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Post by dickyh on Sept 24, 2015 19:36:56 GMT -5
The one on my sons scooter was fairly easy to take off, just take off the two bolts. I would use some lock tight for sure. Seems the factory used some kind of lock tight, it was white and pasty on the threads anyway. Just make sure you do not over tighten those bolts. They are fairly small so it would not take to much to strip them. thanks! was able to get them loose with a little effort. did you replace your cam and if so where, which one ? for future reference if I ever need to get one... |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 24, 2015 18:56:24 GMT -5
Heres a pic of the bottom cam chain guide which slid out, the top is in place and didn't want to pull it out for fear of not getting it back in.  Chain side  other side |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 24, 2015 18:31:56 GMT -5
lain, pistonguy, cyborgOK, here's an update... as luck would have it, I received my anticipated pkg from scrappy and wouldn't you know it they sent me (2) heads and no piston and casing! Called and they sent out the new pgk overnight, so I'll have it tomorrow. So I've posted some pics of the new head for all to see and give feedback. Until I get the other parts, The only question I have so far on installing this is there anything I should know other than the obvious making sure at TDC? Thanks again to all and look forward to all of your feedback to get her up and zipping along again.  Top Side  Valve side  Intake  Exhaust
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Post by dickyh on Sept 24, 2015 14:45:53 GMT -5
again, thanks all, I'll be opening the parts up tonight and will take pics and ask lots of questions!
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Post by dickyh on Sept 24, 2015 14:42:44 GMT -5
Scrappy has parts,but according to him he sells cams that will work with 80 mm stud spacing models and traditional 76 mm spacing. On left of scrappydogscooters.com look to gy6-200 gy6B dedicated page and check out all the parts. Good luck.... I love my 161QMK. Hope yours is running soon! Yes, that is where we got the head and the gaskets. Gaskets where on back order at the time took 2 months to get the gaskets. He wanted to be able to ride without waiting so I tried the copper gasket trick. It is a old school way to save gaskets. We had nothing to loose so I decided to give it a try. Still running fine.
The problem with the cam is that the gear has to be removable to get to the C clip that holds the cam into the rocker assembly. There is also a anti kick back tab on the opposite side of the gear. I looked high and low for a cam, but could not find one. In my sons case the cam was damaged some.
so does this sprocket come off fairly easy, havent tried yet but like everything chinese I'm thinking it will be a real pain to get off. and I guess I'll be using lock tight putting it back on, correct? |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 24, 2015 14:02:25 GMT -5
Scrappy has parts,but according to him he sells cams that will work with 80 mm stud spacing models and traditional 76 mm spacing. On left of scrappydogscooters.com look to gy6-200 gy6B dedicated page and check out all the parts. Good luck.... I love my 161QMK. Hope yours is running soon! this is where I bought the head and top end but he doesnt show any camshafts like mine, which as I said is one piece and there ins nothing wrong with the one I have. |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 24, 2015 11:29:24 GMT -5
Don't kill yourself trying to figure out why it happened. Things just like to pop up after you solve them. That's why it says "One problem after another" under my avatar image, because I have been there so many times haha. Sometimes, well often in my experience, when one thing goes wrong everything wants to go wrong. Murphy's law. Thanks for the encouragement. Since I have no way to get the scoot to a mechanic, I've done everything myself from day one and have been proud of myself for figuring most things out, of course with some help from the fine folks on the boards. |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 24, 2015 11:25:42 GMT -5
I just replace a head on my sons 161qmk. That is a totally different head design than a standard GY6. Not to mention a real pain to find parts for. GY6 cams will not work with this design. The two bolts on the gear holds the gear to the cam. To install remove those bolts. First I would put the engine at TDC before putting the head on. That way you do not have to fiddle with the chain so much. Then you can bolt the cam housing to the top of the head, made sure your cam lobes are facing down towards the top of the head. You should at this time notice that the bolt holes in the cam should be nearly lined up with the top of the head. Now you can slide the gear into the chain and line up one of the lines on the gear with the top of the head. You might have to mess with the links a bit, but one of those lines should be parallel with the top of the head with the motor in TDC. Not sure what the WY stands for and I am not sure if it matters. The only thing I can think of is that it is a visual to see if you are in exhaust stroke or compression stroke. I installed my sons with the WY showing once installed. When we worked on my sons we found parts hard to locate or on back order. Finally had to reuse the old head gasket to get him back on the road. We used copper spray gasket to get him rolling again. Still running fine. itistheride.boards.net/thread/7662/oil-leakingThanks So Much! was stressing out over this... this helps a lot! |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 24, 2015 5:47:09 GMT -5
Thanks all for your input. I'll be putting new top end on this weekend and see if this solves the problem, although now, I guess from some posts from more experienced people I didn't have to. Live and learn I guess...
