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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 5, 2013 16:53:27 GMT -5
is it possible to upgrade? They do have an 18pole on scrappydawgs web site for the cf250. Can the stator be changed out or would the bike need to be rewired at that point. I would of thought the charging system on the 250's would of been a bit more robust. I guess I know what to do with the hole in the kneeboard where the stereo "head unit" is currently installed. I'll get a gauge pod and install an amp gauge....
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 5, 2013 9:23:18 GMT -5
For anyone wondering.... what a roller paint job looks like..... yup, it was done with Rusoluem and high density rollers and a lot of elbow grease....
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 4, 2013 1:10:53 GMT -5
That's really cool how it creates that "pattern" after being dipped. it's almost creepy the way it lays down on the mannequin arm...
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 3, 2013 23:03:17 GMT -5
I am thinking a blue metal-flake (rustoluem), with white and yellow, real flame (air brushed). Let me know how the clear goes. I love rustoluem. I actually have a k-5 blazer I did a roller paint job on using rustoluem... If done right, you can actually get a smooth finish with a roller... We won't talk about wet sanding between coats on that beast! I got to where I could do the whole truck in about 4hours. On my bike, I'm not looking for perfection, just nice. I've started painting the black plastics (floor boards and center hump, along with dash.... I might re-do it tho, I used gloss and I think it would look better flat or satin. I'm doing a few red-neck carbon fiber pieces (got a roll of 3m "carbon fiber" vinyl coming, already have "carbon fiber" mirrors and just did my cramp buster for kicks and giggles with some scraps I had laying around. Woo Hoo! I haven't heard of the good old "short-knap-roller" paint job in DECADES! Been there, done that, got the T-shirt! For all the members out there cringing at the thought, trust the old chopper guy; it DOES work! In the fifties, we did several cars that way and the finished product looked as good as the finest sprayed-enamel paint. Wet-sanded and rubbed out between coats, it can rival a professional lacquer job!Also, if you want a sweet, subtle metalflake look that rivals the Chinese factory flake, here's a simple trick I used with GREAT success on a vintage Schwinn fat-tire bike restoration. I used black Rustoleum enamel for the main color (you could use blue, red or whatever you like) and applied super-fine "glitter" available at Wally World in their craft section. (This "glitter" comes in a coarse "kid's toy" grade, AND a super-fine "dust" which is BEAUTIFUL). I mixed several colors together on a creased piece of paper, and gently blew it evenly onto the black enamel while it was still tacky. For any areas requiring more glitter "fill-in" I pinched some between my thumb and finger and sprinkled it from a few feet up, letting it "flutter" down onto the paint. IT'S EASY! A couple of coats of gloss-clear over it and it was perfect! The fine glitter is SO fine that only a few coats of clear smooth the finish with no "gritty" roughness in the clear. That super-fine metalflake is so subtle, you barely notice it until in bright sunlight... Then, it sparkles like diamonds! You must use the super-fine stuff though, not the coarse, or it will take a load of clear to smooth out, and it might look like a cheap greeting card. The super-fine glitter comes in tiny vials on a blister-pack card and it's nearly as fine as talcum-powder. The technique allows you to use ANY kind of base color you like. You're not limited to factory-mixed flake colors.Worth a try! It worked for me!Leo (still washing glitter outta my jeans) in Texas Leo, what a bunch of cool idea's... I like the metal flake one.... gonna have to try that on something.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 3, 2013 22:47:36 GMT -5
I was thinking fish tanks . as for the cvt covers you could buy 3 and do exchange, 50cc then 2 150cc one long and one short . John The only issue I see with that is while they will all interchange, they are not the same... for example, mine has lettering milled out and it's kind of a neat piece because of it. Then you have the guys that have cut them out to show off the their clutch, etc.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 3, 2013 22:31:52 GMT -5
Take a clue from the best TV show ever, Breaking Bad, and go get a couple of those big plastic storage bins to use as a tub. It's funny you should mention that show... I was actually thinking for production going with plastic laundry tubs... Like what you have on in a laundry room. And how it would start to resemble what they did in the RV.... Any one know where I can get an '80s era motor home?
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 3, 2013 1:45:05 GMT -5
I want to see Ender's game, I've read all the books.... so it will be interesting to see how they line up.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 3, 2013 1:25:37 GMT -5
More video..... You can actually see my old vintage meter in the back...
