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Post by rockynv on Oct 24, 2016 23:33:06 GMT -5
Now that's interesting to me. Ya got my attention ! And yes I do burn regular at least half the time Rock. Not now. And I never heard about that Yamaha valve rule you mentioned A low compression engine can use low grade fuel however the Yamaha is a mid to high compression design if memory serves correctly and in the absence of a fuel injection system with knock sensors you should always use mid grade to premium to minimize the stress on the valves. Even the slightest amount of early detonation even if it does not ping excessively has the potential to heat up the valves more than normal leading to excessive wear so that they can require more frequent adjustment. |
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Post by rockynv on Sept 1, 2016 7:48:39 GMT -5
Can't really follow the disjointed oration very well but it appears that we have a rider habitually getting on the wrong side of things here. Get over the Striking Back, Fighting the Law, I Won and such attitudes and just stop doing things to get your license suspended. The root cause here is not the law or the officer its the rider who chose to get his license suspended and took advantage of confusion at the DMV over the new regulations regarding registering his 50cc bike. The SR50 is not a moped or bike that really should fall into the unlicensed class by any measure since it is a 50 mph capable bike which classifies it as requiring a motorcycle license in most States unless the dealer put a speed restricter on its direct injection system and the rider had not removed it. If the judge was aware of the special situation regarding a SR50 he likely would have had the same attitude as Speedway Scooters who are familiar with what an SR50 is capable of. If he didn't derestrict the scoot then he was obeying the law pertaining to him being arrested for DWS, as long as it was under 35mph. Legally, he shouldn't be punished again because of the "root cause" He shouldn't be punished for that-- bottom line. I don't really think this is a "screw the police" situation, it's a situation that anyone should fight, IMO. I may need to read this thread again, but I don't recall him being pulled over for going over the 35mph law. Yeah he screwed up somehow originally to get a susp license, but a DWS will screw his situation up even more for no wrongdoing. Of, course if it's derestricted then I'd agree with you. Still though, even if it was derestricted and he stayed under the 35mph max, without proof he still shouldn't be charged-- not saying I agree with someone doing that and getting away with it, but that's how it works. I'm not sure how you can say he "took advantage of the BMV" when he stated he went twice to register it with no luck. Sure there may be other things he could've done to try and resolve that issue. I understand that the law is the law, but they don't have to drop the hammer down on everyone if they don't feel the need. Yeah he shouldn't have rode the scoot knowing that it needed registered, after the fact of the bmv failing to do so-- IMO they should drop that, too, if he can prove he tried twice to register it. The traffic court prob needs money though, lol, so that probably won't happen but it could. Most SR50 I have seen will have to be restricted to make them 35 mph bikes. They usually are 50 mph DiTech (Direct Injection) bikes requiring a motorcycle license that a dealer would have to restrict to make them lesser bikes. Sometimes we get too catty for our own good self justifying a way around the law and then get all bent out of shape when we get caught up in the tangled web we ourselves wove up. It sometimes depends on what was being asked for however difficulty in getting registered does not give one the right to ride unregistered on a public street. Pedal bicycle, walking, skating or bus pass is what the law abiding citizen chooses when they can't drive or ride a motorized vehicle themselves. |
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Post by rockynv on Aug 31, 2016 22:55:20 GMT -5
You should not be adjusting that often unless your running lean and hot or using regular gas. I thought the Yamaha design required Mid grade to Premium to inhibit valve wear.
On my Lance I cut valve wear to about 1/3 when I switched from Reg to Premium. I was riding about 12,000 miles a year then and was adjusting valves monthly at first until I switched to Premium.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 31, 2016 22:46:15 GMT -5
Can't really follow the disjointed oration very well but it appears that we have a rider habitually getting on the wrong side of things here. Get over the Striking Back, Fighting the Law, I Won and such attitudes and just stop doing things to get your license suspended. The root cause here is not the law or the officer its the rider who chose to get his license suspended and took advantage of confusion at the DMV over the new regulations regarding registering his 50cc bike.
The SR50 is not a moped or bike that really should fall into the unlicensed class by any measure since it is a 50 mph capable bike which classifies it as requiring a motorcycle license in most States unless the dealer put a speed restricter on its direct injection system and the rider had not removed it. If the judge was aware of the special situation regarding a SR50 he likely would have had the same attitude as Speedway Scooters who are familiar with what an SR50 is capable of.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 30, 2016 8:06:36 GMT -5
Vespa with the pull out seat bucket makes me jealous at times due to how easy it makes servicing them. One owner I spoke with lamented how hard it was to access things and was shocked when I just pulled out the seat bucket with one hand and exposed the top of the engine for easy servicing. All bikes should be that easy.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 29, 2016 7:29:54 GMT -5
Something to watch out for is which vacuum port you have the fuel pump connected to. Some people switch them around and accidentally hook them to one on the carb instead of the unrestricted port on the intake manifold between the carb and the head. Sometimes the port gets partially clogged with hose debris which won't allow even the best fuel pump available to work properly and keep up at higher speeds. If its connected to a vacuum port between the slide an the air filter then it would be amazing that the bike would run at all however some have been run like that too albeit not running well or very fast.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 29, 2016 7:18:26 GMT -5
I will admit that had I known about the Morphous when I was shopping, I probably wouldn't own Peej. That 29" (or whatever lowness it is) seat is ideal for a shortish woman. And I do really like that sharky style (as evidenced by my love of the DN-01). But I didn't, and I do, and I'm not trading out now. Besides that I really do like Peej's 16" wheels. And his orangey-red color. And the shorter wheelbase. >'Kat They have a 25.8 inch inch seat height however once you sit on them they drop to less than 2 feet. I only know a few riders who went for the super low bikes like that and both gave up riding because they kept having close calls getting rear ended by folks who did not notice them on the low riders until the last moment especially at stop lights. I would have to put a sissy bar and high mounted tail lights on a Morphus before I'd feel somewhat comfortable riding one in traffic. |
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Post by rockynv on Aug 28, 2016 22:45:42 GMT -5
That to me has always been a bike designed to not be that noticeable going down the road but evoke a reaction once finally noticed. I like riding 6 to 7 inches higher up where SUV drivers are more likely to see me before its too late.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 24, 2016 22:26:56 GMT -5
Check that you did not flip the kill switch from the running position. Not really jumping in but reviving a Zombie thread from almost 1 & 1/3 years ago as the last post in this thread was in October of 2015.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 24, 2016 4:22:32 GMT -5
The MyRoad had to go or get a complete redesign. The seating position put the rider too close to the front faring so that your knees even if you were of medium height would bump there and get hooked by the handlebars. Looked great till you sat on it and got ready for a test ride. They could not give them away around here and despite price cuts and promotions they just lingered on the lots.
