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Post by ital on Jun 25, 2015 8:50:13 GMT -5
Question, how important is the bolt that covers the spring retraction mechanism after installation? I never put it back on, could that have been causing the oil leak? I am trying to put the bolt it on now, but it wont go all the way down and I do not want to force it too much. Perhaps I should cut it and make it shorter? Thank you Presume you are talking about the chain tensioner. Yep. If you look at the bolt it actually has a rubber seal under the head. The reason is oil will literally flood out if the bolt isn't sealing the hole. If you can't find the bolt (or it's damaged), a new chain tensioner is only about $10 and is a snap to install (once the cyl. head cover is off). Suggest you just go ahead and replace the tensioner. I did buy a new chain tensioner but it did not come with the center bolt :/, time to go to home depot :-) |
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Post by ital on Jun 24, 2015 8:23:43 GMT -5
Question, how important is the bolt that covers the spring retraction mechanism after installation? I never put it back on, could that have been causing the oil leak? I am trying to put the bolt it on now, but it wont go all the way down and I do not want to force it too much. Perhaps I should cut it and make it shorter?
Thank you
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Post by ital on Jun 22, 2015 23:25:29 GMT -5
Hi guys I got the scooter back running changed the starter o ring and re routed the head cover nipple and it is not leaking from those places after all. I cleaned the area and after a short run you can see the oil finding it way out of the black covering around the cylinder so I'll have to take that off next. Since I was not able to use a gasket for the chain tensioner I really hope it's coming from there  Here is the latest video.  |
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Post by ital on Jun 21, 2015 8:52:00 GMT -5
Hi All, before I go that route, I am looking at other possibilities for the oil leak. Since someone mentioned starter O ring, I went ahead and replaced it since most of the oil accumulation was right there. Here is a video before I removed it and replaced the O Ring. I have the PCV coming Tuesday and my carburetor 5mm spacer, I'll go for short ride then and report back. Hopefully that will do it...  |
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Post by ital on Jun 19, 2015 15:03:14 GMT -5
Thank you all for the help. I will double check where the oil is coming from and make a decision on the next steps and update you all.
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Post by ital on Jun 19, 2015 10:37:24 GMT -5
pistonguy, got it, so if that were to be the case, how do I fix it? you spoke about deglazing, how is that done?
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Post by ital on Jun 19, 2015 9:31:04 GMT -5
pistonguy , the problem is i do not understand the questions, or I would answer. I will look into the compression test. How much psi are we talking about here? See if I can help here since things are a bit mixed up. 1. LAIN, not Ital, commented that in HIS BBK he did some deglazing, etc. This has nothing to do with Ital's situation. He (Ital) bought a BBK, did nothing to it, installed it. No honing. Correct me, Ital, if that is wrong. 2. Ital, you never answered the question if this is a new oil buildup of something that developed over a long period of time. 3. When you run the engine can you see oil spurting out the vent? 4. A PCV will not fix this. At all. 5. Are you SURE the oil is coming from the valve cover vent? All that can be seen from the 1 photo you posted is oil on the plastic fender RIGHT BEHIND THE STARTER MOTOR. Sure it's not from the o-ring that is supposed to seal where the starter motor goes into the crankcase? 6. Very first check is almost always compression. Free loaners available. Bring a spark plug to make sure the thing has an adapter small enough to screw into the undersized spark plugs used on GY6 engines. Make sure you hold the throttle wide open as you crank the engine a half dozen times or so. Then tell us what psi you are getting. People are trying to help but you have given precious little info to go on, other than the fact you see oil. More info will help people help you. you are right on. thanks for trying to clear thing up, and I will try to answer your questions. I apprciate your help. pistonguy your replies are so confusing to me not sure you are talking to me or this Lain. Please stop bringing Lain into this thread  Thank you answers: 1) Yes you are correct, I did not do any honing, direct bolt on. 2) I always had a small oil leak, and always found a bit of oil in the airbox but it was never this bad. However after I nstalled the new BBK and completely removed the rest of the EGR system for the first 5miles i did not see any oil, then I did an oil change put new syntetic oil and it blew out of control. 20 miles latter I siwtched to Dyno regula 10w 40 oil and went for a 70Miles round trip and there was a mess. Probably lost 100ML on that trip and the airbox was floated with oil. I do think it is coming from the valve cover Nipple because I found some oil spraying from the nipple it self and even reaching the platform where I put my feat trough the vents and found some oil on the cover it self. Here is what I think it is happening, The valve cover nibble has a hose that goes to the airbox which then went to the EGR, all this is happenign withing a small box with thin the airbox which is seealed and I cannot open so not sure whats in there. Since I removed the EGR system I sealed the hole that went to the EGR system so I think it is makign this situation much worse then it is, perhaps like putting your finger on a water hose? So I am hoping the PCV will fix the situation. 3) I'll try to start the engine and rev it a bit and see if oil comes out of the nipple if that is what you are asking? 5) I'll double check. Just ordered some parts so cant put her back together until they come in and will update you. |
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 23:03:03 GMT -5
pistonguy , the problem is i do not understand the questions, or I would answer. I will look into the compression test. How much psi are we talking about here?