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 3, 2013 0:46:34 GMT -5
sounds like the carb needs to be cleaned.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 2, 2013 23:46:52 GMT -5
Ok, tonight, I tested all the legs and reved it.... Voltage is good... about 40v when Idling, and it goes up to 100 or so when rev'ed. All three legs are the same.... I'm thinking a bad RR even tho it's new. I'll jump the blocking diode tomorrow night and see what it does... I'm thinking that part is ok, cuase we did a continity check on it and it was blocking one way.... and made continuity the other way. It would be nice if it was just a bad RR
The laundry list continues..... it has a bad valve stem as well... guess I'll be busting down rims sometime next weekend. Gonna replace front and back valve stems, and paint the exhaust system. Along with a starter solenoid and brake switches....
I did a stator test video tonight, but I'm not happy with it... I need to get one of my friends over to hold the camera.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 2, 2013 23:38:04 GMT -5
The cool part is it's not vinyl... it's actually paint I'll let you know when I'm ready.... Not for a few weeks yet.... My bike is all torn down right now... (well, my big bike).... so I'm devoting alot of energy into it at the moment. Not to mention I have to try the process a few times to make sure I have it down. I'm probably gonna order the kit later this week. Then I have to get a tank of some sort. I have an idea that would work well for production, but for testing, I've got to find a tub that will work suitably... My wife would kill me if I used the kitchen sink... LOL Motorcycle/scooter parts in the kitchen is not the way to a happy marriage.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 2, 2013 21:10:11 GMT -5
That one might be hard to find....
Is the CVT cover finish smooth or textured? You could do a thread insert into the case if that bolt is too sloppy... it will probably get worse over time. or locktite the snot out of it.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 2, 2013 20:56:33 GMT -5
I have some really great friends like that as well... I don't have many close friends but, the one's I have would do anything, I mean anything for me and I'd do anything for them.
We all go to coffee, every friday night.... I haven't missed one in like 3 years. We all ride scoots, we all have 4x4's and we will probably all get motorcycles together.... I'm closer to those peeps then I am with my own brother.
When I blew the engine in my 4x4, my buddy Ray grabbed his tow truck, picked it up, took it to his yard, and found an engine for me, before we even got it off the hook. Then we did the swap at his tow yard..(using his tow truck to pull it and put it back in)... Kevin, while not too mechanically inclined, played gofer... getting lunch, parts, tools and anything else you could think of.... These guys are the most awesome group of friends anyone could ask for. Friends like that are priceless... Treat them right, and ask God to bless them.
Kevin has taken me in when I didn't have a place to stay after my divorce... If either one of those two guys has a problem with a scooter, they buy the parts and I put them in.
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 2, 2013 20:48:13 GMT -5
Ok, that settles it... I'm dipping my exhaust heat shield on the 150.... (I have an extra) to see how it puts up with the heat. To do the high temp stuff from what I've read, you use a high temp top coat (didn't know such a thing existed)... One of the samples I've seen is an exhaust tip. Biggest concern on the CVT cover or, any of the parts, is how clean they are...
CVT cover is gonna take about half a yard of film to do, film is about 35 bucks a yard... so, the target would be around 65-80 to do one, there's gonna be a couple of hours of prep time involved... (you provide a clean CVT cover)... the heat shields would be alot cheaper... I'd probably throw in the heat shield for free, if you wanted a CVT done. Turn around times would be the tricky part... You might be better off buying a new CVT cover while I'm doing it, as then you wouldn't have to have the bike torn down while it was being done... If this works out well, I might buy a couple of common covers and do them then offer them for sale. Its gonna be expensive tho compared to a stock one.
I'm not gonna do this until I've got the process down on my stuff. Last thing I want is anyone to have problems with some work I've done for them.
The other issue, if you have carbon fiber on your bike already, it's probably not gonna match. I think this process will make the vinyl stuff look absolutely cheesy but we will see..... I have a dash I've done with the decal stuff... so I'll be able to compare. One of the reason's I am researching this method is I'm not happy with the look of the dash I did. I have a few flaws because it is a pretty complex shape.
On a side note, you're not just limited to carbon fiber... they have flames, skulls, along with many different camo patterns. (don't make me "hello kitty" yo stuff)
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Post by urbanmadness on Dec 2, 2013 20:21:22 GMT -5
Well what I've done, is I've tested all the legs of the stator with the engine idling. I'm getting juice but it ran out of fuel before I could bring the RPM's up and test voltage. I'm not charging at the battery. The blocking diode has been checked with a meter. Continuity one way, none the other....
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