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Post by gift on Mar 9, 2015 18:09:31 GMT -5
I've been running a 100cc (83cc really) BBK for a year and a half with the stock crank. It is a myth that you need to upgrade the crank with a BBK, it's not necessary. Since you have a secret 63, I would definitely recommend a BBK rather than stock 49cc jug and piston. You can use all the other stock parts, including head and crank. When the head is on and the spark plug is installed, it should be harder to turn at some points (during compression), and then the valves open making it easy to turn again till the compression stroke starts again. Do you use bigger carb with the BBK? I wonder if I end up getting the BKK whatesle I should upgrade to match the BKK performance.
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Post by gift on Mar 9, 2015 12:08:45 GMT -5
I will see how much price different is and order the parts asap. Thanks a lot for all the inputs here. I am really appreciate all your helps. I am sure I will come back with more questions after the parts arrive. Hope everyone will still stay with me
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Post by gift on Mar 9, 2015 11:49:59 GMT -5
Thank you geh. I am deciding if I should just get the stock top end or upgrade to bbk. I just found out that I have the secret 63cc too. So I feel sad replacing it with 49cc top end. If you are worried about cost I still recommend a stock replacement. Once you get into the BBK arena you have to worry about upgrading the crankshaft and other parts due to the extra torque place upon the engine and drivetrain. Oh I didnt know about other parts upgrade. What about the 63cc top end, does it need the other upgrade parts too?
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Post by gift on Mar 9, 2015 11:03:36 GMT -5
Thank you geh. I am deciding if I should just get the stock top end or upgrade to bbk.
I just found out that I have the secret 63cc too. So I feel sad replacing it with 49cc top end.
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Post by gift on Mar 9, 2015 10:40:52 GMT -5
No the spark plug was in there when I turned the fan. When you spin the engine with the fan , does it get harder to turn at times. Or did it stay that easy ? I am not sure about this. I think it stays easy to turn. I did not want to turn it many times and now that I have the top end out I am not sure I should try turning it.
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Post by gift on Mar 9, 2015 9:48:16 GMT -5
Not sure if anyone mentioned this but , since you removed the piston from the cylinder you should just replace the top end . the rings were seated , but now they will not seat right , or u can have the cylinder honed and get new rings . Also , was the plug out when you were turning the engine with the fan ? It seemed a little too easy to turn , and it also sounded a little rough . No the spark plug was in there when I turned the fan.
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Post by gift on Mar 8, 2015 23:45:42 GMT -5
I agree, it's been running a bit rich, but that is not a huge issue. It's better to be too rich than too lean on these engines. I would agree you should start by removing the tangle of emissions related hosing. Here's a thread that will help you identify what emissions parts you have. Let us know which you have, and we can tell you how to remove and plug them. itistheride.boards.net/thread/4902/emissions-scootWhat concerns me is the coloring down around the lower rings of the piston. When it's put together, take the spark plug out and put your finger over the hole, then press the starter. It should blow your finger off the hole. If it doesn't, or just gives a "phhht" without really pushing your finger off, then we may have a compression issue. Thanks JerryScript for the thread. I am just looking up on that. Is it possible to have more than one? I am sure I have the PAIR ( Pulsed Air Injection Reburn ) but I am not sure whether there are others or not. I will check on the compression after I put it back together.
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Post by gift on Mar 8, 2015 23:37:55 GMT -5
Okay. The first thing noticeable is that the engine was running VERY rich. That is why your spark plug and piston are black as night. Once the scooter is up and running the carb will need to be tuned. To do that access is needed to both the fuel mixture screw and main jet. You may be able to get away with just the fuel mixture screw, but both are preferable. That can be done by unrestricting it or purchasing a replacement online. Carb tuning guides are available in the tech library. Next will be servicing the motor. Replace all fluids for the engine. Not sure if it is 2 or 4 stroke, but you need to be sure you have good lubricantion. Next would be the decision of if your going to reuse the position and cylinder wall or replace it. If you go with a stock 49cc replacement set, the cost is not bad. A replacement piston and cylinder wall would be preferable since there was that huge scuff mark on the top of the piston. Once the engine is put back together next would be checking the valve lash. Intake and ex take valves for a 49cc should be .003 inches. After the engine would be dumping all old fuel and starting fresh. With the tank empty check all fuel line connections and replace the fuel filter. They are very cheap. Next remove all those emission controls on the scooter. They may also be partly to blame for the poor condition of the engine. Instead of allowing the engine and gas tank vent to the atmosphere, they recirculate dirty fumes back into the cylinder to "burn". That burning is very inefficient and ruins the air/fuel ratio. Removing those allows only clean air and fuel to be burned. Those steps should get you back to a fairly decent working order. Thank you so much. I will follow all the steps you gave here. Now I really wonder what the previous owner has done to the scoot. From what I have read, these TaoTao scoots are normally set lean from the factory. Thanks again...hopefully, I will get to ride it soon.