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 18:15:21 GMT -5
geh3333 yes. That is exactly how I check the oil level. Right now I only the tip gets wet when I check the oil lvl unscrewed. Before the egr might have been handling the pressure now I plug that whole and it could be making this mess. I'll try the PVC. I do not know what pistonguy is asking. He asked me some questions not lain*
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 14:10:24 GMT -5
replacing the rings resolved the issue for you? No I did not have to replace rings. The 970cc BB Sport Bike was mounted to a Dynomometer that incorporated a Brake. With the Brake I could Crank down on Engine Load from WOT and make Her Cry. The Pipe went from Slight Black/Sooty to White, WOOOla, Sealed it up. Next to impossible if not impossible to Duplicate that Engine Load on the Street. Just can't do it. A Dynomometer similar to this is used on Automotive Race engines to carefully break a engine in with a specific procedure so once the engine is ready for the race car she is ready to race. Ill go into some more details once the above few questions are answered. not sure if I understand the questions, but I did not have to bore out the case. the kit I installed was direct bolt on (61mm NCY Kit). I can create load fairly easy i would think on this 170cc  , however I am not seeing any smoke. |
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 10:23:13 GMT -5
Something just came to mind from one of your earlier posts. You initially used Synthetic oil on the Brand new BBK. I noted this and you were going to change to Dino Oil for the rest of the top end break in. Ive had issues in the past with going to Syth, to quickly and found it nearly impossible to seat the new rings to the new bore. Had to use a Dyno with a break to really crank down on engine load that could not be duplicated on the street to seat the new rings. I sure hope this is not your problem of excessive blow by caused by initial start up and run with Synth Oil. replacing the rings resolved the issue for you? |
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 8:47:54 GMT -5
i wish alleyoop could chime in. have you guys seen him on at all lately? i hope all is well. |
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 8:07:11 GMT -5
rcq92130 , why did you buy the PCV were you having a similar issue? pistonguy, I was using castrol 5w 50 syntetic, just switched to Castor 10w 40 regular oil
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 6:40:08 GMT -5
I use about 750ml of oil. I did not do a compression test don't have the tool.  Performance is very good |
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Post by ital on Jun 18, 2015 0:05:59 GMT -5
Hello All, it seems i have a lot of oil coming out of the valve cover nipple and i am finding a lot of oil being sprayed all over the place from the airbox area where the hose connected to the nipple goes into the airbox. I have found puddles of oil in the airbox as well and found some oil near the nipple on the valve cover. can you please help me resolve this issue? I was thinking about buying the Positive Crankcase Ventilator from scrappy dogs but have no clue how it works or to install. image of my issue, please note the airbox was disconnected when I toke the picture.  Positive Crankcase Ventilator Have, or are you removing your airbox?Is your scoot blowing oil? Have you run dry and don't know why? The reason may be that excessive pressure is being built up in your crankcase, which blows seals and/or pumps all your oil out the vent. This nifty device actually creates a vacuum within your engine by only allowing air out, and not back in. Made in the USA all steel construcion easily attaches to your vent line, which should be place above your engine as far as possible, and installed on the barbed nipple end. Threaded end is left open, or attached to a filter if you wish. This is a must if your running your scoot full throttle alot. New improved model. Cheapest performance fix anywhere at only $9.  thank you |
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