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Post by wamgaming on Sept 17, 2017 18:45:20 GMT -5
Hello, I am having issues starting my moped in cold weather. The moped is a 49cc taotao with a 80cc big bore kit on it. The moped also has an upgraded exhaust, air filter, cdi, and coil. When it is warm outside, roughly 70 degrees or above, the moped starts no problem first time. However if its cold outside, the first start of the morning is rough and takes a lot of cranking and usually some throttle to get started. After its started, the idle isnt normal but I can tell the auto-choke is working as the revs slow down when warm. There are no dying problems after its starts. However when decelerating or coming to a stop I hear tiny pops out the exhaust. Sounds sort of like little tiny backfires, but not loud. It will continually pop all the way down a hill or until more throttle is given. It also seems to have a very low idle after coming down from being revved, similar to bogging.Sometimes sounding like it wants to die. However the idle speed is perfect, on the stand or after stopped for an extended period of time. I have recently put a brand new carb/choke to make sure this wasn't the problem anyways. The carb has an main jet size  and a pilot jet size 75. I tuned by letting it warm all the way up and screwing the fuel screw to get the maximum idle speed. I also adjusted the valves to 0.004in on the intake and exhaust. I am totally at a loss, and am sick of messing with this thing. I really need some help because I am at a total loss from where to go from here. I was thinking it could be a spark problem, but I don't know why it would only do it when its cold. Thanks |
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Post by wamgaming on Jul 10, 2015 13:11:21 GMT -5
I had this problem when I removed my starter, I had taken it apart and when I put back together I had put it together upside down, Basically caused the offset to be on the top instead of the bottom so when I hit the starter button the starter would only spin. Now if you did not take the starter apart this would not apply. I have not messed with the starter yet. I have heard sometimes it spins backwards. How difficult is it to rebuild the starter? |
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Post by wamgaming on Jul 9, 2015 20:42:45 GMT -5
I recently did a total rebuild on my jonway 250cc moped and got everything back together and when you push the starter ignition button. All I hear is the starter spinning. I put a brand new starter gear in it and I re-opened the side case to verify the gears lined up and that the starter motor only spins one way. I'm kind of stumped as to what it could be. Thanks any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 18, 2015 18:45:26 GMT -5
check for power at the 3 wires at the ignition switch. Where does the blue wire go? where does the greek/yellow go? Where does the solid green go? I think you might be switching ground. wamgaming John Ok so I figured out the problem. The person before me must ha e wired the starter solenoid wrong or it could be broken. Only two of the 4 prongs give 13v power. I flipped the plug so one of the two working 13v switches goes to the ignition and bam power to headlights horn turn signals. Now I got to figure out why the electric fuel pump is making a weird rattle when I plug in the starter solenoid plug. |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 18, 2015 16:19:02 GMT -5
Not sure how you have your system wired up, but if you mean the wire that goes from the ignition/starter button to the solenoid I think it should read about the same as the other positives. Unless maybe you have a solenoid that works a different way. Your system does look a little bit more complicated than a scooter. On scooter solenoids we have a wire that connects to the solenoid from the starter button that sends a signal to the solenoid to tell it to send electricity to the starter motor. Does the key switch always receive 13v though at the positive? |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 18, 2015 16:07:24 GMT -5
Just because you have continuity doesn't mean the wire is good. That is the thing about doing that test with scooters. That just proves there is a connection between the 2 ends. It does not prove it can carry large loads of electricity like for the starter. I think the problem has to do with the starter solenoid not giving power to the lead that goes to the positive on the key switch. I test it directly from the starter solenoid and do not get any reading. Shouldn't I be getting 13v. The other prongs give off 13v. |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 18, 2015 16:04:13 GMT -5
can you start it by jumping the solenoid? When I jump the solenoid the motor turns over but I do not have spark. |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 18, 2015 15:33:22 GMT -5
Ok my last forum got really long and i tried all the suggested things and found out more. Thought I would condense them into one list of everything I have tested and found out. Here is my problem - I get nothing when I turn the key. Some things I have tried and found out - - I have continuity through the positive on the battery to the positive side of the starter solenoid. ( that wire is good) - I have checked the fuse on the starter solenoid with a volt meter. That is good! - battery is reading 13.0v (so I know that's not the problem) - I can read continuity to the negative wire on the key switch to the negative side of the battery. So negative wire does not seem to be the issue. - I took off the wires connected to the break switch and connected them and when I do, I get continuity though the positive and negative wires on the key switch. (Not sure if that's right but I have tried having them not touch as well. Does change the readings that I get. - I have disconnected the kill switch wire directly from the cdi itself, so that can not be the problem! - I have a good ground and can verify that with a volt meter What I still don't get? - the starter solenoid has 3 different wires going to it or from it. All 3 make my light tester go off except the prong going to the positive wire in the key switch. I get a reading of 13v at all the connections except that one. Could that be my problem? Bad starter solenoid? Although I don't get a 13v reading at the accessory wire either? Help please Pictures - Key switch wires  Starter solenoid   |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 18, 2015 14:45:19 GMT -5