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Post by gift on Mar 8, 2015 22:30:50 GMT -5
If I want to replace the engine, it would cost me about $250-$300. Otherwise he would give me $175 for the moped because the frame is still good. What kind of budget do you have for this project? Do you want to just get it running with a few problems, or a reliable working order? I would like to have it in reliable working order but I do not have $300 to spend on it right now. I already spent $400 on it if there is a way to minimize my cost I would like to go that way.
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Post by gift on Mar 8, 2015 21:57:21 GMT -5
Hmmm. Well, it looks to be running rich, to say the least. I wonder what the main jet in the carb is? How many miles on the engine? Since you have the piston off the rod, I'd check for play in it--- a bit (1 or so mm) of left/right sideplay is ok and pretty normal, but up/down play where the rod bearing is (you cant see it) is not good. I'd at least rule that out before putting back together. Did the people you bought it off of mention any symptoms at all, other than it just "not running right"? I am trying to unseal the carb to see the jets inside. I will let you know as soon as I can get in it. It has 1757 km on odometer which is about 1000 miles. The previous owner did not tell me anything other than not running right. I will call them and ask for more detail tomorrow. Hopefully they could tell me more about it.
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Post by gift on Mar 8, 2015 15:06:13 GMT -5
I also just take a quick look at the carb. It is stock seal carb and now I am thinking if it is worth unsealing it myself or i should just get Keihin carb for $30 (found one on ebay). To unseal the stock one, I will need to get screw extractor and some more replacement screws and lock washers which might end up be close to $30.
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Post by gift on Mar 8, 2015 14:22:03 GMT -5
So I took it apart further today and found that the spark plug and piston are black. The piston top has fine black fluffy stuff on it. Please see the following pictures of spark plug and piston I just took. I am also uploading videos of the overall and the spark plug+piston to youtube postimg.org/image/5ow9tfz6l/postimg.org/image/f24pwrmd1/I tried to insert pictures here but it is not successful. I am not sure what is the problem so I put the URLs here please follow the URL to see images.. Thank you so much again guys.
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Post by gift on Mar 6, 2015 0:50:37 GMT -5
Onewheeldrive, thanks for the suggestion. I will call the shop and get more info on that i wonder what you mean by hand exactly? do you mean with a ratchet? or literally with your fingers? i can rotate my engine with a ratchet but i don't think i could with my fingers. if you mean with your fingers then i would suspect the engine is missing many internal parts. start taking it apart and post pictures. many members here can help you get it running. literally with my fingers. So I guess I am taking the engine apart tomorrow. Thanks all for helps... I will need more help after this for sure.
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Post by gift on Mar 6, 2015 0:46:41 GMT -5
If you are up for it , an willing to do a little work , I would get the valves adjusted correctly , replace the spark plug , make sure the battery is good and charged ,get the carb cleaned and see if the scoot will turn over . if it turns over but do sent start , you will want to check to make sure you have spark . if not it could be as simple as replacing some electrical components . most of the work on these scoots are bolt on , or plug 'n go . some you will have to use certain tools for , like to check valve clearance , and you will want to make sure the engine is in time " which is all pretty easy to learn " . there are many videos u can watch that will take through each process step by step . I am totally up for it but I first need to get tools ready I think. I got an email from Harbor freight that they will have sale starting tomorrow so I will go there and get some tools ( I think I will need a electric impact wrench first thing. I tried to unbolt a nut last week with a manual socket wrench, it did not move a mm.) Could you recommend some other special tools I would need? I have some basic tools which now get me to the inside of the scoot. I have removed all the plastic frame last week actually I took the carb out and planning to adjust the valve and clean it this weekend. Actually Mechanic at the shop unbolt many things when they first tried to figure what is wrong with it so I need to reconnect everything back first in order to try to crank it up. I actually plan to just open up the top end of the engine to inspect inside but could not get the engine out yet because of that bolt.
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Post by gift on Mar 5, 2015 20:14:10 GMT -5
Thank you so much Geh and Bashan. I am going to work on it this weekend and will take some videos to post here.
Thanks again for all your suggestions.
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