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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 12:16:12 GMT -5
its not at tdc in any of the pics. a gap that is too large will not open a valve. It will not damage the valve. If the valve does not open no compression or combustion. The woodruff key is what holds the flywheel in place on the crankshaft, the flywheel has timing marks. John I just took pics, it was not at TDC when I took them. I checked the woodruff key and was fine. |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 12:14:02 GMT -5
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 10:31:02 GMT -5
checked it is is fine...
I adjusted to .04 NOT .004 (BIG DIFFERENCE)
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 10:26:41 GMT -5
No. Nothing looks off. Your exhaust valve would have been barely opening at .05". I'm not sure what kind of damage that could have done, but those gasses had to go somewhere. You could have unseated the rings. You could have blown the valve seals. It's hard to say. Both rocker arms should have play at TDC, if the lash is set right. Like I said, I would just replace the top end. It would not hurt anything to just replace the head first, and if that doesn't fix it, replace the cylinder and piston. You can't replace the piston without honing, or replacing the cylinder.
Yeah, I just bought a new top end kit and a cylinder head with valves, everything complete. A very expensive lesson learned.
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 9:19:05 GMT -5
here are 3 images of this area. Nothing here looks off... One comment however is at TDC the intake rocker arm has a little play but the exhaust has none. don't remember if it ever did, but all the vids I've watched shows a little play on both rocker arms. sorry about the images being upside down... when I uploaded them they got fliped    |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 6:11:14 GMT -5
pistonguy I set it to .045, not .0045. as for the woodruff key, I have no idea where that is or how to check it. The cam chain tensioner seems fine. I honestly think I screwed something up internally preventing proper combustion. the scoot has less than 5K miles on it.
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 5:40:01 GMT -5
dyoung1167 Thanks for the info! So what damage have I done? I have checked everything others have suggested and all is to par. Getting good spark, fuel, etc. I am about to pull the cylinder head next and check the valves and piston. I'm reluctant to do so as I never have, but my only option at this point. I'm thinking of buying a new cylinder head with valves and a new piston. I'm just wondering if I can simply refurbish what is already there if not damaged. This is unknown territory for me, but I've successfully changed pretty mush everything else on this scooter thanks to watching a lot of youtube vids. BTW, I have a 161QMK engine, if this would help with any diagnosis.
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Post by dickyh on Sept 22, 2015 6:54:56 GMT -5
lain .04 is a large gap. which i was thinking was .004 thus was about a 1/4 of an inch. Everything was fine until i opened the gaps. at first the scoot started right up drove with some popping but on the way home last night(after about 7 miles) it kept trying to stall and when i turned it off at home would not start. I have been readjusting when engine is cold and if i lay on the throttle when starting it will start but not stay running. when i do have it running the engine sounds louder than normal and sputters when i turn up the throttle. the scooter was running ok until now and i only adjusted the valves because it was getting a little harder than usual to start. and when I opened the gap it did start right up at first, but now I am afraid I may have done some damage to it. BTW, I have fuel injection, if it makes any difference
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Post by dickyh on Sept 21, 2015 21:42:58 GMT -5
I initially set them at .045 (a REALLY big gap)
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Post by dickyh on Sept 21, 2015 21:20:24 GMT -5
JoeyBee Thanks! I just set them to 4 and 5 , but no luck... will barely start and won't idle. I hope i didnt screw anything up by setting them so loose yesterday. I did notice that the exhaust sounded MUCH loader than normal. Could I have screwed something up? I've been adjusting the valves every 3K miles for about a year and it has never been this temperamental.
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Post by dickyh on Sept 21, 2015 21:01:15 GMT -5
I actually have a 169cc engine. does this make any difference on settings?
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Post by dickyh on Sept 21, 2015 20:59:47 GMT -5
thanks! took me awhile... went and got another feeler gauge cause the other was too confusing. going to set these in the morning.
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Post by dickyh on Sept 21, 2015 19:36:40 GMT -5
Thanks! i watched the video 5 times and still don't get it. I guess I'm a bit stressed over this right now and not thinking clearly. I'm sure you are talking about the clearance settings and I think I'm doing right. I have a feller gauge that is reading inches and mm. i.e. .020 " is .508mm. could you give me a little nudge here please. what am I missing?
