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Post by yellowjacket on Oct 3, 2015 16:47:41 GMT -5
Thanks everyone. Looks like its solved. I completely torn down the head again and found the two head screew on the right side of the cylinder were loose. After I tightened everything down it started much easier. Thanks again
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Post by yellowjacket on Oct 3, 2015 11:50:34 GMT -5
Compression gets up to 100 psi with about 7 kicks
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Post by yellowjacket on Oct 3, 2015 10:58:49 GMT -5
I'm going to check the compression this morning I'll let you know the results Thanks!
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Post by yellowjacket on Oct 3, 2015 10:57:42 GMT -5
Yes performance coil and blue CD I have been installed, but they were always there. This problem really started after I replaced the cylinder head and installed a new stator and flywheel. I'm sure its top dead center and the valves have been adjusted multiple times. After it started it runs great in purrs at idle. Its just getting it started in the first place which is difficult. Thanks for the help any other ideas?
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Post by yellowjacket on Oct 2, 2015 15:59:25 GMT -5
It just keeps chugging, but I would def
initely lean to hard to turn over over turning over fast
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Post by yellowjacket on Oct 2, 2015 6:43:14 GMT -5
i piston,
Not sure what a cylinder say is but I only replaced the head that also included valves. I reused the cam and rocker arms. I've also adjusted the valves a few times. I've used .003 on intake and .004 on exhaust. .004 intake .005 exhaust and .005 intake .006 exhaust all with the same hard start symptom. It started fine with the old head on. So low compression... Wonder what could have caused that? Bad valve? Head not torqued down enough on the gasket?
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Post by yellowjacket on Oct 2, 2015 5:49:51 GMT -5
I recently replaced my stator and my flywheel. I also replaced my top end,do to striped spark plug port. When it is running it runs fine, but it is very hard to start. It takes between 15-20 hard kicks to get it going. Before the work it started easily. I upgraded the engine to a 83cc 2 years ago and it has about 5k miles on it. So what do you think? Where should I start? I only have Sat. to work on it and I'm hoping to get it running because even though I'm only 35, I have a failing hip that just kills me to kick this thing. Do you think I have a leak at the intake? Vacuum houses look good. Could I have too much compression? I only used 1 head gasket on the last head and that was fine, but I did change it to a new one with this install. Oh and lastly, the electric starter does sometimes work, but only when you crank it so long that it nearly killed the battery.
Advice is greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Adam
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Post by yellowjacket on Sept 23, 2015 6:33:24 GMT -5
Hey Steve, that makes perfect sense!! Everything was running fine until I buttoned everything up and put the fan back on along with everything else. Then it went to s***. Thank you so much I could have easily went through another three Stators before I figured that out. Considering they're the original screws and I didn't even think of them as being the culprit. But I did change the fly wheel and I'm sure that one must be about a millimeter thinner than the original. Again thanks so much! Adam
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Post by yellowjacket on Sept 22, 2015 22:29:19 GMT -5
Hi Steve,
Yes the woodruff key is there
Adam
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Post by yellowjacket on Sept 22, 2015 21:56:25 GMT -5
Oh forget to mention that there is nothing stuck in the flywheel.
Thanks adam
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Post by yellowjacket on Sept 22, 2015 21:55:07 GMT -5
Hi Steve, well I know what the problem is now but I don't know what's causing it. Perhaps you guys have an idea. I bought the correct 8-pole stator 3 wire and it came in yesterday. I plugged it in and installed and everything seemed to work well. The engine started and I was able to rev it up no problem. I did that a few times and buttoned everything up and just when I was about to go for a ride, it wouldn't start again. I took it back apart and saw that for the second time, the stator coils were torn up slightly from the flywheel. Why does this keep happening? Could my crankshaft be warped? Am I putting the flywheel on too tight? This keeps happening and I'm afraid to buy and loose another stator.So far I've gone through 4, between the ones torn up and buying the wrong ones. Any help or suggestions is appreciated. Thanks Adam
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Post by yellowjacket on Sept 19, 2015 13:00:03 GMT -5
No didn't burn. I got a new 3 wire 8 pole stator due to arrive on Wednesday. I'll let you know how I make out John. Thanks again for the help
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Post by yellowjacket on Sept 17, 2015 19:49:07 GMT -5
Well went out again today in found one of the stator coils torn up. I had a 6 pole stator on hand and swapped it. The bike started up but the head light wouldn't come on. It was very dim. When I attempted to start the bike a second time it wouldn't turn over. Pulled the spark plug no spark again. I'm thinking somehow I've just got the wrong stator, but I'd still expect it to spark. Who knows I started this thread with one small problem and now I have many
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Post by yellowjacket on Sept 17, 2015 17:01:28 GMT -5
Thank guys. It appears my problems have gotten worse before the get better. The scooter was failing to start completely and I pulled spark plug which appeared to be fouled. Once removed I noticed it had some of the cylinder head attached to its threads. Rather than trying to helicoil the existing head I just bought a new one and replaced. Got through with all that work last night and tried to turn the bike over. I didn't have any luck and now I'm getting absolutely no spark. I plan to go home and try to continue to diagnose tonight. But one question I do have that most likely is not related to the starting issue.. the new stator I purchased has the two standard wires for sending voltage to the ignition coil but the 3 connector plug that charges the battery and power the headlight only has two wires whereas my previous one had 3. The missing ground? Is this a problem? Thanks guys I really appreciate all your help.
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Post by yellowjacket on Sept 15, 2015 6:53:09 GMT -5
When the bikes not running I get a steady 12. 4 or so volts. It's only when I start the engine and test the voltage at the battery do I get the fluctuations. If I measure the terminals themselves with no battery on it I get fluctuations as well but they never reach higher than 7 volts.
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