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Post by spandi on Feb 17, 2017 13:10:12 GMT -5
I had "issues" with my electricals as well. I found the way around them was replacing the Chinese made connectors with ones made by Deutsch. (No more problems and they're built like a bank vault too.) any reason for that particular brand? i never did find the exact cause of my problems, but it was somewhere in the wiring. i bet a lot of it was my ignition switch. i couldn't redesign the tail light/turn signal section, so i just added extras. the dash gauges were set in molded styrofoam, and that was screwed to the handlebars. of course the little pegs that went to the handlebars broke, and that made the entire unit flop around. the gauges were all electronic LED and finally gave up. now, add to that a overheating problem that you could only go about 3 miles in 80F weather before it overheated. i kept at it though. actually it turned into a pretty decent ride, it didn't look all that good though. only after i been through the fire that i discover the PDI. i doubt if it would have made much difference, you would only be delaying the inevitable. don't get me wrong, my chinese 50cc was an angel, i sold it for the same price i gave for it. my chinese 250cc was a strong running engine, seldom did i go anywhere unless i was WOT. In reply to your question; the contacts in the Chinese made plugs are stamped sheet metal and over time bend loose, causing "flickering" or no electrical flow what-so-ever. The Deutsch connectors on the other hand consist of a solid pin and a corrosponding metal tube, no amount of vibration will shake it loose. In addition it has a wire locking mechanism that keeps the wiring solidly in place and silicone rubber gaskets that keep water out and contacts dry. Oh yeah.... Like I said they lock up like a bank vault. (I also read that both NASCAR and Harley Davidson use them, but they ain't cheap to buy.) |
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Post by spandi on Feb 16, 2017 22:55:19 GMT -5
I had "issues" with my electricals as well. I found the way around them was replacing the Chinese made connectors with ones made by Deutsch. (No more problems and they're built like a bank vault too.)
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Post by spandi on Feb 16, 2017 22:45:00 GMT -5
You might want to run a voltage check on the battery to see if it's getting the proper charge, other than that check if the starter is OK. I had the same problem, turned out it was a grounding issue.
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Post by spandi on Feb 16, 2017 4:50:49 GMT -5
If your an occasional rider or just like to tinker rolling the dice on a Chinese bike can work out but for reliable 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year transportation they many times will cost more than a used or even new bike thats made of more sturdy materials. it's really hard for me to classify all chines rides as "less quality". my 50cc never gave me a bit of problems, and i rode it almost every day. although i do have to admit, it left me stranded once, but that isn't really unusual. my 250 on the other hand was a beast to be reckoned with. i was beginning to wonder who would win, me or it. i finally got it tamed enough that i was fairly certain it could go cross country. then it just gave up. i debated expending any more time/effort in it, and there it sits. i'll have to agree with you. if you aren't mechanically inclined, then shop elsewhere. if you are, then chinese can be a viable alternative Don't I know it DTF. Since I'm "mechanically inclined" I've rebuilt my scooter from the ground up. I know from where Rocky speaks, Chinese machines are slowly getting better, due to changing market patterns, (India) they have been forced to upgrade quality control. Hopefully they'll follow the well trod path of the Japanese, and improve quality and reliability to complete in a global market. |
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Post by spandi on Feb 14, 2017 17:45:21 GMT -5
Geez! Sorry to hear about your crash. Hope you recover quickly (and maybe slow down on the gravel) Can you still eat solid food or just liquids through the proverbial straw? Just take it easy and get better.
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Post by spandi on Feb 14, 2017 13:49:10 GMT -5
If your an occasional rider or just like to tinker rolling the dice on a Chinese bike can work out but for reliable 12,000 to 15,000 miles per year transportation they many times will cost more than a used or even new bike thats made of more sturdy materials. Yes watch out for bikes with shims or you can end up with a bit of sticker shock the first time you have a valve adjustment done. My boss put in free charging stations for electric cars this past September so I don't ride as much now since I no longer have to pay for fuel to drive to work after picking up for very low cost a used Nissan Plug In Electric Car that's almost as big as a CRV. No gasoline, oil changes or mufflers to deal with. Braking is mostly from the regenerative system so the friction brakes last a very long time making scheduled maintenance an annual tire rotation and change of wiper blades along with a new cabin air filter. Battery is air cooled and made in Tennessee so it is not as dangerous as the Tesla battery and they are reused, once no longer fit for automotive use, as UPS batteries for Microwave Towers and to supplement the power grid reducing the use of backup generators. Very soon the gasoline engine (and it's overly complex systems) will be a thing of the past, relegated to the same place as steam engines and their enthusiasts are today. |
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Why We Crash
by: spandi - Feb 12, 2017 0:00:44 GMT -5
via mobile
Post by spandi on Feb 12, 2017 0:00:44 GMT -5
The kid was riding a Zig 50, it's got a semi auto 4 speed chain drive and is sold under the brand name of Dafra in Brazil. (But who'd have thought that this little updated version of the Cub could move so fast?)
