule at work, small errands) and haven't had any problems! Fires up usually first, sometimes second lick. Smells a little rich but running great.
Thanks for all the help guys. If you're in SE TN give me a hollar for a ride!
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 20:17:33 GMT -5
To follow up, had a buddy come out and give me an extra set of hands while I messed around with it. Seeing how it was warm from trying, trying, and trying again. However I gave it for a pretty good while and seemed to be doing well. If it startsnup and runs well tomorrow I will know exactly what was wrong. Valves, idle, air/gas, gas lines(they were deteriorating), and the petcock had some crap in it.
Will keep y'all posted if the problem is fixed. Talk to y'all in the AM!
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 19:35:00 GMT -5
Yeah, down the carb, take off the intake and spray a couple of quick blasts down the intake of the carb. See if it sputters. If it does then it's a fuel or compression problem (you will know it has spark at least) Checking compression next Compression is good. Got it running and driving around the block after idle and air screw playing. But I had that before we will see tomorrow
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 18:18:38 GMT -5
Yeah, down the carb, take off the intake and spray a couple of quick blasts down the intake of the carb. See if it sputters. If it does then it's a fuel or compression problem (you will know it has spark at least) Checking compression next
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 17:20:47 GMT -5
ok... readjust the valves.... will it run if you spray carb cleaner in the carb throat while hitting the starter? Carb throat?
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 17:06:57 GMT -5
ok... now we need a bottle windex, soapy water, carb cleaer, wd-40 or what ever. Start the bike and listen to it. Spray around the where the carb meets the manifold and listen to it. Did the idle change? Do the same where the intake manifold meets the head. Spray it anywhere there is a vacuum line where it goes into a fitting. What the liquid does, is plug the hole momentarily. That will tell you were a vacuum leak is, if you have one. Check for cracks on the intake manifold... they are notorious for cracking. Use the same method. Can't get it to run ATM, may go from .005 to .004/.003 and see if it does anything different. The valves were way tight it seemed when I adjusted them. I will say I was coating a lot in carb cleaner earlier looking for vacuum leaks and no change in idle.
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 16:58:12 GMT -5
That means we have ruled out the petcock. From there we put the petcock back in line and then do the same to the filter. With those two things ruled out, we can move on. then we will start checking for vacuum leaks. Same result either way
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 14:58:57 GMT -5
yeah. And then plug the vacuum line that goes to the petcock. Will do this as soon as I can get a battery charger. So if it starts, idles, and accelerates I know what the problem is.. If its the same, what's next??
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 14:50:32 GMT -5
Plenty of spark with both plugs(I keep a spare) Gas tank is above the engine. So I should be able to get a gas/out petcock with a shutoff and no vacuum line from ace, yes? Meanwhile I killed my dang battery. just get a piece of fuel line, and run it from the tank nipple straight to the fuel filter. That will take the petcock out of the equation. Also make sure fuel is flowing thru the fuel filter in the correct direction. There should be an arrow on the filter that indicates the direction the fuel should flow. Mine goes tank>filter>petcock>carb. So make it go straight to carb from filter?
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 14:37:30 GMT -5
yes, you just need to ground it. Revisiting the vacuum petcock.. If the diaphragm is ruptured, cleaning it won't help. by pass it for now to rule it out but only if your tank is above the engine. If it is in the floor, then you can't bypass it because it's actually a vacuum driven fuel pump. Plenty of spark with both plugs(I keep a spare) Gas tank is above the engine. So I should be able to get a gas/out petcock with a shutoff and no vacuum line from ace, yes? Meanwhile I killed my dang battery.
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 14:26:33 GMT -5
Its a brand new coil and cdi. Would hope they aren't dead already. Petcock seems fully operational, cleaned it out today just in case and it did have a little gunk but free and clear now.. Best way to check spark on these bad boys? Best way to check spark? You ever check a 9 volt battery with your tongue? Same way.... Stick the plug to your tongue and crank her over.... You'll know if you got spark.... LOL Just Joking of course... Put the plug to the motor (find somewhere to ground the plug) and crank it over... It will produce spark when cranked if everything is ok..... Oh, and you can eliminate the petcock altogether... It will help with trouble shooting.... Just get a manual shut-off/petcock (they're around $2~5.00)... It's very easy to swap out... And eliminate the vacuum part all together? It would just be gas in/out and shutoff for when its not running? By putting the plug to the motor you mean remove the boot and sparkplug and hold it to the motor while still in the boot?
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 13:55:18 GMT -5
Its a brand new coil and cdi. Would hope they aren't dead already. Petcock seems fully operational, cleaned it out today just in case and it did have a little gunk but free and clear now..
Best way to check spark on these bad boys?
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 13:17:03 GMT -5
It's almost like it's got a vacuum leak somewhere but it's all new lines except for the pairs system and the the lunge that goes into the CVT. Getting a new intake manifold and gasket tomorrow. Figured it's cheap enough to replace. Only thing after that that I haven't bought new is pair system and the air box hose..
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 20, 2015 13:12:23 GMT -5
I'm going a different way. This to me doesn't sound like a fuel problem. When it dies and won't start back up, are you sure you are getting spark? I'm thinking bad CDI Module. AND you would smell gas if it wasn't firing. Brand new cdi. Cleaned carb, adjusted valves to .005 and still having same problem. This is driving me crazy. Started up for a while, idling fairly high, could give it bout 1/4 throttle and then it would bog down (before valve adjustment) post adjustment can't get it started for more than a second or two.
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Post by vfl118 on Apr 19, 2015 22:19:59 GMT -5
did the shop do anything besides clean the carb? i would do a valve adjustment first? No, I removed the carb and took it to them so I could save labor cost. I've read about valve adjustment. Also figured I'd change motor and gear oil (can't hurt). Don't know if there's a safety switch if they are too low/dirty.
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