Get ready for Lance and Syms Labor Day event. They are offering dealers incentives to move bikes with special bulk pricing.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 21, 2016 8:09:29 GMT -5
You really need to adjust both valves with the engine cold for 24 hours before going too crazy on this. A vacuum fuel pump relies upon the pulse of the intake in order to work effectively and if the valves are not adjusted correctly the pulse will not be sufficient at high speed to keep up so your float bowl can start running low causing your engine to run lean and hot. When that happens you increase your chances of burning a valve or a hole in the piston top.
There is also a chance if the bike had been sitting unused for a lengthy period of time that the ethanol evaporated to the level of the high speed jet and clogged it with floating scum. If the needle valve seat has swelled from the ethanol then your float level can now be so low that the high speed jet may no longer be fully submerged in fuel and sucking air instead also limiting top speed.
Before adjusting the carb both valves need to be adjusted precisely followed by carburetor cleaning/float adjustment along with the very often overlooked throttle cable adjustment. Many skip checking the throttle cable adjustment check however as they wear in they become slack and no longer pull the throttle fully open limiting top speed. Adjusting the throttle at the grip is a standard maintenance check for any motorcycle that should be done at least annually however it is overlooked by many and it can reduce top speed by 5/10/15 or more mph if there is slack in it.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 20, 2016 15:30:39 GMT -5
I got much better results from the Hoca. Cutaway and removing the filter can result in wear from dirt getting into the unit. Also if you clean the variator with brake cleaner you can end up removing all the oil that was initially soaked into the Boston Bronze bushing in the sliding sheave which will also accelerate wear.
Some put a drive face on with smaller cooling fins and use a Kevlar belt which makes it so the variator gets hotter and has less cooling surface on the drive face. The more abrasive Kevlar also wears away the drive faces faster generating more grit to wear out the bushing prematurely.
Another thing to watch out for is the needle bearings that the clutch idles upon. If you do not grease them every time you pull the belt then they can wear out and vibrate damaging the bearings inside the gear box and collaterally cause accelerated variator wear.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 20, 2016 6:37:32 GMT -5
When slowing down is where the shaking more often shows when its due to low pressure front tire wear especially if the pattern is made up of staggered left and right Chevrons. It can actually set up a harmonic that can catch one unaware of this possibility off guard and jerk the bars right out of your hands. Not a good time to grab a handful of brake.
The old school highway ribbed front tires to me had a certain advantage in preventing this as this seems to be more common with the new computer designed tread patterns unless you go with the semi-slicks. Sometimes when this happens the cure is to simply lay off the brake and give the bike a little throttle to get above the harmonic speed that is causing the wobble and then slow down again.
Its best to vet out tire choices and understand what tradeoffs you are making when you choose a particular tread pattern and tire rating so you can lessen your changes of experiencing head shake.
The cost of decent fresh tires today especially in the smaller sizes is not that high with the price difference for many being what they would spend for lunch at a Burger chain. I know I would rather brown bag my lunch for two days and spend that coin on the better tires. We are all worth more than a couple of Big Macs or Whoppers.
All part of riding safe.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 19, 2016 22:13:51 GMT -5
I use a vacuum bleeder myself and have never had a problem. Some find that if they completely drain the system that they introduce air pockets/bubbles into the system which as you have found are very difficult to get out afterwards. A big mistake that too many make is too vigorously pumping the brake lever or shaking the container of brake fluid which also introduces air into the system and note that this will be a bigger issue if you are using one of the newer full synthetic brake fluid instead of a glycol based DOT3 or DOT4 because while the glycol based fluids are hydroscopic absorbing water the Full Synthetic brake fluids will absorb air causing a spongy or unbled feel with greatly reduced braking.
On technique if your hand pumping the brake, once you get pressure at the brake lever you have to hold it there and then just crack the bleeder open without venting all the pressure or air can find its way back in unless you install directional speed bleeders with check valves and sealing compound already on their treads.
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Post by rockynv on Aug 19, 2016 21:56:26 GMT -5
I am running a Harley style Dunlop on the back and the Power Pure up front. Liked the more heavily chevroned tread patterns in the wet but when your a big body and a bit ham fisted on the brakes those chevrons tend to lean back and feather on the front edge while braking which changes the dynamics of the contact patch and leads to head shake even when not braking making tuning in the correct tire pressure on that style tire very important.
You won't really notice it for a few thousand miles and if you don't adjust the pressure quickly the wear can become deep enough set that you'll have to live with it or replace the tire.
Many go looking for rim, brake, fork of frame issues when its mostly just the result of running the front tire pressure a few psi too low for too long.
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