What baffles me is that until I set the valve lash wrong, the scoot was working perfectly. Only after I did this, did the problem begin so I could only come to the conclusion I damaged something inside. All the electrical is near new (3 mos. ago) CDI, Spark Plug etc. Put a new stator on about a month ago due to charging issues, but nothing else had changed.
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 19:10:40 GMT -5
It's a 169cc 161qmk
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 18:49:59 GMT -5
tvnacman Thanks! I was sure that this was not normal but have never looked inside one of these engines before. So i guess I wasted money buying new. However, I think that the exhaust valve had actually gotten stuck open as when I pulled the head the collar pretty much came off in my hand and the rocker arm for the exhaust at no free play at TDC at all as the intake had a little. Anyway, I hope replacing everything will fix my problem. Any ideas on my valve cam issue?
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 18:35:43 GMT -5
Spark was the first thing i checked... good strong spark
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 16:36:08 GMT -5
I'm creating a new thread for this relating to my other one - Help! Valve Issues I've decided to go with a new top unit as I'm pretty sure I burnt the Piston and Valves by wrong lash settings. Anyway, I've been watching videos about how to remove and install the piston housing and cylinder head as I ordered new of both. My dilemma is that everything I see has the valve cam assembly as 2 pieces while mine appears to be one piece and am unsure how i get the chain back over it while keeping it a TDC. Everything I've watched shows "dipping the Camshaft" and mounting the chain, but with one piece I don't think I'll be able to get the chain over it. Am I missing something here? Is it really two pieces that appear to be one? or something else? Another question is that the chain sprocket has alignment lines for TDC but there are two of them and WY on one side. Is this what faces forward, as each way places the cams in different positions. Pics show what I have. Thanks in advance for any help or info you can offer.   |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 13:26:56 GMT -5
So just to check, you have checked the new gaps both before and after tightening them right? It's not excessive anymore right? It's still not starting? What about with the kick starter? Never could get it to start with the new gaps. - no kick start as I have fuel injection |
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Post by dickyh on Sept 23, 2015 12:26:28 GMT -5
Yep, setting it at .045 is far too big of a gap. You likely damaged the cylinder. Just spend the $80, or so, and replace the cylinder and head. A lot of people in this thread missed that you initially set your gap WAY too big, at .05", instead of .005". I don't know exactly what was damaged, but you just need to replace the top end. New cylinder, and cylinder head, and you will be good to go. No need to try to find exactly what is messed up, and take a month to figure it out. Just replace it. Somebody teel me How from Experience one Damages a Cylinder by too big a Valve lash. Peeps sayin you've hurt something but can't tell ya What. Internt Bunk!! not going to hurt a darn thing in a gy-6 The Only thing that Will Happen with a Intake set at .045 is the Valve Never Lifted Enough to let a Charge in and it Wont Start. Period! a few got him going down the Wrong road now. ============================================================= Here's is the funny thing about what you said... right after i did this it never started better! It was only after riding it for about 10 miles that the problems began. Thankfully about a mile from home it started sputtering and wanted to die. Once I got it home and turned it off is when it wouldn't start. and this my post began. |
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