It kind of sounds like when you retested you said you were touching the battery positive and the wires, it reads 13.2 because you were not reading the wires, you were reading the battery and using the wires as ground. Go back a step, use the meter and touch the red wire on the meter to the wires, and touch the black wire on the meter to the frame, and then check again the same way but with the black wire on the meter to the negative of the battery. Your starter solenoid and relay look like they could use some new wires, I suspect you may either need new wires or may have a wire making contact with another or the frame where it shouldn't. Try to read for stray power leak by putting the black wire of the meter on the negative of the battery, and the positive on the frame in various places, but I would start with near the area where the switch goes and along the area where the wires run. Unless you have exposed all wires and checked them all individually this could be a way to test for it. I once had a leak basically where one of my positive wires going to my ignition was frayed after someone tried to steal my ride. It gave weak battery symptoms and then stopped responding altogether till I traced all the wires and found the issue, but before I traced the wires I did the above test and found there was power coming from the frame, and there shouldn't be any power coming from the frame. We were telling him to check his ground wires that way. His ground, green, wire is obviously good. I don't know about the other two wires. I would suggest he run a continuity meter across the terminals of the ignition so he can see how they function. That might help him hook them up correctly. Obviously, two of the terminals should not have continuity until the switch is turned on. The terminal for the lights and the engine electric should read continuous with the key on. If two of the terminals are continuous with the switch in the off position, then I'd assume those were the two hot wires. If there is an accessory only terminal, it should be continuous when the key is in the accessory position, and the other terminal should not be. Ok so this is weird. I hooked a jumper cable to my break switch and when I did that I get continuity between my positive and negative terminals. Why might this be? |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 18, 2015 14:05:23 GMT -5
I should be looking for 13.2 on the positive. On the negative that it has continuity to ground. And on the accessory 13.2 as well. You got it Ok sorry for the late response have had a busy week and am just able to start working on it again. I have ground on the green plug to the engine. But I do not have any power from the green and yellow. The green and yellow cable has continuity through it so that must mean the starter solenoid is not sending power to the switch correct? |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 13, 2015 12:32:05 GMT -5
Ok so thinking out loud here. If I try all the possibly combinations, and none work. How to I measure the voltage at the ignition. Sorry for the dumb question but do I put the positive on a lead and negative to ground? Positive and negative leads on the positive and negative wires at the switch? If it checks out at 13.2v at the switch, it must then be the starter solenoid? Correct? The starter and solenoid are devices powered by the battery on a separate circuit, they have nothing to do with the power to your lights and dash and controls when the engine isn't even on yet. The starter button just sends a signal to the switch in the solenoid to make it bridge the 2 big terminals on top to feed the power to the starter, it does not actually give it power, the power comes from the battery to the solenoid to the starter. Yes, you use the positive of the meter to "probe" wires to see which wires have voltage and how much they have. The negative of the meter is just ground so connect it to the frame or a grounding wire. I should be looking for 13.2 on the positive. On the negative that it has continuity to ground. And on the accessory 13.2 as well. |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 13, 2015 12:15:55 GMT -5
We were telling him to check his ground wires that way. His ground, green, wire is obviously good. I don't know about the other two wires. I would suggest he run a continuity meter across the terminals of the ignition so he can see how they function. That might help him hook them up correctly. Obviously, two of the terminals should not have continuity until the switch is turned on. The terminal for the lights and the engine electric should read continuous with the key on. If two of the terminals are continuous with the switch in the off position, then I'd assume those were the two hot wires. If there is an accessory only terminal, it should be continuous when the key is in the accessory position, and the other terminal should not be. 3 terminals, 3 wires... only 9 possibilities. Just try all 9 possible ways to hook up the wire, if ALL of them don't work then it's something else. If the power coming out of the wires is 5v and the battery is giving 13.2, you are obviously losing power somewhere between the battery and the ignition switch. Possible bad wire, frayed, burnt, or bad connection or bad ground. Ok so thinking out loud here. If I try all the possibly combinations, and none work. How to I measure the voltage at the ignition. Sorry for the dumb question but do I put the positive on a lead and negative to ground? Positive and negative leads on the positive and negative wires at the switch? If it checks out at 13.2v at the switch, it must then be the starter solenoid? Correct? |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 12, 2015 20:07:48 GMT -5
does this have reverse? show me the shifter where it connects. some buggies have a neutral safety switch. If it is in gear it will interrupt. John There is no switch on the gear shifter. Here is the ignition wires  This is the ignition switch with what is written on it  |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 12, 2015 19:37:27 GMT -5
what is this thing called? Do any of the wires on the cdi have the same color on the ignition switch?(the pink) Do you have power at the solenoid? I look pictures of the ignition switch, the cdi unit and the starter solenoid with its plug. I just retested, touching the positive side of the battery and both green(positive) and green and yellow leads at the ignition switch. Somehow they both read 13.2volts. Weird? How can that be? |
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Post by wamgaming on Apr 12, 2015 19:23:17 GMT -5
ok what you have is different from a scooter set up. one side of the starer relay/solenoid should be reading battery voltage. lets see the cdi, the plug and wires and colors. Photobucket.com then upload the pics there then you can do this;   Here are some of the pictures I took.  john    |
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