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Post by spandi on Feb 11, 2017 21:14:56 GMT -5
Good idea. Mine was marked on the side but not on the very edge of flywheel, I filed a thin notch in it then painted it in bright red. Problem solved. i was thinking about the crank on the variator side. this would make it uber easy to get TDC. i haven't had any timing problems with my cf250, although i did set the valves a couple of times. it was a healthy engine that ran strong up until the day it choked, as far as the timing chain goes, you would still need to remove the valve cover to determine if you are at firing TDC. you would need to remove the cover anyway to get to the cam. Wait a second, I thought you said the scooter was in the back yard......Do you have more than one? |
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Post by spandi on Feb 11, 2017 15:20:27 GMT -5
Why can't you remove the timing check plug and use the timing marks? Its the easiest and most accurate way to go to pull the access plug on the flywheel cover and align the marks. have you tried this method? the timing hole is on the right side of the engine, but you must be on the left side to turn the crank. it was impossible for me. i got so fed up with it, i had to just "guess" when TDC was reached. i removed the plug, held my thumb over the hole, and turned the crank until i felt compression. i then gave the crank an extra 1/4 to 1/3 turn more. like i said, it's a guess, but apparently close enough to set the valves. if you ever do find the true TDC, then notch the end of the crank with a file. if setting the valves is your goal, then the following is even better: remove the valve cover. rotate crank until the rocker arms are on the low part of the cam (both rocker arms). replace valve cover. set valves. you don't need TDC, just make sure both valves are closed. Good idea. Mine was marked on the side but not on the very edge of flywheel, I filed a thin notch in it then painted it in bright red. Problem solved. |
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Post by spandi on Feb 10, 2017 11:37:42 GMT -5
Yes, that sounds good. Last time I had engine apart I marked flywheel with permanent marker (but I guess it wasn't very permanent!) I have a new flywheel on order, so I may try using it as a guide for timing mark. Thanks for all the help! I think you'll find you're better off in the long run just replacing the thing and starting from a clean slate. Good luck, hope you're up and running soon! |
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Post by spandi on Feb 9, 2017 11:45:05 GMT -5
If I were in your situation, I'd just get a new flywheel. Why keep something around that will be a continuous problem when it can be fixed for around 50 bucks?
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Post by spandi on Feb 7, 2017 11:31:26 GMT -5
I was stopping by to say thanks to rockynv. I just heard back from my new friends at Parts for Scooters who rockynv had pointed me to earlier. They have it in stock and I just ordered several. It is here: www.partsforscooters.com/122-83-VOG-260-Small-Pipe-JointI was so glad to find it. Now, how to put in on? I hope it isn't a tight pressed on at the factory like spandi mentioned. The head is already back on and I would hate to pull it off again or damage anything banging it in. Any advice on this? If they sell it commercially more than likely you can install it. I'd use a hammer or punch in brass so as not to damage anything. (Good call on Rocky's part.) |
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Post by spandi on Feb 5, 2017 11:26:15 GMT -5
Sandi. I checked with Sunright this week and they don't have the brass nipple. Dang, I thought I had it...Rats! ( I think that brass fitting is pushed in under pressure at the factory and isn't supposed to be removed.) I'm thinking maybe you could have a piece of tubing cut to size and shape, then brazed on? |
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Post by spandi on Feb 4, 2017 18:46:28 GMT -5
You might want to give the folks at Sunright a call. (Official Linhai parts distributor) 1-877-515-
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Post by spandi on Feb 4, 2017 18:40:09 GMT -5
You might just want to give the folks at Sunright a call. (Official distributor of Linhai parts) 1-877-515-7948 (www.sunright.net) Hope this helps.
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