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Post by lain on May 30, 2015 13:28:54 GMT -5
I had no problem compressing the rings with my fingers while I slid the piston in the cylinder, just compress each individual ring and carefully work it in. Although the clamp method is a very good one . I also had no problem compressing the rings in to the cylinder with my fingers. Sometimes things just work out for us. I actually compressed the rings while I had my friend slide the cylinder down over the piston. Worked out great after we figured out how to have 4 arms in there.
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Post by lain on May 30, 2015 13:22:36 GMT -5
The steelmate alarm works great, but it drains too much power in a ride that is only used once a week. Not to mention it is a DC operated scooter so the battery level is invaluable. Too low and the ride won't start, even with a kick.
So the alarm seems to be plugged into a connector in the main harness. When disconnected the scooter will not start. What wires need to be crossed to fix this?
I'm guessing the pink and grey wires that go to the alarm control the ignition cutoff? So maybe those?
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Post by lain on May 29, 2015 21:32:39 GMT -5
I got a kit for $55 last year, it's still running great. You obviously did something wrong dude, just keep at it, try again get a new kit.
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Post by lain on May 29, 2015 15:13:15 GMT -5
I am in the process of fixing the exhuast stud that broke off in the head. I have been riding without any exhuast. 3 mile trips at the most. It runs ok just very loud. My starter is starting to deteriorate. Its hard to start now and i have to get it just right. I also noticed the kickstart wont work. It used to with the exhuast on. Am i doing damage to my scoot by not having an exhuast on it? What are your thoughts? *** i am quite aware of the social and legal complications that arise when your scoot is very loud in public. Dont need any help with that What kind of scooter and where are you in Florida? I have my stock exhaust from my 150 just sitting in the yard, its not in great shape but it's all in one piece, its yours if you want to come get it I don't need it but i hate just throwing stuff out I'm in north broward county If he doesn't want it I'd take it off your hands, I can send the money for shipping too, just PM me. Do you think it would fit a 50cc gy6 that's been BBK'd to "100cc?"
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Post by lain on May 29, 2015 13:07:03 GMT -5
I was lucky to find space for the 10 inch rim, we have a standup 2 door side-by-side fridge/freezer and the freezer is only 10 inches wide. I had to wedge it in ontop of some ice cream lol
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Post by lain on May 29, 2015 8:22:00 GMT -5
Sounds like an obvious idea I overlooked from exhaustion. This is why I post lol. Any ideas to protect the rim from metal tools? I protected the rim by getting the tire off by rotating the axel so it would slowly but surely get it off. Does not work to get it on. These 120/70 tires are a lot more firm than my 3.5 tires. I stuck my whole 13 inch rim in my freezer for 30 mins and left the tire bake in the hot sun. I also used a little grease around the bead, and that was the easiest I ever got the tires on ! I also just had screw drivers and a sledge hammer. Once you get one side on , try to keep it " the side that's on " up high in the rim " while the rim is lying on the ground. I put something under the tire so it could not fall down in the rim . I forget what I use. This will give u more tire room to stretch over the rim. If you put something under the tire , just hold up one side , opposite of where u are trying to push the tire over the rim . after you start getting the second side over the rim , use a sledge hammer to slowly pound the tire on. Hit the tire close to the bead, right next to the rim . just don't hit the rim , lol. Amazing! I froze the rim for an hour, heated up the tire with hot water, there was still vasoline on the beads from yesterday so I pretty much just popped the tire right on after positioning it right. I oly needed to flip the bead over the rim in a couple spots, otherwise I was using my body weight to push it down with my knees on the tire and a bottle of water under the tire to keep it in position.
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Post by lain on May 28, 2015 23:27:01 GMT -5
only other thing I could think of is use long flat tip screwdrivers, they may not be as wide as the axle and work like the tire irons a little better. Sounds like an obvious idea I overlooked from exhaustion. This is why I post lol. Any ideas to protect the rim from metal tools? I protected the rim by getting the tire off by rotating the axel so it would slowly but surely get it off. Does not work to get it on. These 120/70 tires are a lot more firm than my 3.5 tires.
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Post by lain on May 28, 2015 23:20:48 GMT -5
put a little dish soap in the water to help your "tire irons" to slide a little better. I tried dish soap and vasoline. : ( I may have also just been exhausted from getting the other tire off, but it was me and my friend.
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Post by lain on May 28, 2015 22:47:25 GMT -5
I've been using mine daily now pretty much. I always disconnect it after each nut/bolt/direction change. I always prepare the tool with socket and direction before connecting to the power. It has become my favorite tool!
The only time I ever find myself using my air driven impact wrench now is when the nut/bolt was previously tightened with an air driven tool, or a high powered tool at least. I've had a friend come over because he couldn't get his rim and tire off, I'm actually holding onto his scoot right now because I'm having issues getting his new tire on the rim. The nut on the rear tire was tightened so much with an air driven tool it took charging my tank up to 90psi and using the full power of my 425 lb air wrench and about 10 taps. He said he brought it to a shop last time and they charged him way too much so he's trying do it himself, with my help. My guess is they went crazy tightening it down like they thought it was a car for a second or something haha.
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Post by lain on May 28, 2015 22:37:44 GMT -5
I'm having huge difficulty getting a 120/70-10 tire on the rim. I spent 3 hours and scraped up my hands bad getting it off because I was trying not to dent the aluminum rim. I do not have tire irons, I have been heating up the tires with hot water and using axel rods in place of tire irons with good success on regular 3.5-10 tires, but it does not work half as well on the 120/70-10. I need to get this scooter back to my friend tomorrow, not looking to spend money on spoons/irons. What else works well?
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Post by lain on May 27, 2015 8:42:02 GMT -5
On the threads it's a spark plug anti-seize, but i stop to use now, somebody said is not very good to use this... This is the plug with the original air box! I'm going to buy main jet #102 and #105 and try again the uni filter later... I have been using a very tiny bit of graphite lube on the base of spark plugs for over a year now with great success. Does not burn up or leave residue, can be simply wiped off the threads, and prevents threads from locking up on the spark plug so it is easy to remove with hand tools anytime you need to, but does not move or cause the spark plug to come out. Try it out, it's also very cheap and one can will likely last longer than your scoot.
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Post by lain on May 27, 2015 8:27:42 GMT -5
Depends on length, girth near the tree of the shocks in front. If the back is a simple 1 shock setup you can probably buy a gas shock on ebay for the back, just measure the current shock fully retracted and out of the scooter. I've seen them range from 11 to 13 inches on that kind of body style. I personally like 13 inch rear shocks even on a shorter setup so I can feel more off the ground on my short tiny agility scooter.
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Post by lain on May 27, 2015 8:14:03 GMT -5
i've seen some interesting DIY vids on YT with limited tools. saw one using 2 car batteries. idk how difficult it would be to weld without proper equipment but those vids are fun to watch. I figure in both cases the protective gloves and clothes cost more than the supplies to make thier welders lol
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Post by lain on May 27, 2015 8:12:52 GMT -5
hold on a sec... did you attempt to weld and it turned out like that? lol No welding has been done. I want to do welding.
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Post by lain on May 26, 2015 10:38:49 GMT -5
It's a modified exhaust tube, a muffler from a 2004 2 stroke, and a sawed off exhaust tube ontop of the muffler. None of it is attached to each other or hooked up, just have it all hanging by 1 bolt and 1 bungee cable to see what it would look like.
What I want to do is cut the muffler and put the sawed off exhaust tube on it so it would fit for my gy6 motors.
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