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Post by dickyh on Sept 21, 2015 18:21:54 GMT -5
Ok I've adjusted valve lash many times and no problems. yesterday I adjusted the exhaust a little bigger than usual about .1143mm .045". Put it back together and on my way to and from work it was popping on acceleration and then on the way home, it starting idling roughly. got it home let it cool down and took off the valve cover and went to adjust the clearance and the exhaust has 0 clearance. and now the scoot wont start.
what did I do and how do I fix it? Ive had this for about a year and have always done everything myself, maintenance wise and never had any problems.
It is as if the exhaust valve is stuck? Did I just really screw something up?
My scooter is my main transportation and I need this back on the road. any help would be GREATLY appreciated!
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Post by dickyh on Mar 23, 2015 18:53:35 GMT -5
I have a rectifier issue and need some help. I have a lithium battery on the scooter and it went dead. I was told that I had a rectifier issue and bought a new one which I thought was the right one. It charges the battery and the output is where it is supposed to be. My problem is now that the headlight doesn't work. I am enclosing some pics as I when it comes to electrical, my skills are minimal I have a 6 pin OEM (the bad one) rectifier  with the following wire configuration And the new one with this wiring  Both are six pin with 2 separate connectors(2 vertical prongs and one horz) with one connector with 3 yellow wires, which is what runs the headlight and the other for charging the battery and whatever else. I hooked up the new one and there is a considerable difference in the voltage output but the headlight doesn't work. I assumed that the 3 white wires on the new one where the same as the three yellow which handle the head light on the old one, but sigh, it doesn't work. Any help would be greatly appreciated. totally stuck. I searched high and low to find the right 6 pin configuration (2 connectors with 3 wires each) and thought I bought the right one. Doesn't seem to be the case. The only photo I could find with the exact wiring setup was listed as a 11pole 6 pin but I hardly think my scoot came oem as 11 pole and I haven't taken it apart at this point to verify. And it is only available on ebay and I have issues with using paypal (hate them) so this is not a purchase option for me. Thanks in advance for your help Hi dickyh. Partsforscooters.com carries the stock Regulator/Rectifier for your scooter. They sell it for $24.99. Here's a link: On some scooters, the R/R activates the headlight. If your headlight no longer comes on after switching the R/R, i'd say you need a different R/R. But take note, switching the R/R to a new one may not solve your problem with the battery losing it's ability to hold a charge. Some batteries, such as Lithium and glass mat, even some AGM are designed in a way that charging them too fast will actually damage the battery. For example, selecting 10 amp instead 2 amp ona trickle charger could damage it. Well, it could be the case that your R/R's charging circuit pushes too much current into the battery too fast. You may want to just go back to a stock battery and put your old R/R back on. Get a 7~9ah battery (around $30.~40.00) ------------------------------------- What are your voltage readings (before and after the R/R swap if you recall)... And TVnacman is likely correct. That looks like a three phase stator. However, yellow, white and pink are various A/C colors and it could be you have two yellow A/C inputs from the stator and one A/C out to your lighting and auto enricher circuit. More than likely it's three phase input. BTW, 11 pole are not the only three phase,. Your scooter may have a 12 pole stator. Anyhow, like John suggested, try and get a pic of your stator plug (It's located coming out of your fan shroud) and also tell us what your voltage readings have been. Thanks but my regulator is 2 plugs with 3 connectors each and the one you show is one plug with 6 prongs. I could only find the one pictured and bought. I guess I could get the one you showed and try to wire it to the two plugs? Electrical is so NOT my forte. The different color wires are totally throwing me off. And to make matters more complicated, one plug is male and the other female. I also have electronic fuel injection which complicates things as well and so for now I chose to charge vs headlight until I find the solution. With the old r/r I was also blowing headlight bulbs and now my readings are about 12.7 to 13.5 running. I put my lead battery in with the old rectifier and it was dead in a day not to mention it blew yet another bulb. Can't fathom how difficult it is to find the r/r i need. |
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